Fontainebleau

Long story short I'll have a single day to transit from Paris to Fontainebleau and then back and was wondering if it's worth the trip to tackle a few V0 - V2?  I recently broke my ankle so not really wanting to push much but would love to try some French rock.  How hard is it via the train?  How far is the hike in from the station?  Any beta is greatly appreciated.  This is just a novelty side trip since I'll be there on business. 

I spent a couple of weeks there a few years back and had a blast. We rented a gite and had a car, so I can’t speak to the logistical inquiries you have, but I will say that there is every type of boulder at every level and it’s an extraordinary experience. At the time is was around 130 separate areas with other areas still under development. Hopefully you can figure out the public transit stuff, because the climbing is superb. Good luck!

When I lived there I would do the day trip regularly via train (then walk).  Probably my favorite spots were Mont Aigu, west of Fontainebleau, and Rocher Canon, west of Bois Le Roi (which is one train stop before Fontainebleau-Avon).  If I remember right, the walks were not more than 45 minutes, and everything's pretty flat around there.  But the navigation might not be obvious your first time.  Neither of these was a particularly popular area in Bleau, although Rocher Canon was often bustling on nice weekends -- in case you want to meet other climbers.

Fontainebleau is traditionally about the circuits, where you do a lot of easier climbs instead of projecting a hard climb.  You'd probably want an orange circuit. You'll know when you've found one because they paint arrows and route numbers on the rocks.  Bleau.info is a good place for free info since you probably don't want to buy a guidebook: https://bleau.info/map.  

Rocher Canon is your best bet. 30 minute walk from the train at most. Lots of circuits, don't need a pad on the yellow and orange. Get the Fun Bloc guidebook. It  has landmark photos of where to pick up the trail to Rocher Canon from the train station in Bois  Le Roi. If you're in Paris, it's worth a half day trip to boulder in the Magic Forest.

Thank you and looks like I know what I’ll be doing on my off day. 

An alternative would be Le Calvaire.  It is a pleasant 20 minute walk from the Fontainebleau Avon train station.  There are both Yellow and Orange circuits there, with a full day's worth of problems.  Both circuits were freshly painted in 2018.  All the information you need can be found on beau.info.  This is a less known area, so the problems are less polished and feel less sandbagged than at more popular areas.  No need for a guidebook.  The Jingo Wobbly books are excellent, but a bit pricey for only a single day's use.

Depending on weather and your comfort level hitch hiking around Font is pretty reasonable. If you can rent a pad in Paris, rather than font itself for convenience sake. Otherwise it's a 40 minute walk from the train station to the gear shop and then another 20 to a main junction to hitch from. 

A number of years ago I was in the same situation---a day in Paris, without a partner, in early spring---was a trip to Font worth it (especially as I am a very poor and timid boulderer)? The answer was VERY MUCH. The weather on the day was good, so I caught an early train to Bois Le Roi--about an hour train ride. The 'how to get there on foot' directions in the guidebook I had (Fontainbleau Magique, I think) were not very helpful (to put it mildly), so I spent probably over an hour walking on the shoulder of a quite busy road through pretty flat and featureless forest 'plantations' without a sign of any rock. I was about to give up, but decided to check out a couple of slight hills that I saw up ahead before turning around. Fortunately those hills turned out to be the Rocher Canon area and I spent the remainder of the day very happily doing and trying many problems. Sometimes I tried to follow a couple of the easier circuits, other times just got on individual problems.  I mostly bouldered alone--used a small day pack stuffed with clothes as my 'pad'---so largely stuck to easy, low balls-- of which there were many and  a load of fun. Occasionally some of the descents were a bit 'worrisome' but I got down with no ill effects. At one point I did join in with a group of locals with pads in failing on a somewhat harder problem--but that too was more fun than frustrating. Basically I just wandered around trying what looked good to me with no pressure to perform and great enjoyment. I really didn't want to leave but knew I had to catch the train back to the city. Leaving I followed my 'nose' and a series of 'forest roads' (no cars allowed) directly back to the Bois Le Roi train station in about a 1/2 hour. It was a very satisfying and memorable day. Do it!!!!

Oh man!  Font is not to be missed, even for a half day!

I was in Paris in September with the same set up but I sprang for a local guide to take me down and climb for 6 hours.

Unbelievably great.

Whatever you do, make it happen!

From Gare De Lyon take the train to Bois Le Roi. When you exit the train take the underpass to the square. Walk straight. You can only go right or left. Go left to the next street. Take a right. (you'll see a florist and small grocery store.) Walk straight and you cross two streets, I think. Walk to a sign "Le Maison Rocher" which is attached to some stonework of a large house. 

 This is Chemin De Coureurs. Take this road all the way straight to Rocher Canon. You cannot miss it. En route, you will cross three large roads. Just keep going for about 30 -35 minutes. Worth the effort. The yellow and orange circuits will keep you busy. Good luck and enjoy. Let us know how it works out.

Dang.  This was a lot more help than I had hoped for so thank you all   I have a plan now to execute it. 

So helpful for me too! I’m in the same situation - have a day to myself while I’m in Paris and how can I pass up a trip to Fontainebleau?! I would love to have a buddy if anyone wants to go on Monday 1/20.

