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2019 Five Ten Dragon Lace or VCS - Looking for Reviews/Comments

Original Post
Casey Collyer · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Hi All,

Per the title, for those who own/have tried the 2019 Dragons - either the VCS or lace - what are your thoughts? How's the durability? Sensitivity? How's it perform to other models you wear/have worn? How's the fit compared to other models?

Any feedback or comments about the shoes would be appreciated!

mkclimb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 416

They are bigger and have a different fit that the original dragons. Sizing is about 1/2 size bigger (i.e. new dragon 10 = old dragon 10.5) I've used the VCS for a couple months and while I was initially disappointed they didn't fit the same as the previous dragons, they've definitely grown on me to be my main shoe for most climbing - gym, bouldering, and sport.

The overall fit is most similar to the Quantum but softer; wider at the forefoot and deeper at the heel, and I think the heel fits way better than the original dragons did. I know a few people have complained about the location of the upper velcro strap digging in to the ankle, but I haven't noticed that. 

Durability seems strong. No delamming issues, no seams tearing, no issues there. Using them 3-4x week, indoor and on sandstone and limestone.

Sensitivity - closer to the black team 5.10s than the dragons. I actually think they are softer than the team 5.10s at this point.

Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106

They're horrible. I know 2 sponsored athletes and 3 pretty good climbers that have had them and all hated them. Absolutely no one feels they are softer than the Team 5.10s and you can simply put the 2 shoes next to each other and bend them to see this. The Dragon now has a forefoot over the midsole whereas the older shoes had a full midsole and continuous rubber from heel to toe. I will say that they hold their downturn far better.  The sponsored climbers described them as "an insensitive brick, worse than a Solution".  

Also, there are rumors that Adidas C4 and HF is not the same as that of old. In my case I believe that to be true as my newer Hiangles never broke in the same as the old ones and the rubber never felt as sticky or sensitive.

In addition to what was said above- they're moderately softer than the Quantum, but nowhere near the original Dragon and they don't really soften up. They never stretch or break in. The velcro version has a metal buckle that hurt everyone's ankle.  The heel does fit better.

Casey Collyer · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0
Karl Walters wrote: They're horrible. I know 2 sponsored athletes and 3 pretty good climbers that have had them and all hated them. Absolutely no one feels they are softer than the Team 5.10s and you can simply put the 2 shoes next to each other and bend them to see this. The Dragon now has a forefoot over the midsole whereas the older shoes had a full midsole and continuous rubber from heel to toe. I will say that they hold their downturn far better.  The sponsored climbers described them as "an insensitive brick, worse than a Solution".  

Also, there are rumors that Adidas C4 and HF is not the same as that of old. In my case I believe that to be true as my newer Hiangles never broke in the same as the old ones and the rubber never felt as sticky or sensitive.

In addition to what was said above- they're moderately softer than the Quantum, but nowhere near the original Dragon and they don't really soften up. They never stretch or break in. The velcro version has a metal buckle that hurt everyone's ankle.  The heel does fit better.

I haven’t climbed in the Quantums, but given their intended use, I don’t want a bouldering shoe that is basically a Quantum with a toe patch of rubber. Which... is the Quantum VCS. 

I ran into some climbers at the local gym who were both sporting the lace Dragons. They were both quick to point out that they prefer the older Dragon, but didn’t have any strong issues with the new model. They seemed decently built with the few minutes I had to handle them and my new pair of Grandstones are bomber in their build... maybe Five Ten is slowly getting they QC issues resolved. 
I love the Hiangle, one of the best shoes for bouldering I’ve owned, but the sole delaminated after two months of use for both pairs I owned. Adidas CS was quick to replace both pairs, fortunately. I’m hesitant to purchase another pair given the number of reviews complaining of inconsistent sizing and ongoing durability issues. 
Five Ten shoes fit my feet perfectly, especially in the heel. But, it’s looking more and more like I’m going to have to convert to LS or Scarpa for future bouldering/sport options. 
A bouldering shoe with a stiff toe box, plenty of toe rubber coverage, no midsole, and a soft, pliable, narrow heel... the dream shoe. Futuras come damn close for me, but they need a little more toe rubber coverage. 
Karl Walters · · San Diego · Joined May 2017 · Points: 106

The QC is fine, but the shoes don't perform well and the rubber doesn't seem to be the same.

I love my Hiangles and Dragons as well, but think I am done with the brand after the newer, weird feeling Hiangles I got as a warranty replacement.

Try Unparallel. The Sirius fits identical to my Dragons with a bigger toe patch. I've used the Regulus LV and generally like it- feels like a slightly softer Hiangle. Have not tried their version of the team, but the rubber feels closer to the old Five Ten brand rubber than the newer Adidas stuff.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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