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Mark Straub
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Dec 16, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 245
I’m looking to buy a pair of sport/bouldering shoes for my low volume foot, which is narrow in general but especially in the heel. I cup out of nearly every climbing shoe I’ve tried when I heel hook. I’m currently using women’s Katanas, but I’m wondering if there’s something even more narrow in the heel. I’ve heard good things about the women’s Katakis and Solutions. Any other suggestions? I’m open to any brand.
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bagel bagels
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Dec 16, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2019
· Points: 0
Women’s hi-angle, women’s solution, maverinks
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Z D
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Dec 16, 2019
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Salt Lake City
· Joined Feb 2011
· Points: 185
Def not Kataki, pretty wide heel, narrow forefoot on that one. S Heel is not narrow.
Solutions are also not a very good choice, very deep and voluminous heel. The new Theory will probably be very nice when it comes out, Miura women's, some Tenaya models (Mundaka/Oasi LV) come to mind.
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Justin Butler
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Dec 16, 2019
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Murrieta
· Joined Apr 2019
· Points: 261
I have a medium volume toe, but a narrow heal. Pretty much every shoe I've ever owned has had deadspace in the heal. Recently I bought some Women's Anasazi Pro LV's. Absolutely no deadspace at all in those.
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Ted Pinson
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Dec 16, 2019
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Five Ten will be your friend. They tend to run very narrow overall, although their toe boxes tend to be fairly blunt which supports a Roman foot. La Sportiva will not be your friend; they tend to run super wide, especially in the heel/ankle area. I had to downsize like crazy to eliminate dead space in Solutions, and while it can be done (they’re fairly soft), I had toes crossing over each other. Try HiAngles, Teams, or Dragons depending on your stiffness/aggressiveness preference.
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Mark Straub
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Dec 17, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 245
Ted Pinson wrote: Five Ten will be your friend. They tend to run very narrow overall, although their toe boxes tend to be fairly blunt which supports a Roman foot. La Sportiva will not be your friend; they tend to run super wide, especially in the heel/ankle area. I had to downsize like crazy to eliminate dead space in Solutions, and while it can be done (they’re fairly soft), I had toes crossing over each other. Try HiAngles, Teams, or Dragons depending on your stiffness/aggressiveness preference. I think the tough thing for me is the fact that I have a much wider forefoot than heel, and it’s asymmetric as well. La Sportiva shoes fit me much better than the Five Tens that I’ve tried in the toebox, I do pretty well with men’s Miuras for example. I’ll check out the Hi Angles if I can find them, Teams don’t fit my toes quite right. Multiple people have mentioned Tenaya shoes. I don’t see them often, but I’ll keep an eye out.
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Mark Paulson
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Dec 17, 2019
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 141
I have a similar issue to you, in that I always seem to have a little to a lot of dead space in the heel of whatever shoe I'm wearing. 5.10 heels feel like a bad joke. I've tried on pretty much everything on the market, and have found that the Evolv Oracle fits my heel better than anything else I've tried (though I don't love the toe). It's pretty narrow, not too deep, and has a "midsole" insert that keeps it stiff. That being said, of all the shoes I've ever worn, the Acopa Merlin had the least dead-space. They've been unavailable for years, but that's about to change in January.
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Alex Holmann
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Dec 17, 2019
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Jan 2019
· Points: 113
I have pretty narrow feet and heels and the women’s solutions have been the first shoe that I have found that actually fits my heel well.
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Andrew Reed
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Dec 17, 2019
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Cañon City, CO
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 56
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Mark Paulson
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Dec 17, 2019
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 141
Artem Vasilyev wrote: Butora has ridiculously small heels on their shoes. Much smaller than anything else on the market Small, maybe, but the overtensioned slingshot rand guarantees a ton of dead space at the point of the heel... 5.10 does the same thing..
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Doug Chism
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Dec 17, 2019
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Arlington VA
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 55
Mark Paulson wrote: Small, maybe, but the overtensioned slingshot rand guarantees a ton of dead space at the point of the heel... 5.10 does the same thing.. The new Acro Comp and Gomi ( which I own ) have a new heel design. I tried the original Acro and it absolutely crushed my Achilles, could not wear it more than 30 seconds. I tried the Gomi and its perfect, snug but not painful in the least.
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Ted Pinson
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Dec 17, 2019
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Mark Straub wrote: I think the tough thing for me is the fact that I have a much wider forefoot than heel, and it’s asymmetric as well. La Sportiva shoes fit me much better than the Five Tens that I’ve tried in the toebox, I do pretty well with men’s Miuras for example. I’ll check out the Hi Angles if I can find them, Teams don’t fit my toes quite right. Multiple people have mentioned Tenaya shoes. I don’t see them often, but I’ll keep an eye out. Yeah, I’m the same - wide forefoot, narrow heels. If by “asymmetric” you mean your big toe is significantly longer than the rest, then La Sportiva will work well. For me (Roman foot - 2nd and 3rd toes are as long/longer) I always end up with dead space and pockets (especially in the ankles) OR super crammed toes. Miuras fit me ok for edging since I don’t really care about dead space in the ankles for that and the slingshot keeps my heel on, but for technical heel hooks it’s annoying. FWIW Anasazis fit me perfectly, although I like the narrower heel in the Pink better than the Tan. The old Dragon heel was perfect...
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Andre Chiang
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Dec 17, 2019
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Durham
· Joined Mar 2019
· Points: 95
I found that the scarpa vapor lace has a pretty snug heel cup l was able to throw a heel in the pretty shitty holds
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