Mountain Project Logo

Climbing near Guadalupe Canyon Oasis in Baja Mexico?

Original Post
Ben E · · San Diego · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 155

Hello!
I was wondering if any of you knew about any sport climbing near Guadalupe Canyon in Baja Mexico (Given the close proximity to SoCal I thought I’d ask around here). I’m going down here this weekend and I can’t find anything on MP. I read a random blog post from a girl who said a guy named Gri Gri showed her a sport climbing section near a waterfall but can’t find any beta. Has anyone here climbed down there? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Ben E · · San Diego · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 155
ClimbBaja wrote: There is at least one route by the pool at the base of the first waterfall. A 15 minute walk up the canyon from the campgrounds. GriGri knows about a few other routes. I was there two weeks ago, and the stream was dry. There was a winter storm last week and another forecast Wednesday through Friday. Be sure to take the western road along the Sierra de Juárez  mountains (signed exit off highway 2 eastbound when you hit the desert after descending the Rumorosa Grade). Even then, you might need 4WD after this storm. The eastern road (at the Pavarotti sign on Highway 2) running south across Laguna Salada dry lake is a 4x4 mudfest now. Stay off the lake bed, or risk sinking to the frame.
Another weather warning: The forecast calls for snow down to 3,000' elevation, Thursday and Friday. Highway 2 ("libre" free road) and 2D ("cuota", toll road) are likely to shut down entirely between El Hongo and La Rumorosa. You could still drive to Guadalupe Canyon via Mexicali. 
Sweet! Thanks for the response and for the approach beta. We have a 4WD and my friends been a bunch of times so we should be good to get there. Do you have any idea how hard the route is and how tall? Debating which rope to bring. Also do you know if anything else relatively close to the canyon or even on the way? We’ll be driving from San Diego. 
Ben E · · San Diego · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 155
ClimbBaja wrote: No idea how hard the route is. Vertical granite, some bolts. Guessing 50-60'.

"Also do you know if anything else relatively close to the canyon or even on the way? "
Ha, ha, Yes! You will be driving past the entrance to Canyon El Tajo. Look to the west and El Gran Trono Blanco's east face is 1600' of white granite. The approach is not the many miles up the canyon; it is from the plateau to the west. I may be on the 5,000' plateau just behind Trono Blanco, four-wheeling in the snow with alfalfa for horses at a nearby ranch.

There's a newly developed sport area, "Dos Cumbres" about 4 miles east of Tecate. Access is from the free "libre" highway 2. North side of the highway, overlooking the highway; can't miss seeing it. Tecate is at 1,800' elevation; guessing Dos Cumbres is about 2,500' so perhaps some snow Thursday night with this storm.
Sounds good! Just gonna bring a long rope and hopefully find some other routes in the area around the warm springs. I didn’t bring any trad stuff so won’t be able to do any of the Canyon El Tajo routes. Last question, once I’m there where would be the best area to try to find Grigri? Thanks for the help ! 
Ben E · · San Diego · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 155
ClimbBaja wrote: The last I heard, Grigri is not in the desert, he is in the mountains.  Watch out for flash floods. You will have some arroyos to cross. Have fun!

Made it there over the weekend. In case anyone else is wondering, there are three bolted sport routes right next to each other near the main waterfall. One, the start seems fairly hard but then eases up after the second bolt. The second one is easy, maybe 5.6, though you could make it harder if you avoid the gully. There are two sets of chains, if you wanna go to the very top the last section is run out. Also worth mentioning, the top chains are not secured by normal bolts, but rather chains wrapped around pins. Made me a little nervous when I was cleaning. The last one was moderate, except for a small overhanging part right before the chains which is harder. 

We should’ve listened to you about avoiding the lake bed. We took road you mentioned in, but thought the lake bed would be dry enough on the way out. We were wrong and barely made it without getting stuck, and got our truck completely coated in clay. Regardless was a fun time. Thanks for the info 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
Post a Reply to "Climbing near Guadalupe Canyon Oasis in Baja Me…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.