New Jersey Crags

Hey everyone,  

Was wondering what info you all had on New Jersey (or near NJ) crags?  I prefer sport climbing, but do not mind TR.  I have some info on access sensitive areas, and common spots such as Allamuchy, and Powerlinez.  

Any info about secret spots, access sensitive, or established areas is greatly appreciated, but if you know Northern NJ area well, I'd love to pick your brain..

There’s some bolts showing up in the Watchung Preserve near Seely’s Pond. Climbing isn’t allowed there, though. 

I will be living up there (NJ) next year.  Is there any chance of making the Watchung legal?  How strictly is it enforced?  I plan on checking out the gunks and Delaware water gap.  Any other good spots?

I lived in central NJ when I first started climbing and honestly the best sport climbing that was nearby was in Ralph Stover State Park in PA. You drive through beautiful colonial esque PA along the Delaware which I thought made the hour long drive worthwhile. I've also heard birdsboro quarry in PA is suppossed to be a huge sport climbing area but I've never been there. Check em out. Up north if you ever get into trad go to the Delaware Water Gap.

Mulch wrote: I lived in central NJ when I first started climbing and honestly the best sport climbing that was nearby was in Ralph Stover State Park in PA. You drive through beautiful colonial esque PA along the Delaware which I thought made the hour long drive worthwhile. I've also heard birdsboro quarry in PA is suppossed to be a huge sport climbing area but I've never been there. Check em out. Up north if you ever get into trad go to the Delaware Water Gap.

Been there a few times. Very peaceful and sublime drive.   I know beggars can’t be choosers but I’m not a big fan of that rock quality. Too slick. 

I climb sport and trad, getting into ice in the Adirondacks and NH.  It seems that area of PA and the DWG are my best bet.  How is allamuchy?  The watchung is a lot closer to where I will be.  It also seems like a lot of areas make it illegal to climb.

Pat K wrote: I climb sport and trad, getting into ice in the Adirondacks and NH.  It seems that area of PA and the DWG are my best bet.  How is allamuchy?  The watchung is a lot closer to where I will be.  It also seems like a lot of areas make it illegal to climb.

Here’s what I have so far in terms of distance from NJ for sport routes.  Possibly Watchung. Ralph stover has a handful of sports routes, Powerlinez, an area near Jim Thorpe in PA ( check it out on MP), another area near Shickshinny PA. Birdsboro.  I’ve heard there’s some bolted lines at Minnewaska haven’t confirmed tho. And thatcher near Albany. 

watchung has been closed to climbing since the early 90s, and they harassed climbers even earlier than that if they saw anyone climbing there. remember , this is no fun nj, do not get caught climbing there, especially this time of year with no leaves on the trees, you can see across the creek to the wall just driving by, and you will have 5 cop cars lined up on the road and many red and blue lights resembling a small murder investigation. they will most likely confiscate your gear too. dont be that person.......its well known by everyone that the area is off limits.

btw, pat k,  its just "watchung" , not  "the watchung"    

stover is slick as snot, the gap has choss, but also plenty of great rock at both. go to either one with someone who knows the places, and let them get you going so you dont waste any time on dirty, crappy climbs. youll find sport routes at stover, and lots to t/r, the gap is mostly trad with a few hidden sport. anywhere else will take you a little driving to get to, mostly heading west into pa, or north into nys.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

A little off topic but is there a NJ climber coalition?  Or any group working with the access fund to open areas?.  

Pat K wrote: A little off topic but is there a NJ climber coalition?  Or any group working with the access fund to open areas?.  

you are talking about nj, nothing will happen. if anything, more areas will close over time, not be more accessible.

Pat K wrote: A little off topic but is there a NJ climber coalition?  Or any group working with the access fund to open areas?.  

There’s a couple; torne valley climbers coalition and New Jersey climbers coalition. I can’t speak on behalf of the latter but the former seems content with where they are now. As in, no bolting in the Powerlinez, and not much progress with access to other climbing areas under PIPC jurisdiction. 

Pat K wrote: I will be living up there (NJ) next year. 

I was born and raised in NJ. My condolences. Any chance you could change to another state?

 Is there any chance of making the Watchung legal?  

No.

How strictly is it enforced?

Very.

  I plan on checking out the gunks and Delaware water gap.  Any other good spots?

I always climbed in the Gunks. DWG is mossy, vegetated choss.

I wish I was going somewhere else but I will make the most of it.  Thanks for the info.  Hopefully I will see some of you in the summer.  Marc, I’m glad you got out, good luck.

Pat K wrote: I climb sport and trad, getting into ice in the Adirondacks and NH.  It seems that area of PA and the DWG are my best bet.  How is allamuchy?  The watchung is a lot closer to where I will be.  It also seems like a lot of areas make it illegal to climb.

Watchung if you get caught they will take your gear. My old roommate lost a rope and static line. Also face trespassing charges.

The place near Shickshinny is pretty good. Birdsboro is good for ticks, but poor in quality. 
Allamuchy is ok for Trad and TR. also has potential for some good bouldering in the Woods.

The Water gap is good training for Alpine style climbing (in the sense that It is sorta chossy and low angle with roofs).  Not really the place you want to fall a lot because of how the rock is oriented in most spots. 

Insert name wrote:

Watchung if you get caught they will take your gear. My old roommate lost a rope and static line. Also face trespassing charges.

way back i used to climb there a lot, i was 15-20 minutes away so it was a great local spot. id go alone and rope solo the climbs. never got bothered but at one point the crap started with the no climbing allowed stuff. one day i was climbing, and 2 other guys who showed up. saw a cop stop on the road and park. he came down and walked through the stream soaking his spiffy shiny shoes and his pants to get across and to the cliff. i thought to myself, if hes walking through, either of 2 things are going down. hes gonna be pissed he got all soaked and im in deep shit, or since its getting close to 4pm shift change, hes looking to go back early all wet so he can skip out.........i lucked out, just broke down my gear and left with him.....

Well, I now live up here.  Haven’t gotten out a lot but I’m looking to if anyone needs a partner.

Marc801 C wrote: I was born and raised in NJ. My condolences.

Preach. 

I know, I hate it already.  Trying to be positive though.  I will be closer to ice this winter than when I lived down south.