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Ecuador Volcanoes (Including Chimborazo!)

Original Post
John Saxton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

This is fairly non-technical and I'm not sure if this is the right place to post, but I thought I'd give it a shot.

I'm seriously considering trying to climb Chimborazo in February. Chimborazo is the tallest mountain in Ecuador, measuring 20,564 ft. And since the Earth is a little fatter around the equator than the poles, the furthest you can get from the center of the Earth is the summit of Chimborazo, not the summit of Everest.

This is fairly non-technical, and no prior technical climbing experience is required. My understanding is that crampons, ice axes and rope will be required, but those can be rented in Quito (if they're not provided by the guide). In addition, the packages I am considering would spend a rest day providing us basic training on how to use the climbing equipment.

This is about a 2 week commitment. The trip starts in Quito, and spending 2-3 days acclimatizing in Quito seems like a good idea. After that, we would start doing acclimatization hikes: a 14,000 foot mountain followed by a 16,000 foot mountain followed by Illiniza Norte, followed by Cotopaxi, followed by Chimborazo.

There are a number of ways to do this hike. My serious climbing friends recommend finding an American company and doing it through them, but I'd rather go with an Ecuadorian company:
1: If I'm going to Ecuador, I'd rather pay an Ecuadorian to guide me up the mountain than an American. It just seems like a more socially responsible way to travel.
2: These Ecuadorian guides have been climbing these mountains their entire lives. How many times per year does the American fly down to lead climbs?
3: The American companies are a lot more expensive.

Speaking of cost, my preferred guiding company (Lonely Summits) quoted me $1490 for the following itinerary: lonelysummits.com/chimboraz…

There will be additional costs, but I haven't priced those out yet. I'm also open to other suggestions.

I can't leave the US until February 3rd due to work commitments, and I'd like to wrap this up before the end of February. My understanding is that it is a bad idea to climb Chimborazo in March.

Let me know if you're interested!

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,893

Not interested, but was there "way back" in 1994.  Mountains don't change much. When we were there there was a major hut on Chimborazo WAY HIGH, I forget the actual altitude but we climbed about 200 vertical feet above the hut and that was, at that time, my personal high altitude. I would have to say the hut was at about 18,000 +/-ft. (We had just climbed 17,6000 ft Tong....??...close to the town of Basas [Bazas?], and the Chim. hut was higher, or close to it.)  In any event, the summit was considered a day climb from the hut. I do remember my friends, who spoke excellent Spanish and had been living in Quito for 2 years, had to ask 3 times for the correct road directions, but you drive to the hut.

Perhaps your acclimatization period is too aggressive / too extensive.  If you "acclimatize"  in Quito, or anywhere else, "watch out for the water"  (and anything else uncooked, e.g. salads) After two weeks of absolutely neurotic measures to "drink & eat clean" [our friends had been doing it for 2 years ! ] we went to the best restaurant in Quito on the last night to celebrate, and I had a scotch on the rocks....next morning..day..next week...well let's just say this this was pre-911 and in those days you could go to the bathroom in airplanes pretty much right up to landing...I think I made 6 trips.  I have alwayes felt the ice cubes in the scotch was the culprit!

Maybe a couple of "careful" days in Quito, some easy hikes, then one of the 14-16,000 footers, then go to Chim.  If you're "pushing" the rainy period, maybe the extra days just wait for your weather window?

I forget the exact name of the 17,600 ft-er we climbed down by Bazas[?] but it was a good hike.  Afternoon hike to a primitive hut, then up for an alpine start (2am??) and up to the summit, which at that time was a bit sulfurous. Then down, pick up gear at the hut, then to the car. Great views East to the Amazon Basin at dawn.

If you do hire a local guide, when we were there (granted 25 yrs ago) the BEST "tip" was to leave the guide any old climbing gear:  old rope(s) / even 7-8mm cord.  Then, stuff was almost unavailable and horribly expensive (in "Sucra" terms, not I think they use the US $ ). I left 50 ft of old 7mm with a guide we befriended at the hut, and it was like I gave him a $1000.  I don't know if that has changed or not...perhaps someone else knows?????

If you decide to do Cotapaxi, stay at La Hassienda Cenigal (spelling is all wrong) and book the Humbolt room, if it hasn't gotten too expensive.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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