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Josh
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Dec 18, 2019
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 1,315
Come answer the siren call of that perennial topic of wishful alpinist thinking: the lightweight, efficient snow flotation solution for the approach. Before we rehash old territory: -- skis are more efficient and more fun than snowshoes -- splitboards are fun and work well with mountaineering boots, if you know how to ride them -- AT gear is so light these days that they trump most other set ups -- skiing in mountaineering boots sucks
I'm aware that some people have found their happy-place solution (usually the one that balances the specific needs of their region's terrain and snowpack, as well as their personal level of comfort with skiing), and I am generally sold that in most situations, carrying your climbing boots on your back and skiing/boarding in and out is the way to go (faster, more fun).
However, there is one kind of situation I am still trying to hit the sweet spot for: snowy and steep-ish approaches to ice/alpine routes where you will not return to the base (e.g. an up-and-over route, or a ring-traverse of a cirque, etc.). What to do if you are going to have to carry everything you brought in on your back while you climb? Who wants big snowshoe decks or even short approach skis (like Altai Hoks) on their back while doing 5th class moves on steep terrain?
In that vein, I just ran across these: https://smallfoot.eu/small-foot-alpine/
Company out of Bulgaria. An inflatable snowshoe that, in the case of this particular model, doesn't include its own crampon, so you can use the ones you're carrying for the climb anyway. Total weight = 28 oz. / pair. Fits in a stuffsack smaller than a Nalgene. (note that these use a Schrader valve, so you would have to carry a small pump with you to inflate-- looks to be a bike-style mini pump, which are generally the size of a Mini-mag light and very light)
Anyone have experience with something like this?
Looks like Yukon Charlie also makes an inflatable "emergency" snowshoe stateside that looks similar but has its own (minimalist) crampon built in. There was also a collapsible snowshoe design a few years ago (SnowXu) which is now discontinued and sounds like it wasn't very strong or stable to begin with. Finally, Salomon used to make (maybe still does) a snowshoe deck with no crampon so you could wear your alpine/ice crampons, but the decks were still full-size, non-collapsible plastic.
I wonder if these things work and would hold up.
Here's a GearJunkie review: https://gearjunkie.com/small-foot-revolution-inflatable-snowshoes-review Here's a Trek-Lite review: http://www.trek-lite.com/index.php?threads/smallfoot-inflatable-snowshoes.6266/ Here's a Geartestathon review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dKggSccZ4A (with some abuse of the product-- thorns, crampon points, fire)
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curt86iroc
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Dec 18, 2019
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 274
Josh - what are the chances you actually need snowshoes for the routes you are considering? can you give some specific examples? in a lot of instances, planning and time of year can negate the need for flotation...
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Buck Rio
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Dec 18, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
OUCH, my inner thighs hurt just looking at those things. You would literally wreck your hips trying to walk in these monstrosities.
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Josh
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Dec 18, 2019
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 1,315
curt86iroc wrote: Josh - what are the chances you actually need snowshoes for the routes you are considering? can you give some specific examples? in a lot of instances, planning and time of year can negate the need for flotation... I quite agree. I would very rarely need snowshoes, at least for most objectives near home (Front Range). This was mostly an interesting what-if exercise, but I had been thinking of routes like this one: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105747538/northwest-face-route-thatchtop-or-northeast-gully This wouldn't truly require and up-and-over, but coming down the east ridge of Thatchtop and then returning home via the Glacier Gorge trail might be a logical way to complete this.
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Stiles
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Dec 19, 2019
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the Mountains
· Joined May 2003
· Points: 845
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Jeremy Cote
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Dec 19, 2019
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White Mountains NH
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
A good compromise is to get some running snowshoes. Flotation will suffer, especially if you are bigger, but they are light and will get the job done if the snow isn't complete fluff. The only issue is that I havent seen a pair with heel risers. You could also look into a pair of Northern Lights.
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Mark Pilate
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Dec 19, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 25
Agree with Buck on those inflatables. While I have no experience with em, they Look more suited to whitewater rafting than steep approaches.
I have spent considerable time mulling over this exact question. Even designed my own “Swiss Army knife” snowshoe for mountaineering purposes (breaks down into picket, shovel, and fluke).
I did Jeremy’s suggestion once on an early season attempt on Liberty Ridge. Modified em to work with my normal crampons. Adequate, but it was that trip that I determined I’d never use snowshoes again -ever.
