Static Climbing Rope - Use it after 10 years or not? More details & photo in post.
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I've come into possession of a PMI 11mm x 46m static rope still with the factory bands on it (coiled and banded at the factory), along with the original sale tag. The issue is that the rope was made in 2007. Given the rule of thumb to discard a rope after 10 years, would this apply? Does nylon age if it's pretty much stored the entire time? Temp and humidity factors during storage are unknown. |
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No |
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I would not climb on a static rope, it will give you a pretty sharp jolt in a fall. |
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David Child wrote: I've come into possession of a PMI 11mm x 46m static rope still with the factory bands on it (coiled and banded at the factory), along with the original sale tag. The issue is that the rope was made in 2007. Given the rule of thumb to discard a rope after 10 years, would this apply?A fallacy. Does nylon age if it's pretty much stored the entire time?Not really. The rope looks new. If you came into possession of such a rope, would you climb on it, or perhaps rope together a team as they're traversing an ice field?Not with a static rope! |
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You can set up a swing in your room if you don’t want to toss it. |
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bagel bagels wrote: You can set up a swing in your room if you don’t want to toss it. Dynamic ropes make better sex swings |
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I think there is only one question people should answer for themselves when asking 'Should I use this equipment, X years after it's expiration date?: "What is the worst thing that could happen?" If you are comfortable with that,,, then your OK. Material scientists know that Nylon does reduce in strength and integrity over time. To my knowledge however, rope manufactures have never published pier reviewed data on how much strength and integrity these ropes lose over time. A reasonable assumption is that, within the recommended life span of the rope, the non-wear & tear related decrease in strength and integrity, leaves the rope within the parameters on the rope's label. Wear & tear being an independent source of degradation that could predicate one retiring the rope earlier than labeled max-life span. |
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J-- Kaiser wrote: To my knowledge however, rope manufactures have never published pier reviewed data...Doesn't that depend on the length of the pier and how many peers can fit? |
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It is fine. I would have no reservations about using that rope for applications where a static rope is appropriate. |
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Marc. I'm totally laughing at myself for that right now... |
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BD Quality Labs did a bit of testing on 20yo dynamic climbing rope, you may read it about it here Once again, with pretty much only one data point in each test, it would appear that the 20-year-old new rope performs pretty much as if it was made yesterday. These were the same results I had a few years ago when testing an old, but unused rope that had been stored properly. |
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If by ice field you mean glacier, static ropes are gaining in popularity. It's what the cool kids are using these days. Please consult the internet before listening to me though... |
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Vaughn wrote: It is fine. I would have no reservations about using that rope for applications where a static rope is appropriate. I would "second" that! However, about the LAST place I would use a static rope would be crossing a glacier. For those "up-to-the-waist-and-stopped-by-your-pack" type "falls" about anything will be OK, but if you take a 20-30 ft fall into a crevasse then you really don't want to be stopped on a static line! |
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I don't have an opinion to share about whether you should use this rope in particular, but "static rope for glacier travel" is a more complicated discussion than anyone has yet to point out: |
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Ding Ding Ding |
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Robert Hall wrote: The most important thing about crevasse falls is actually arresting the fall, which is harder than most realize. All other concerns are secondary. That said, a static line may be preferred because it may increase the likelihood of a a successful arrest. Bonus: haul systems and ascending is/are easier with static ropes. Commenters with more experience please chime in. I'm just regurgitating stuff I read online, in books, on blogs, and from guides. |
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At least one manufacturer's "expiration" advice is 10 yr in storage PLUS 5 additional years in use. IDK if this referred to static rope, but It's another data point as you make your decision. |
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Chuck D wrote: No Can you expand on that? What reasons would you have for not using a rope that has been stored for 10 years? |
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How did you get static electricity in your rope bro? |
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David Child wrote: Well you specifically asked if I would climb on it, to which the answer is most definitely no. This is partially because its a static rope, which isn't suitable to climb on regardless of age, but I also probably wouldn't climb on a 10yr old dynamic rope with a questionable storage history either. I also probably wouldn't trust my/others life to it even if it was being used suitably (haul line, fixed rope, etc) because its just not worth taking that completely unnecessary risk.I would however use the rope to make a tree swing, drag branches around, and just use as a general rope in situations where no one is going to die if the rope happened to be compromised from 10 years of questionable storage. |
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I would however use the rope to make a tree swing, drag branches around, and just use as a general rope in situations where no one is going to die if the rope happened to be compromised from 10 years of questionable storage. If someone's really swinging hard and the rope breaks they could fly like 50ft into oncoming suburban traffic. |