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Skiing/climbing Katahdin in winter - need beta on “the chimney”

Original Post
Beau Gard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

Hey all, I’m looking for some beta on climbing katahdin in the winter. I’ve read a bunch of posts online which have been helpful but I’m hoping someone on here will have some more updated route info to share. I want to do “the chimney” route from chimney pond to ~pamola peak and the take knifes edge to the summit. I’ve read that the chimney is an 5.4 scramble in the summer and that in the winter it can be climbed without a rope or ice tools as long as you have climbing experience and some crampons and an ice axe. I’m curious, has anyone done this recently or with skis on their back? My group is proficient at rock climbing and experienced with the katahdin area. But, we do not have ice climbing experience and having skis on our bags will add to the challenge of the climb. So, is this an easy scramble for an ice climber? Or is it just an easy scramble for anyone? Is it mostly high angle snow travel or will there be cruxes (at the chockstones for those familiar) that can’t be done with skis with us? Should we bring ropes for hauling our gear? The pictures I’ve found of the chimney don’t look to bad but I don’t want to get halfway up and realize that we can’t get through a certain area. Any opinions/beta would be appreciated! 

Matty B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 90

Hey Beau, It really boils down to what the snow conditions are while you're there. A few years ago we went up the Chimney in very lean snow conditions. We used a rope to negotiate the chockstones. It was easy mixed climbing at about 5.7. Later that same season, after climbing Cilley-Barber, we walked down the Chimney - as it was full of snow. Last year I short-roped two friends up the Chimney, when there was so much snow it was as if the chockstone and cave didn't exist. Not sure if that helps you, but I assume you see what I'm saying?

Beau Gard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

That’s exactly what I was looking for! I’ve been planning on approaching this trip with a very weather dependent state of mind. So it sounds like the amount of snow will determine if this is technical or more of a scramble? Very good to know. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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