clipping technique

I learned sport climbing about 20y ago and my clipping technique has been the same ever since and is based on the instructions that could be found in the Petzl technical documentation at the time, which is still the same today. (see picture below)

More and more I see  people at the gym using a slightly different technique where they fully grab the draw with the rope resting on top of their thumb instead of the technique shown in the 2nd picture. Any idea why this new technique is now being teached?  Personally the "finger at the bottom" technique works really well for me, so not planning on changing, but I'm still curious as to what prompted the change.

"Fully grab the draw".... sounds like aid climbing to me

Because Ondra uses it and if you clip like him you too will be rock climbing Jesus?

Seriously, though, I find it a bit (I.e incredibly marginally) faster than clipping the way you describe. If you have a belayer who likes to short rope you it’s a no go though. 

I think the "new" technique you refer to is "ham fisting". No one should be teaching that and it's in general frowned upon. Keep doing what your doing.  Also its taught not teached.

PNW Choss wrote:   Also its taught not teached.

I’m afraid I must use the 2nd language excuse for that one.

PNW Choss wrote:Also it’s taught not teached.

Ftfy

Auden Alsop wrote: Because Ondra uses it and if you clip like him you too will be rock climbing Jesus 

Had I known that the only thing between me and climbing 5.15 was a change of clipping technique I’d have made the change a long time ago. :P

Ham fisting! I think it comes from hard crack climbing world - if you don't tape your cam slings holding the carabiners, you need to stabilize the carabiner by grabbing the entire thing to clip the rope in, otherwise it the biner may rotate. Same is probably true to very steep routes where draws are dangling in the air.

Jonathan Segrist has an awesome video on clipping on the EpicTV youtube channel you can check out that was super helpful for me

This blog has way more ways to clip - Clip Draws Like Ninja

I'd say it all comes down to personal preference and size of hands.

Pierre Proulx wrote:

Had I known that the only thing between me and climbing 5.15 was a change of clipping technique I’d have made the change a long time ago. :P

Now you know! I eagerly await seeing the videos of all your 15b sends!

This video demonstrates the "Thumb" technique (around 0:50) which I think is what you are talking about:

Try it out and see if you like it. I find that a variation of the technique shown in that video works pretty well for overhanging routes when the gate is facing out/away.

Ben Molloy wrote: "Fully grab the draw".... sounds like aid climbing to me

Pierre Proulx wrote: I learned sport climbing about 20y ago and my clipping technique has been the same ever since and is based on the instructions that could be found in the Petzl technical documentation at the time, which is still the same today. (see picture below)

More and more I see  people at the gym using a slightly different technique where they fully grab the draw with the rope resting on top of their thumb instead of the technique shown in the 2nd picture. Any idea why this new technique is now being teached?  Personally the "finger at the bottom" technique works really well for me, so not planning on changing, but I'm still curious as to what prompted the change.

The "old" way of clipping included passing your finger through the gate or pinching your finger under the rope, the ham fist is safer for your fingers.

PNW Choss wrote:

Now you know! I eagerly await seeing the videos of all your 15b sends!

Yeah, don’t hold your breath on that one. Though if I believe everything I read, more aggressive shoes and expensive chalk should bring me a long way!

You'll see the ham fist/bear claw method a lot at gyms because its frequently taught due to being easier learn.. essentially the same motion with either hand or gate orientation.  As for safety, I've seen/heard of injuries resulting from both methods.

I use both methods.  I always thought of myself using the classic method you posted, but other climbers who have watched me pointed out that I also use the ham fist (or whatever you want to call it) method.  The first time someone pointed out that I use the other method, it was actually a surprise to me, as I never thought about it.  I think it comes down to where I am relative to the biner.  When I am clipping high on I am stretching to the side to get a biner at the edge of my reach, I still tend to use the old method, but when I am clipping from should to waist, it just seems more natural to stabilize the draw with my hand as opposed to just one finger.  Both seem natural to me, and it is only when i actually think about watching myself clip that I notice the difference.

Ben Molloy wrote: "Fully grab the draw".... sounds like aid climbing to me

I pointed that out to someone years ago, i believe we told him we wouldn't tell his friends that he had grabbed the draw at the crux(he had come up behind us and we couldn't rap without dropping a rope on his head). I think he was a bit upset at our accusations. Final move on Pentapitch.

Chris Sharma lost traction in the curve to futuristic climbing, and I've never seen footage of him using the technique that Ondra and other comp climbers use.  Could be what sets him apart from the others that are going on to break barriers.  I use all techniques and get compliments on my lead climbing all the time.  People are blown away by how fast I can get my clips done.  The technique in the pictures allow me to reach further out to pull carabiners toward me.  Grabbing with my palms is great for things like feet first climbing in a roof.

Paul Hutton wrote: Chris Sharma lost traction in the curve to futuristic climbing, and I've never seen footage of him using the technique that Ondra and other comp climbers use.  Could be what sets him apart from the others that are going on to break barriers.  I use all techniques and get compliments on my lead climbing all the time.  People are blown away by how fast I can get my clips done.  The technique in the pictures allow me to reach further out to pull carabiners toward me.  Grabbing with my palms is great for things like feet first climbing in a roof.

Put the bong down Paul.

Paul Hutton wrote: Chris Sharma lost traction in the curve to futuristic climbing, and I've never seen footage of him using the technique that Ondra and other comp climbers use.  Could be what sets him apart from the others that are going on to break barriers.  I use all techniques and get compliments on my lead climbing all the time.  People are blown away by how fast I can get my clips done.  The technique in the pictures allow me to reach further out to pull carabiners toward me.  Grabbing with my palms is great for things like feet first climbing in a roof.

7/10 except I don’t think that was a troll

E2a I was beaten to the punch!