Wrong Specifications From BackcountryGear Regarding Powers Wedge

backcountrygear.com/climbin…

States that the 3/8" should be torqued to 12 FT-LB, but that is the torque for 5 piece, Powers wedge should be torqued to 28 FT-LB according to the specs.  

Also, can someone explain to me why the description says "zinc plated carbon steel body" but it is sold as 304 SS in the title?

I would also add that for that price you could get the bolt products wedge instead. It's a far superior bolt and it's marine grade stainless as well.

nbrown wrote: I would also add that for that price you could get the bolt products wedge instead. It's a far superior bolt and it's marine grade stainless as well.

Just looked them up, thanks for the suggestion.

ClimbBaja wrote: Yes, you've discovered multiple errors. Perhaps you could inform Backcountry Gear.  

I will.

Interestingly, I found this same thing and told them about it yesterday, before seeing this.  They listed the torque specs for the powerbolt on the page for the powerstud.

I wouldn’t recommend 5 piece powers. I bought a batch a few years ago and they were very poorly made and often failed when installing.  50% spinners

SmithVentures wrote: I wouldn’t recommend 5 piece powers. I bought a batch a few years ago and they were very poorly made and often failed when installing.  50% spinners

I've heard the hole has to be perfect.  If the wedge at the bottom doesnt lock against the walls of the hole, it will spin, preventing you from tightening the bolt or threading it.  I have no experience placing them though.  

A disadvantage with this style bolt is the expansion is generated by compressing the sleeve between the wedge and head of the bolt.  If the bolt comes loose, there is no compression, and bolt is compromised.  A stud however, maintains the same pull-out resistance as when it was tight.

Larry S wrote: A disadvantage with this style bolt is the expansion is generated by compressing the sleeve between the wedge and head of the bolt.  If the bolt comes loose, there is no compression, and bolt is compromised.  A stud however, maintains the same pull-out resistance as when it was tight.

Thread drift but....This is only true for "removable bolts" such as the Fixe triplex or Climbtech legacy bolts. A standard 5-piece from Powers is self engaging similar to a wedge bolt.

SmithVentures wrote: I wouldn’t recommend 5 piece powers. I bought a batch a few years ago and they were very poorly made and often failed when installing.  50% spinners

What would you recommend then? Powers 5-piece are pretty legit and used everywhere. Were you in super soft rock? Was the cone taped in place and/or partially engage as seen in the handy pic below?

Edit: I guess what do you mean by spinners. When I think of "spinners" Ithink of hangers that are spinning because the bolt has loosened up. But as far as a spinner while installing, I assume you mean it would just spin and not tighten? 

I believe spinner is referring to when the cone and the sleeve spin together, so it doesn't engage any expansion action.

SmithVentures wrote: I wouldn’t recommend 5 piece powers. I bought a batch a few years ago and they were very poorly made and often failed when installing.  50% spinners

When this happens I tap the bolt head lightly with a hammer in between tightening with the wrench until it catches. Can also just pull down on the hanger with a draw to keep the cone against the wall inside the hole. Annoying, and haven't had the issue with other sleeves, but not that hard to manage.

Also here to say that despite occasionally wrong descriptions (although same stuff is true on the Fixe website) I have had good experiences with backcountrygear and with their customer service.