I'm there the week before or for sure would have met you at the train station.  

Found 10 top tips for Fountainebleau on YouTube and seems to be pretty helpful so will post for others that stumble across this thread.

I hope the yellow vest protests don't screw your plans up. Follow the news before you go if you plan on taking the train. Strikes can pop up at anytime like they did when I was in Paris in October. Good luck . If all goes well it's a great day at Rocher Canon.

You gotta love the French.  Fingers crossed I don't get stuck in the apt and can travel home.

Several major unions are involved in the strikes, affecting public administration, health and education services. The government has promised to streamline the country's pension system, but this has not appeased the unions. Renewed talks between unions and the government will be held in early January 2020. Demonstrations are liable to continue until the government retracts the proposed reforms. The police are likely to use tough measures in the event of unrest, posing incidental risks to bystanders. While major nationwide protests are planned, small-scale gatherings take place daily in major urban centres.
As of 31 December, disruption to national rail services persist, with half of TGV and TER services, one in five Intercites and one in four Transilien services expected to operate. International rail service Eurostar is running mostly as normal. However, operations of Thalys trains to Switzerland, Germany, Spain and Italy have been affected. The work stoppages have also impacted public transport, including in the capital Paris. Significant congestion can be expected, particularly during rush hour, throughout the Paris region.
An aviation sector strike is planned for 3 January 2020. Airports likely to be affected include Paris’ Beauvais (BVA), Charles de Gaulle (CDG) and Orly (ORY), as well as Bordeaux-Merignac (BOD, Nouvelle-Aquitanie region), Lyon-Saint Exupery (LYS, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes region), Marseille Provence (MRS, Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur region) and Toulouse-Blagnac (TLS, Occitanie region).

Yeah, if the French are really good at something then it is going on strike.

(roll eying northern European guy)

Just back from the bouldering gym in Paris.  

The beta above was perfect but the weather not so much.  I mean between the union strikes and the weather I was amazed I was able to make there and get a few tries in.  Very much worth the train ride down just to see the place.  Below is a picture of the turn to the road you walk down for about 30 minutes.  This would have been the only really hard part to sort but lucky for me I met a local on the platform before we left Gare De Lyon.

The Metro is only running at half speed for part of the day (06:30 - 09:30 & 16:00 - 19:00) so just getting to the Gare De Lyon had to be done at certain times.  Then SNCF was only running like four out of nine trains so I got lucky on the way down and back.  I was standing on the platform when I saw someone with a crash pad and started a conversation hoping he spoke English which he did so I tagged along with him to the crag.  It was misting most of the way down but by the time we go there it was full on raining.  We tried a few of the overhanging routes but it was just too sloppy to have fun.  We grabbed lunch at a cafe in town and jumped on the first train headed back to town.

He was going to the Arkose Nation bouldering gym so I just followed him and hit some plastic. It was a great day and met a really cool fellow climber.  All-in-all it turned out way better than I expected and I'll be back next month and maybe try again.

Thank you to everyone that posted.

I ended up hiring a guide on Airbnb experiences. She took me to Isatis, which was a pretty cool spot. I just wanted to do fun easy stuff but she kept pushing me to try 6a+ and it was a bit frustrating. After our time was up I asked her to drop me off at Rocher Canon and that was amazing. I used this photo of a map from my guide’s guidebook to make my way through the area. The boulders there are densely packed so it’s easy to bounce through the circuits. I just did the yellow stuff with no pad, then walked to the train station after a couple of hours. This place was so beautiful, I feel so lucky to have had the chance to go!

Lauri Johnston wrote: I ended up hiring a guide on Airbnb experiences. She took me to Isatis, which was a pretty cool spot. I just wanted to do fun easy stuff but she kept pushing me to try 6a+ and it was a bit frustrating. After our time was up I asked her to drop me off at Rocher Canon and that was amazing. I used this photo of a map from my guide’s guidebook to make my way through the area. The boulders there are densely packed so it’s easy to bounce through the circuits. I just did the yellow stuff with no pad, then walked to the train station after a couple of hours. This place was so beautiful, I feel so lucky to have had the chance to go!

Wasn't that a great circuit? I always hit RC when I'm there. Lots of fun . Really glad you had a great time.

Lauri Johnston wrote: I ended up hiring a guide on Airbnb experiences. She took me to Isatis, which was a pretty cool spot. I just wanted to do fun easy stuff but she kept pushing me to try 6a+ and it was a bit frustrating. After our time was up I asked her to drop me off at Rocher Canon and that was amazing. I used this photo of a map from my guide’s guidebook to make my way through the area. The boulders there are densely packed so it’s easy to bounce through the circuits. I just did the yellow stuff with no pad, then walked to the train station after a couple of hours. This place was so beautiful, I feel so lucky to have had the chance to go!

Sorry to hear about the guide experience, that's not cool of your guide.

But glad that you salvaged a great time afterwards.

If you go back, I have just the most excellent guide that I can recommend for you.  He lives in Paris, gave me a ride down and back and totally listened to what I wanted and brought me right to it.

Cheers!