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Trick to prevent dropping cams

Original Post
chris b · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 11

does anybody else use lockers to rack your cams so you don't drop them while climbing?? when you rack up for the pitch, just remember to check all of them are fully locked. when black totems are like $115 a pop, i want to make sure they stay safely on my harness.

for anybody else that does this, do you prefer screw locks or double/triple action lockers?? thanks

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Oh yeah. I do that too.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,787

Bahahaha!! 

Used 2climb · · Far North · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 0

Wait.... You lock them to your harness??? How do you get them off while climbing? Is this for like 5.7 climbs? I feel like when I am scared and trying to get pro in I don't need to be unscrewing a locker... 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

No, I don’t. And won’t.

Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10

Quick Links, a pair, with openings reversed. Go light on the Loctite.

Edit--- After reading other posts, I realize I have been doing it wrong all these years. The quick link openings should be both opposite AND opposed, screw down so you don't---.

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

Sure....Do that on every route when your completely pumped out, ran out and trying to find the perfect spot for pro. Unscrewing a locker seems efficient to me.....

Alex Wright · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 55

lol hope this is a joke. 

Corey Bringas · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 65

I usually put two non lockers opposite & opposing. That way you are backed up. If it’s a really expensive cam I’ll clove hitch it into my harness. You really don’t want to drop those things! Now if it’s tricams you want to use a locker backed up with an oval. Never can be too careful. Lastly you’re going to want to have all your alpines over your shoulder, but use a locker to keep them together so they don’t separate. I also prefer to keep a tag line with a single rack tied on incase any of the above fails.

walmongr · · Gilbert AZ · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 151

I prefer one screw gate and one auto lock opposed gates.. auto lock is just in case the screw gate gets unscrewed... you can never be to cautious!!! 

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,739

Screw locks can come undone, and double/triple action lockers don't always lock (they can get hung up without locking). I prefer Grivel twin-gate carabiners. Impossible for forget to lock, and totally bomber!

Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10
Jeremy R wrote: Do you guys seriously use lockers? Seems overkill, I just rack each piece with a pre-tied quad attached to each cam.

Does anyone make a permanently bar tacked Quad? Maybe with captive Biners already attached?

(This probably needs its own thread)
Stephen L · · South + Van · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 166

Seriously?! C’mon the auto lockers are overkill...

Rack cams with one large HMS screw gate locker and a small tab of climbing tape to prevent the gate of opening. When it’s time to protect, just remove the small piece of tape, place, and go!

Small wire nuts on two oval lockers, gates opposing and keep the screw gate tight. No, they’re not as expensive as cams but when you really need them, they’re crucial. Not worth dropping them during runout incipient crack Crux.

Alex R · · Golden · Joined May 2015 · Points: 228

Does anyone else use epoxy to secure nuts in fiddly placements? I was really surprised when my new climbing partner reached me at the top of a pitch and hadn't cleaned any of my nut placements. Apparently he hadn't brought any high strength solvent with him! He is trying to claim that this isn't common practice and he shouldn't have to replace my gear. Can you guys back me up? He should know better and face the consequence of his noob mistake.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Zip ties work better.

Irreverent Bastard · · Rexburg · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 269
Eli 0 · · northeast · Joined May 2016 · Points: 5

Wow you guys seriously use triple-action autolockers for racking cams?

I would never climb with anything less than quadruple-action, like DMM Durolock:

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

I once knew a guy that had lockers on all of his quickdraws. As he would lead the perilous slab routes of Red Rocks Open Space, he would clip the rope into the locker and screw the gate collar down. 

David Bruneau · · St. John · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 2,650

Personally, I've found that individual lanyards on all my cams works a little better, in case I drop a cam after taking it off my harness.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363
Tim Stich wrote: I once knew a guy that had lockers on all of his quickdraws. As he would lead the perilous slab routes of Red Rocks Open Space, he would clip the rope into the locker and screw the gate collar down. 

I put a locker on crux pieces sometimes.   I’ve seen the rope unclip from the biner on long falls so I’ll occasionally use a locker on the rope side especially if I’m looking at a ledge fall if the rope unclips.   Or I’ll throw another biner on the rope side and oppose the gates if I can.  

Christopher Chu · · CA and NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40

you all are forgetting the weakest point, which is the harness gear loop.  if that gets cut, you lose the whole rack.  make sure to weld steel bars onto your steel harness so there's no chance of it coming apart.  just watch out for microfractures...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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