Karl Walters wrote: They're horrible. I know 2 sponsored athletes and 3 pretty good climbers that have had them and all hated them. Absolutely no one feels they are softer than the Team 5.10s and you can simply put the 2 shoes next to each other and bend them to see this. The Dragon now has a forefoot over the midsole whereas the older shoes had a full midsole and continuous rubber from heel to toe. I will say that they hold their downturn far better. The sponsored climbers described them as "an insensitive brick, worse than a Solution".
Also, there are rumors that Adidas C4 and HF is not the same as that of old. In my case I believe that to be true as my newer Hiangles never broke in the same as the old ones and the rubber never felt as sticky or sensitive.
In addition to what was said above- they're moderately softer than the Quantum, but nowhere near the original Dragon and they don't really soften up. They never stretch or break in. The velcro version has a metal buckle that hurt everyone's ankle. The heel does fit better.
I haven’t climbed in the Quantums, but given their intended use, I don’t want a bouldering shoe that is basically a Quantum with a toe patch of rubber. Which... is the Quantum VCS.
I ran into some climbers at the local gym who were both sporting the lace Dragons. They were both quick to point out that they prefer the older Dragon, but didn’t have any strong issues with the new model. They seemed decently built with the few minutes I had to handle them and my new pair of Grandstones are bomber in their build... maybe Five Ten is slowly getting they QC issues resolved.
I love the Hiangle, one of the best shoes for bouldering I’ve owned, but the sole delaminated after two months of use for both pairs I owned. Adidas CS was quick to replace both pairs, fortunately. I’m hesitant to purchase another pair given the number of reviews complaining of inconsistent sizing and ongoing durability issues.
Five Ten shoes fit my feet perfectly, especially in the heel. But, it’s looking more and more like I’m going to have to convert to LS or Scarpa for future bouldering/sport options.
A bouldering shoe with a stiff toe box, plenty of toe rubber coverage, no midsole, and a soft, pliable, narrow heel... the dream shoe. Futuras come damn close for me, but they need a little more toe rubber coverage.