Help me find short story about mountain climbing

Hi.

This is a long shot, but many years ago (before I was a climber), I read an interesting story about mountain climbing, and I've always wanted to try to find it (now that climbing is part of my life).

The story was in a collection.  It was probably written in the early to mid 20th century, but I'm not sure.  I think the author was German or Austrian, and I read it in English translation, but again I'm not sure.  I feel like it was set in the European Alps.

The story describes a man who dreams of climbing a mountain.  He dreams, trains, and prepares, dreams, trains, and prepares, for a long time, perhaps many years.  Finally he feels ready.  He completes his training and preparation, makes his way to the mountain, and, the night before, while sleeping, dreams again of his goal.  

When he wakes up, he realizes that the actual climb will never live up to his dreams.  He has already climbed the mountain, an infinite number of times, and an infinite number of ways, in his mind.  

The man is satisfied, and he returns to his normal life.

That's the story.

Any ideas?  If I could find this I would be so excited!

Bruno

Geez sounds like he gave up early to me. 

The American Alpine Club Library might be able to help you: https://americanalpineclub.org/library

They are an excellent resource for tracking down answers in the realm of mountaineering history and literature.

Perhaps relevant StackExchange question?

https://scifi.stackexchange.com/questions/146791/old-short-story-about-climbing-the-toughest-mountain-in-the-known-universe

Bruno, I just woke up thinking of this very story! You describe it perfectly. Brilliantly written. Alas, the title itself eludes me, too. 

I FOUND IT!!!!! The Schreuderspitze!

Jennifer Domani wrote:

I FOUND IT!!!!! The Schreuderspitze!

A helpful bot? Or did a human really join the forum just to post the answer to this question?

She's no bot!!!  Jennfer Domani wins the prize!  That's the story.  I subscribed to the digital version of the New Yorker to read the story (for a second time...after so many years).  If I can find a way to digitize it, I'll try to share. Thanks again everybody, and a special thanks to Jennifer.  Bruno.

Wait.  I want to better understand just what the fuck happened here.  
you’re telling me that Jennifer, out of the blue, just woke up one morning with a wild “Schreuderspitze” up her ass and joined MP for one day only to answer your obscurest of questions?   There has to be more to this.  

Mark, I can't explain it either, but it's true.  My guess is that Jennifer is a consistent reader and browser, who never saw the need to comment, until inspired by this post.  Whence she made an account and joined, providing the kind of specific, improbable information that proves the worth of the internet.  Thanks again Jennifer!  I hadn't remembered the story perfectly; the main character is a German climbing and dreaming in the Austrian Alps, but it's written by a rather well-known American writer, Mark Helprin.  

It was first published in The New Yorker in 1977.  If you buy a digital subscription, you can read the original.  Here is a link with a short synopsis. 

https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1977/01/10/the-schreuderspitze

It was later published in a collection of short stories entitled, Ellis Island.  Here is an Amazon link where you can buy the book.  

https://www.amazon.com/Ellis-Island-Other-Stories-Helprin-ebook/dp/B07263JL86/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=mark+helprin+the+schreuderspitze&qid=1602428150&sr=8-1

I don't know where I originally read it; considering I was only 5 when it was first published, it is unlikely but possible that I read it in an old copy of the The New Yorker.  More likely, I read it in a collection, either Ellis Island or another.  I know Helprin edited some short story collections, and he may have included his own work.  

Anyway, I'm already a subscriber to The New Yorker, so I can read the original, but I also bought a copy of the book.  The other stories seem interesting too.  

So this is a story with a good ending--these moments restore my faith that perhaps the internet has some positive sides. 

All the best, 

Bruno

Ok now please help me find this one.  It was about an Everest summit attempt by a young climber w/o much experience - Matt?  and an experienced English climber, Alan, and two sherpas.  When their morning came Alan was dragging a bit from the start.  He asked Matt to turn his oxygen up to 4 clicks at a rest stop.  But he kept taking longer and longer to catch up and forgot to ask Matt to drop it back down to 2 clicks.  Finally at a rest Matt and the sherpas could see the summit.  But they waited the usual N seconds and then 2N or whatever and still no Alan then they looked at each other, looked down the trail, looked at each other, shrugged, and wordlessly started for the summit, and that's where the story ends.  Leaving one to conclude that a)they made it and b)Alan was never seen again.  Er, ..I guess.

^ Al Burgess?