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Cheap Approach Ski Setup Options

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,550
Taylor Krosbakken wrote: It just seems silly to carry my boots.

What if people make fun of me.....

I would like a bit wider skis though. 

Most of the pics I've seen of ice climbers approaching routes in Europe on skis have their ice boots in their packs, makes for dry boots when you get to the ice as well as better control skiing.  I've got both Alpine Touring or X-C/Backcountry ski setup depending on the terrain.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,419

These look interesting...

http://www.mtnapproach.com/index.php

I have an older pair of Silvretta 300's and a BD cross country ski.  Works ok.  I use climbing skins.

Another thing I've thought about doing is get a toe kit and add them to my climbing boots.  Something along these lines:

https://casttouring.com/en-us/products/boot-conversion/

My guess is there's a cheap way to do this...then all you'd need is an old tech pin front binding.

Maybe buy an old, beat Dynafit boot and hog out the toe insert?  Use a dremel tool and create the space.  Reglue the sole on the boot.

Kinda wondering if the right screw in the toe of a boot would have enough space in the allen wrench hole to work with a tech binding.  Might be enough to get by?

These look interesting:

https://www.skiequipmentuk.co.uk/product/spares/ski-boot-heels-and-toes/salomon-ski-boot-heels-and-toes/salomon-touring-pads-with-low-tech-inserts-for-qst-ski-boots/

Matt Hearley · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Not on the cheap side, but arguably the best ski to mount silveretta's on, especially in the 159 length. Glides great on the flats without skins, and crushes uphill with skins. Reasonable downhill performance in mountain boots, but still survival skiing. 

https://www.fischersports.com/us_en/s-bound-112-crown/skin-335?c=5372

Matt Murphy · · Pearl River, NY · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 215
Taylor Krosbakken wrote:

I don't think the BD glidlite or any "universal" binding will work with mountaineering boots because the boot needs to flex at the ball of the foot. 

That’s what Nils will say from Altai skis.  However, I’ve used the universal binding on my Altai Hoks for three years now with full shank ice boots and have never had a problem.   In fact I have a second set of Altai Hoks 145cm I could part with if you’re interested. 

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2


start watching at minute 2 for cheap and effective ice climbing approach setup. 
Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Hey Taylor,
You’re likely looking for the same unicorn I’ve been chasing for decades.  You wanna ski descend the awesome north shore rivers and hit the ice in the canyons as well.  You’re looking for the One boot to bind them all...(apologies to Sauron).   Carrying your mountaineering boots is definitely the very last resort.  Full blown AT and BC NNN are options but are at minimum 4 sigma from the ideal. As are the Silvretta’s or Altai.  Believe me. I have em all.  Best option is to search for an old set of these Voile bindings - the only known unicorn to have existed (see pic) or make/modify your own from crampon bails and telemark binding parts (all available cheap or free)
If you make your own, keep the pivot point at the same place as the Voile bindings shown (Mounted on Fischer S-bounds)

Once you have your own unicorn set up, you can ride it to skiing/climbing nirvana.   See ya out there.

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

My unicorn. Fritschi Eagles, Rossignol BC 110's

Jeff Bone makes a legit point: if you get heel lift in your mountaineering boots, I'd imagine that would be a deal breaker. However, I don't get any heel lift problems. I've skied a lot of downhill and xc over the years and this rig is quite fast, comfortable and easy to get around on moderate terrain. I can't imagine anything that would even compare for a quick approach ski. They kick and glide just like xc with more stability. I've never snowshoed but I will dismiss that option out of hand, along with carrying another set of boots for miles.

It's funny to me that when someone asks about approach skis and specifically says that they are not doing backcountry downhill skiing, the first objection people make is that they're not good for downhill skiing. Lolz. I use these just for approaches to backcountry climbing objectives and though I've never really tried them downhill, I intend to mess around with it just to check it out, fully expecting it to be survival skiing. But just as a disclaimer: I'm not even interested in the sport of backcountry downhill skiing per se. I wouldn't do it with a good set-up; it's just not my thing. YMMV

Wayd Walker · · Three Forks · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 0
Taylor Krosbakken wrote:

I don't think the BD glidlite or any "universal" binding will work with mountaineering boots because the boot needs to flex at the ball of the foot. 

