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Base of finger injury?

Original Post
GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Curious if anyone has any insight on this.. close to the start of my ring finger.. tender to touch, very obvious bump/band across that is raised (not on any other fingers).  some climbing makes it feel sore and weak.. (crimps or direct pressure.
located on the ink line in photo

Thanks in advance. 

Dan Knisell · · MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 6,412

Sounds like a pulley injury. Best to see a physician for actual diagnosis. Heal up!

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

I feel like its been there for like 2 years... severity of pain/weakness comes and goes.. I have taken.. weeks off and months off... maybe at some point awhile ago i took almost a year off.. 

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

maybe more then 2 years actually

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Yea.. I think I’ve tried that.. any remedies or support ideas to combine with rest and smart climbing? Rehab? Training techniques to do or not to do? Tape? Braces? Ice and drugs?

Dan Knisell · · MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 6,412

I like tape even though there’s evidence it doesn’t actually help. Really rest is best but if you’re going to climb anyway avoid any dynamic moves while crimping that hand. Not trying to be snarky but a doctors advice is best as any of us could be completely wrong. 

Jack Neus · · Boulder, originally NJ! · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Do you have pain when pulling open handed? I've had similar things (three times on three different fingers now) where I can't apply direct pressure (i.e. massive jugs) or do any sort of half/full crimp (anything where the finger is "bridged"). My best understanding I've gotten from PTs and doctors is that it's tenosynovitis -- basically a bruised tendon (which I got in my case from coming down really hard on a big hug). In any case, I've been able to rehab these injuries by doing lots of open hand climbing and warming up really really thoroughly (at the onset of the inflammation, I'd have pain if crimping for the first 2 hours of my session!).

Not trying to diagnose you online, but maybe this will help!

tanner jones · · leavenworth · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,285

A2 pulley injury

https://medium.com/@jamesleedpt/a2-pulley-injuries-in-rock-climbing-9cb00fa6f3bf

Eli B · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 6,067

I just popped an A2 pulley 3 weeks ago and am already back to climbing. I still can’t crimp super hard, but I bought a SPOrt from RockNSport.com and could climb within a week of hearing the pop. it’s a splint that you mold to your finger and tape down so that it holds your tendon closer to your bone and you can climb without pain. It pretty much just doesn’t fit into finger jams at all.
I hope this helps, it’s helped me rehab my injury without too much time off.

Andrew Hairybutt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Ya sounds like a pulley. I did this on both ring fingers and Theres a really good taping technique. I waited 2 years and only this gave me the confidence to crimp and climb hard again. You should look up pulley taping video. I wrap the base of my finger, cross upwards to the middle on the inside of my finger, wrap the middle once or twice then cross back down to the base making an X inbetween.
I dunno if this makes sense but good luck!  

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Awesome! Thanks for all the insight! Does icing a pulley injury help? and is it okay to do open handed crimps on the hangboard? (Feels a little weak sometimes.. and yea I think I did a few half ass warm ups which made the finger flare back up

Dan Knisell · · MA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 6,412

Ice will help. Rest is best. Worry about hangboard routines until after it feels better. Feast on slopers for now.

GDodds dodds · · Portland Maine · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the insight, order and spORT and gonna hyper focus on warm up and avoid crimps for a bit 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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