|
Jason Evans
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Fredericton, NB
· Joined Nov 2019
· Points: 0
Finding this slab thing impossible over 12’s, tried TC’s and moc’s thinking of switching to a furia or something equally soft/aggressive. Ideas?
|
|
Kyle Smith
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Southern Nevada
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 2,004
You're probably having trouble because friction slab past 5.11 is actually impossible...
|
|
Andrew Williams
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Concord, NH
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 625
|
|
pkeds
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Broomfield, CO
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 30
Sportiva Barracudas...oh wait...they just discontinue every shoe i love
|
|
Darren Mabe
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
|
|
Chris Hatzai
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Bend, OR
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 909
Scarpa instincts if they fit your feet. Best shoe ive ever worn. I heard boostics are great slab edging shoes as well.. get something stiff but responsive. Soft rubber rolls too much for me while edging on the slab. Instincts have 4mm vibram edge rubber.. love the stuff. Gl!
|
|
Christian Schrader
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Phoenix, AZ
· Joined Oct 2013
· Points: 80
Miura lace ups are my go to. Unless there is a shallow or slopey toe hook involved... Make sure your shoes toebox' aren't soaked with sweat
|
|
Tradiban
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Jason Evans wrote: Finding this slab thing impossible over 12’s, tried TC’s and moc’s thinking of switching to a furia or something equally soft/aggressive. Ideas? Crimp harder to take the weight off your feet.
|
|
Kevin Mokracek
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Burbank
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 363
|
|
curt86iroc
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Lakewood, CO
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 274
|
|
Bat Masterson
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Red Rock, AZ
· Joined Aug 2016
· Points: 47
|
|
Gumby boy king
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2019
· Points: 547
Really fucking tight muiras
|
|
Tree Soloist
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Mammoth Lakes / Joshua Tree
· Joined May 2018
· Points: 15
Another vote for lace-up Miuras
|
|
Josh Janes
·
Nov 11, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 10,245
Wow, there’s an amazing number of folks on here climbing 12+ slab.
|
|
Alek Fredriksson
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
Columbia, MD
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 969
La sportiva Genius. More supportive than the futura, but still smears and smedges like a beast. Plus the laces let you dial in the fit really well (like the lace up miura).
|
|
Morgan Patterson
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
Josh Janes wrote: Wow, there’s an amazing number of folks on here climbing 12+ slab. I tried one once...
|
|
Darren Mabe
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
Josh Janes wrote: Wow, there’s an amazing number of folks on here climbing 12+ slab. Until they get down rated
|
|
Dirk Diggler
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 375
When I onsight soloed Hall of Mirrors I was wearing Tarantulaces.
|
|
Adam Stackhouse
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 14,020
|
|
Nick Drake
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
Depends on the rock type and specific routes. It ain't pure friction smearing past 11+, but it can still lean toward smearing with hard crimps or it can lean toward tiny edging.
f it's more on the smearing front I use dragos. If it's a toss up/balance I like chimeras. If it's leaning toward the small edging it's 1st gen testarossas (you can see a lot of examples of hard slab in squamish being sent with them for a reason).
What I don't like for anything hard are fully flat lasted shoes, when the hands suck I really like being able to pull my hips into a rockover simply from my toe on a crystal. Can't do that the same in a flat shoe.
|
|
Josh Janes
·
Nov 12, 2019
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2001
· Points: 10,245
Nick Drake wrote:It ain't pure friction smearing past 11+... Are you saying pure friction smearing doesn't exist past 11+?
|