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Static Climbing Rope - Use it after 10 years or not? More details & photo in post.

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David Child · · Bloomington, IN · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

I've come into possession of a PMI 11mm x 46m static rope still with the factory bands on it (coiled and banded at the factory), along with the original sale tag.  The issue is that the rope was made in 2007.  Given the rule of thumb to discard a rope after 10 years, would this apply?  Does nylon age if it's pretty much stored the entire time?  Temp and humidity factors during storage are unknown.

The rope looks new.  If you came into possession of such a rope, would you climb on it, or perhaps rope together a team as they're traversing an ice field?

I hate to throw it away if there's still good life left in it.

Charles DuPont · · Portland, ME · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 118

No

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 468

I would not climb on a static rope, it will give you a pretty sharp jolt in a fall.
But I wouldn't hesitate to use this rope as a fixed line for bolting, Tyroleans, etc.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
David Child wrote: I've come into possession of a PMI 11mm x 46m static rope still with the factory bands on it (coiled and banded at the factory), along with the original sale tag.  The issue is that the rope was made in 2007.  Given the rule of thumb to discard a rope after 10 years, would this apply?  
A fallacy.
Does nylon age if it's pretty much stored the entire time?
Not really.
The rope looks new.  If you came into possession of such a rope, would you climb on it, or perhaps rope together a team as they're traversing an ice field?
Not with a static rope!
bagel bagels · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

You can set up a swing in your room if you don’t want to toss it.

Josh Swift · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
bagel bagels wrote: You can set up a swing in your room if you don’t want to toss it.

Dynamic ropes make better sex swings   

J-- Kaiser · · Southern California · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 116

I think there is only one question people should answer for themselves when asking 'Should I use this equipment, X years after it's expiration date?:  "What is the worst thing that could happen?"  If you are comfortable with that,,, then your OK.  Material scientists know that Nylon does reduce in strength and integrity over time.  To my knowledge however, rope manufactures have never published pier reviewed data on how much strength and integrity these ropes lose over time.  A reasonable assumption is that, within the recommended life span of the rope, the non-wear & tear related decrease in strength and integrity, leaves the rope within the parameters on the rope's label.  Wear & tear being an independent source of degradation that could predicate one retiring the rope earlier than labeled max-life span.  

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
J-- Kaiser wrote: To my knowledge however, rope manufactures have never published pier reviewed data...
Doesn't that depend on the length of the pier and how many peers can fit?
Vaughn · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 55

It is fine. I would have no reservations about using that rope for applications where a static rope is appropriate.​​​​

J-- Kaiser · · Southern California · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 116

Marc.  I'm totally laughing at myself for that right now...

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

BD Quality Labs did a bit of testing on 20yo dynamic climbing rope, you may read it about it here

Testing data table does not copy and paste well, you'll have to follow that link for hard numbers. But here is executive summary, with some phrases that are worth noticing  bolded.

Once again, with pretty much only one data point in each test, it would appear that the 20-year-old new rope performs pretty much as if it was made yesterday. These were the same results I had a few years ago when testing an old, but unused rope that had been stored properly.
The old, unused rope pretty much mirrored the results of the new rope:
  • —Ultimate strength using figure 8s, or single strand test jigs were incredibly similar.
  • —The figure 8 knots weakened the rope by a similar percentage in both cases  (typically knots can weaken the single strand ultimate strength value anywhere between 20-30%).
  • —The FF1 drop test impact force was very similar in both cases and increased similarly with each drop – as is typical with repeated drops on the same section of rope without letting it relax.
It’s actually unbelievable how close the results were—but we do need to remember that we’re talking about only one data point, and we’re not comparing exact samples here—the old rope is 10.5mm, and the new one is 10.2mm from a different manufacturer with likely different construction. It’s important to think of this information as directional—to give some insight.
I was doing some digging on the internet about the behavior of old, but unused ropes and found this from the Tendon website:
In the process of rope production, the fibres are mechanically doubled, twisted and braided in several stages. In this way the fibres finally attain a condition of mechanically induced stress. A long-term storage leads to retardation and relaxation. This means that stress in macromolecules is “relieving”. This phenomenon is not harmful, on the contrary it is connected with an improvement of dynamic properties. Research works showed that the results of tests of dynamic performance of ropes that had been (optimally) stored for several years were often better than values measured immediately after production. Polyamide also does not contain additives and softeners like, for example, PVC that could diffuse out. This is the reason why no embrittlement occurs.
So should you go climbing on an old, but un-used piece of gear? Well, ultimately it’s up to you. Chances are technology has changed and there is better gear on the market. In this case, this rope is considered super fat by modern standards and most folks wouldn’t be psyched to carry a big old cord like that to the crag, much less have a belay device that worked properly with it. Plus, as we all know, climbing is a serious game, so if you’re ever in doubt about your rope, or any piece of gear—it’s probably best to retire it.