In my book, I personally came to the conclusion that there is always some version of ski solution that in terms of totality of cost/benefit analysis of approach-climb- descent- slog out, just about always outweighs snowshoes.
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Gunkiemike
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Dec 19, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,687
Mark Pilate wrote: In my book, I personally came to the conclusion that there is always some version of ski solution that in terms of totality of cost/benefit analysis of approach-climb- descent- slog out, just about always outweighs snowshoes. Sure, but OP is looking at up-and-over routes. You really want to ice climb with skis on your back??
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Andrew McMillan 1
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Dec 19, 2019
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Mar 2015
· Points: 0
Look up Verts. Jeremy Jones uses to boot up snowy couloirs
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Mark Pilate
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Dec 19, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 25
Mike - Understood. I do mean for majority of up and over routes. I’m suggesting in consideration of the totality of the car to car effort/enjoyability...even for most up and over routes.
Climbing with either skis or snowshoes sucks, and if the route involves much chimney/chockstone negotiation it’ll affect your decision. Can always Consider separate hauling of pack/skis or snowshoes. The ultimate difference between Climbing with either short skis or snowshoes on your back is minimal, but at the end of climbing and on the return, the “fuck yeah!” Feeling of having the skis makes any struggle seem minor in comparison. Plus, most importantly, your Instagram climbing photos look way way better with skis strapped to your pack.... drop the mic
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Buck Rio
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Dec 19, 2019
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MN
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 16
Mark Pilate wrote: Agree with Buck on those inflatables. While I have no experience with em, they Look more suited to whitewater rafting than steep approaches.
I have spent considerable time mulling over this exact question. Even designed my own “Swiss Army knife” snowshoe for mountaineering purposes (breaks down into picket, shovel, and fluke).
I did Jeremy’s suggestion once on an early season attempt on Liberty Ridge. Modified em to work with my normal crampons. Adequate, but it was that trip that I determined I’d never use snowshoes again -ever.
In my book, I personally came to the conclusion that there is always some version of ski solution that in terms of totality of cost/benefit analysis of approach-climb- descent- slog out, just about always outweighs snowshoes. If you are going up a frozen river covered in snow to get to a frozen waterfall, rock skis are the way to go. Caribou and Manitou come to mind.
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Fabien M
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Dec 19, 2019
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Cannes
· Joined Dec 2019
· Points: 5
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Jason4Too
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Dec 26, 2019
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Bellingham, Washington
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 0
If you're thinking about Snowplak then you should also consider Billy Goat Tech. I've looked at these to use in combination with a split board for the same times that Verts might help when you go straight up a soft chute.
https://billygoattech.com
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i shore
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Dec 27, 2019
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London
· Joined May 2018
· Points: 0
I have some French raquettes from years back. T section alloy rim in form of long egg shape 8.5 x 16.5", the vertical part of T sank into quite hard surfaces and good for slopes (in Pyrenees local guides cut teeth into them). Platform was interlocking webbing with simple foot strap system and useable with a variety of footwear. About 750g a pair. Simple to use and versatile, could kick steps in snow. They look bigger than the Snowplak items and might be better in some snow conditions. Not suggesting they are still obtainable but you might decide to look around for something slightly larger if choosing raquettes.
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Terry E
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Dec 27, 2019
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San Francisco, CA
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 43
Jason4Too wrote: If you're thinking about Snowplak then you should also consider Billy Goat Tech. I've looked at these to use in combination with a split board for the same times that Verts might help when you go straight up a soft chute.
https://billygoattech.com
Billy Goat Plates work great for steep slopes/couloirs, and are much safer than Verts, as they employ a crampon. Verts are sketchy on ice and hard snow.
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Bogdan Petre
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May 8, 2021
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West Lebanon, NH
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 1,162
If a route's too hard to ski carry, but you can't get to the route without skiing in and out, then you simply need two pairs of skis. Stash one ahead of time at the descent, do the approach on the second pair, ditch those at the base of the route. Climb your route, collect your stashed skis and leave. Return to collect pair you ditched at the base of the route at your convenience.
It's a goat wolf and cabbage problem. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolf,_goat_and_cabbage_problem
Those snowshoes are funny. They would be the death of me. There are plenty of uses for snowshoes though. Mainly when it turns out that money is, in fact, finite. Also, really bad bushwhacks. The kind that mug you. Where you come out battered and with several pieces of gear missing.
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