The BD glidlites work with climbing boots.  I leave the toe strap fairly loose.

Taylor Krosbakken · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 1,086
Wayd Walker wrote:

The BD glidlites work with climbing boots.  I leave the toe strap fairly loose.

This is good to know! and thanks everyone else for your input. Lots of good stuff!

Rob Blakemore · · Boston, MA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 270

Mark Pilate, holy heck I think you have the thing I always hoped exists. Do you have any idea what those are called?

I had asked about binding adapters for mountaineering boots and got some interesting links in the responses (previous thread: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116074535/cross-country-or-dynafittech-binding-adapter-for-mountaineering-boots). Including somebody who modified a spantik to include a tech fitting in the toe (similar to the current commercially available version of the olympic mons).

Some other links I found interesting:
Jon Griffith on Hagan Extreme approach skis for UK Climbing: Link
Colin Haley Ski notes on Cascade Climbers: Link,
and kit description for Petzl: Link
Andy Kirkpatrick Article: Link

Bryan LaRue · · Munising, MI · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 50

Im selling my setup. I'm located in Munising MI
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118154038/fs-ice-climbing-aproach-ski-atomic-tm22-w-fritschi-ft-88s-local-pickup-in-mi

MP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2

God, it hurts me so bad every time I see people extolling the virtues of bindings that weigh more than dynafit bindings and ski boots combined....

Ron C · · Reno, NV · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 36
mpech wrote:

start watching at minute 2 for cheap and effective ice climbing approach setup. 

Wow - this is an oldie ---knickers and knuckle busters and dachstein mitts.  Looks like a fun climb.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
mpech wrote: God, it hurts me so bad every time I see people extolling the virtues of bindings that weigh more than dynafit bindings and ski boots combined....

Whaaaat?  After posting that ancient video you’re now extolling the virtues of light weight?  Haha. 

And yes, there are virtues to these setups.  They’re chosen EXACTLY for the lightest weight and best performance for the purpose - skiing up and down mostly mild slopes 35 degrees and less and difficult terrain like frozen river cascades and waterfalls on way to, from, and between climbs in cold weather.   
  • I’d laugh at you whimpering and cussing putting your feet into frozen climbing boots you carried on your back on a minus 10 degree day after a 7 mile ski.  
  • I’d laugh at you and be up and down the climb and pass you still slogging in, on MY way out if you tried to keep pace in AT gear. 
  • I’d laugh at you crappie flopping in a yard sale of climbing gear all over the snow or worse, in the water, as your light weight XC gear couldn’t provide the technical downhill power and either flat out broke or dumped you.  
  • And then I’d laugh as your girlfriend gave me her number while you got back into your bindings and looked for your mittens. 

  • But....I’d be laughing WITH you not at you.  I swear 
Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460

Hurts me seeing folks try to climb in AT boots or hard booting in 3 miles because they don't have an approach ski set up... 

Dave Cramer · · Greenfield, MA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 7

Or just ice climb 3000 vertical feet including grade 5 ice in ski boots: youtube.com/watch?v=jkR8SeC…

Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Hi Nick,

Peter Doucette and Silas Rossi bagged 3 big routes on Katahdin in less than 24h car-to-car several years ago. Skied in, out, and all climbing done in alpine touring boots (Dynafit TLT5, IIRC). Didn't seem to hurt them much.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460

those duds aint  normal...  Yes you can climb in AT boot and yes it sucks compared to climbing boots and yes I have done it though I suppose modern AT boot  might be a touch lighter than these...

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

With a mountain boot setup like you guys have, how easy is it to go say 3 miles on flat ground? How long would that take with a light pack? I've never really skied before. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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