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What are your preferred 12+ slab climbing shoes?

Original Post
Jason Evans · · Fredericton, NB · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Finding this slab thing impossible over 12’s, tried TC’s and moc’s thinking of switching to a furia or something equally soft/aggressive. Ideas? 

Kyle Smith · · Southern Nevada · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 2,004

You're probably having trouble because friction slab past 5.11 is actually impossible...

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

FiveTen quantum’s. 

pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

Sportiva Barracudas...oh wait...they just discontinue every shoe i love

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Blancas or verdes

Chris Hatzai · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 909

Scarpa instincts if they fit your feet. Best shoe ive ever worn. I heard boostics are great slab edging shoes as well.. get something stiff but responsive. Soft rubber rolls too much for me while edging on the slab. Instincts have 4mm vibram edge rubber.. love the stuff. Gl!

Christian Schrader · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 80

Miura lace ups are my go to. Unless there is a shallow or slopey toe hook involved... Make sure your shoes toebox' aren't soaked with sweat

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Jason Evans wrote: Finding this slab thing impossible over 12’s, tried TC’s and moc’s thinking of switching to a furia or something equally soft/aggressive. Ideas? 

Crimp harder to take the weight off your feet.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

5.12 or size 12?   

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

Crocs

Bat Masterson · · Red Rock, AZ · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 47

2x4's with sticky rubber 

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

Really fucking tight muiras 

Tree Soloist · · Mammoth Lakes / Joshua Tree · Joined May 2018 · Points: 15

Another vote for lace-up Miuras

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245

Wow, there’s an amazing number of folks on here climbing 12+ slab.

Alek Fredriksson · · Columbia, MD · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 969

La sportiva Genius. More supportive than the futura, but still smears and smedges like a beast. Plus the laces let you dial in the fit really well (like the lace up miura). 

Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,960
Josh Janes wrote: Wow, there’s an amazing number of folks on here climbing 12+ slab.

I tried one once...

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Josh Janes wrote: Wow, there’s an amazing number of folks on here climbing 12+ slab.

Until they get down rated

Dirk Diggler · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 375

When I onsight soloed Hall of Mirrors I was wearing Tarantulaces.

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,020
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Depends on the rock type and specific routes. It ain't pure friction smearing past 11+, but it can still lean toward smearing with hard crimps or it can lean toward tiny edging.

f it's more on the smearing front I use dragos.
If it's a toss up/balance I like chimeras.
If it's leaning toward the small edging it's 1st gen testarossas (you can see a lot of examples of hard slab in squamish being sent with them for a reason). 

What I don't like for anything hard are fully flat lasted shoes, when the hands suck I really like being able to pull my hips into a rockover simply from my toe on a crystal. Can't do that the same in a flat shoe. 

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 10,245
Nick Drake wrote:It ain't pure friction smearing past 11+...

Are you saying pure friction smearing doesn't exist past 11+?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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