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Daniel Melnyk
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Dec 4, 2019
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Covina
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 50
I've been pondering getting into alpine climbing this winter but after purchasing some gear (crampons, boots) and seeing that there is a lot more to buy (ice tools, ice screws, etc), I'm getting cold feet about committing. I am not interested in non-technical mountaineering like Mont Blanc, but desire to do more technical alpine and ice. I have become a competent rock climber (did NIAD this year) and am turned off by being a complete noob in a new environment. Will getting into alpine climbing be worth it?
What do you like (or hate) about alpine climbing?
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jdejace
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Dec 5, 2019
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New England
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 5
If what you enjoy about big trad routes is getting away from the crowded crag and the purely physical gymnastics of sport climbing, the sense that you're somewhere not everyone else has the privilege to be, that you're having an adventure, maybe deep down you even enjoy suffering and being a little scared...then all that will be magnified tenfold.
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Dallin Carey
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Dec 5, 2019
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Missoula
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 222
Before you make the jump to alpine, get some mileage in on waterfall ice and mixed routes. Spend some time in Hyalite/Cody, try some moderate routes in the Tetons (NW Ice couloir, Koven on Owen) and see what you think.
I like alpine because I get to use every skill set I have all in one route. I like being able to climb for hours and hours on end. I like the flow state that comes when my partner and I are working together seamlessly and moving fast and efficiently. I like ending on a summit or ridge high point. I like the lack of crowds and the lovely places I've been.
I hate being cold. I hate belaying in the middle of the night. I hate starving myself.
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Meredith E.
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Dec 5, 2019
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Bainbridge Island, WA
· Joined Apr 2017
· Points: 5
The thing about alpine anything is that it's kind of a "choose your own adventure" of suffering. Some areas/routes are relatively easy romps. Others will have you begging for mercy and cursing Fred Becky.
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Nick Sweeney
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Dec 5, 2019
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Spokane, WA
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 987
Daniel Melnyk wrote: I have become a competent rock climber (did NIAD this year) and am turned off by being a complete noob in a new environment. You obviously have the fitness to go very far in alpine climbing - NIAD is bad ass! But this attitude sounds like your biggest barrier. I would argue that alpinism requires a very humble mindset. None of your technical rock ability is going to help you navigate a broken glacier.
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Jeremy Cote
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Dec 5, 2019
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White Mountains NH
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 0
Sounds like you should look into some mixed climbing action.
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Vaughn
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Dec 5, 2019
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Colorado
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 55
Daniel Melnyk wrote: I'm getting cold feet about committing. You'll probably have to get used to that
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Michael Catlett
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Dec 5, 2019
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Middleburg, VA
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 175
It requires an apprenticeship and a collection of lots of skills and experiences, so come with patience. I would not let the money dissuade you but dont make the big investment amd then find out if it is for you.
As suggested some time ice climbing may be a good way to dip your toe in. San Jaun Guides in Ouray can hook you up with gear, guides classes and experiance in and outside the ice park. An avenue like this is a good way to sample what alpine climbing has to.offer.
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Gumby boy king
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Dec 5, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2019
· Points: 547
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AlpineIce
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Dec 5, 2019
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Upstate, NY
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 255
There's a big difference between "alpine climbing" and simply climbing technical, multi-pitch ice routes in winter. As mentioned by most everyone else, get to know a seasoned guide, go over required gear and swing tools into columns of fat ice. Learn Gadd's ice climbing technique well and practice laps on TR to see if you enjoy being on ice. There's something to be said to climbing rock in a t-shirt with warm hands. Again, get comfortable with being uncomfortable in the winter.
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Derek DeBruin
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Dec 5, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 1,094
Daniel Melnyk wrote: I've been pondering getting into alpine climbing this winter but after purchasing some gear (crampons, boots) and seeing that there is a lot more to buy (ice tools, ice screws, etc), With this kit, you're an ice axe away from summer alpine rock routes. That could be a good entry point. I'm getting cold feet Can happen frequently alpine climbing. Learning how to stay warm makes it way more enjoyable. about committing. The type of alpine climbing you're describing tends to be committing. I am not interested in non-technical mountaineering like Mont Blanc, but desire to do more technical alpine and ice. "Alpine" doesn't really have a consensus definition, but suffice to say alpine climbing often involves ice, but just because it's an ice climb, it's not necessarily alpine climbing. I have become a competent rock climber (did NIAD this year) Nice. The amount of vert, technical terrain, and time on the go in a NIAD can be quite the entre into an alpine style experience. and am turned off by being a complete noob in a new environment. Why? That's probably the most important question to ask yourself at this point. In my humble opinion, while it's not a good idea to be a total noob alpine climbing, if you don't approach the experience with humility, a beginner's mind, willingness to learn, and openness to feedback from both the mountain and your partner, you might not be long for this world. Will getting into alpine climbing be worth it? Only you can really answer that. What makes rock climbing worth it to you? Anything about your answer that would be analogous in alpine climbing? What do you like Summits. Aesthetic lines. Using every skill set a climber might possess, on rock, ice, and snow in a remote location and unforgiving environment with a solid partner driven toward a shared challenge. The comraderie that accompanies this. The personal dedication, self-knowledge, and honesty this demands. Achieving flow on a route just at the cusp of my ability. (or hate) about alpine climbing? When I end up colder, hungrier or thirstier than expected. When everything seems to be moving too slow. When I've been awake for me than about 28 hours. When an objective hazard is unanticipated and unavoidable. When I'm trying to fall asleep before an alpine start.
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Jon Loke
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Feb 20, 2020
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WA
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 180
M Jarmland wrote: Rock climbing is like weed. Nice and mellow, easily attainable and won’t break the bank. If it’s your thing you’ll get addicted though.
Alpinism is like heroin.
Your choice! This is the best alpine climbing analogy I've ever heard.
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Jake Laba
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Feb 20, 2020
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 0
Hire a guide and go on a trip before you buy gear to see if you even like it.
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Andy Newman
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Feb 20, 2020
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Bryson City, NC
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 15
Cesar Cardenas wrote: I don’t think you know what mixed climbing is. that's exactly what I was thinking lol
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Cosmic Charlie
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Feb 20, 2020
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Washington
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 0
M Jarmland wrote: Rock climbing is like weed. Nice and mellow, easily attainable and won’t break the bank. If it’s your thing you’ll get addicted though.
Alpinism is like heroin.
Your choice! Best analogy I've ever heard!
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Joseph Ray
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Feb 25, 2020
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Harmony
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 15
M Jarmland wrote: Rock climbing is like weed. Nice and mellow, easily attainable and won’t break the bank. If it’s your thing you’ll get addicted though.
Alpinism is like heroin.
Your choice! Well said !
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