Bagel Sendwich · · Presidio Heights · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

If by ice field you mean glacier, static ropes are gaining in popularity. It's what the cool kids are using these days. Please consult the internet before listening to me though...

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893
Vaughn wrote: It is fine. I would have no reservations about using that rope for applications where a static rope is appropriate.

I would "second" that! However, about the LAST place I would use a static rope would be crossing a glacier.  For those "up-to-the-waist-and-stopped-by-your-pack" type "falls" about anything will be OK, but if you take a 20-30 ft fall into a crevasse then you really don't want to be stopped on a static line!

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

I don't have an opinion to share about whether you should use this rope in particular, but "static rope for glacier travel" is a more complicated discussion than anyone has yet to point out:

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Simultaneous-progression-and-fall-arrest-in-a-crevasse-with-the-RAD-SYSTEM?ProductName=RAD-SYSTEM

Bagel Sendwich · · Presidio Heights · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

Ding Ding Ding

Bagel Sendwich · · Presidio Heights · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
Robert Hall wrote:

...but if you take a 20-30 ft fall into a crevasse then you really don't want to be stopped on a static line!

The most important thing about crevasse falls is actually arresting the fall, which is harder than most realize. All other concerns are secondary. That said, a static line may be preferred because it may increase the likelihood of a a successful arrest. Bonus: haul systems and ascending is/are easier with static ropes. 

Commenters with more experience please chime in. I'm just regurgitating stuff I read online, in books, on blogs, and from guides.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

At least one manufacturer's "expiration" advice is 10 yr in storage PLUS 5 additional years in use. IDK if this referred to static rope, but It's another data point as you make your decision.

If it were me, I'd use that for any/all static rope applications without giving it a second thought. YMMV.

AND - for goodness sakes, DO NOT "THROW IT OUT". There are far too many legit uses for beefy rope like that for it to go into a landfill.

David Child · · Bloomington, IN · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0
Chuck D wrote: No

Can you expand on that?  What reasons would you have for not using a rope that has been stored for 10 years?

5.Seven Kevin · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 0

How did you get static electricity in your rope bro?

Charles DuPont · · Portland, ME · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 118
David Child wrote:

Can you expand on that?  What reasons would you have for not using a rope that has been stored for 10 years?

Well you specifically asked if I would climb on it, to which the answer is most definitely no.  This is partially because its a static rope, which isn't suitable to climb on regardless of age, but I also probably wouldn't climb on a 10yr old dynamic rope with a questionable storage history either. 

I also probably wouldn't trust my/others life to it even if it was being used suitably (haul line, fixed rope, etc) because its just not worth taking that completely unnecessary risk.

I would however use the rope to make a tree swing, drag branches around, and just use as a general rope in situations where no one is going to die if the rope happened to be compromised from 10 years of questionable storage. 
Bagel Sendwich · · Presidio Heights · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
I would however use the rope to make a tree swing, drag branches around, and just use as a general rope in situations where no one is going to die if the rope happened to be compromised from 10 years of questionable storage. 

If someone's really swinging hard and the rope breaks they could fly like 50ft into oncoming suburban traffic.

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