El Sendero Luminoso... How hard is it?

I'm thinking of making a serious attempt a freeing el sendero luminoso this winter, and I want to know from people who have been on the route, how hard actually is it? I've heard that EPC grades can be soft, and also in my experience, the actual difficulty of pitches on multipitches seem to be easier than the sames grades for single pitch routes. So I guess what I'm asking is, do the grades feel accurate?

My plan was to try to do it in two days, climbing up to pitch 5, 6, or 7 (depending on how the climbing is going that day), sleeping on the bivy ledge below pitch 6, and finishing the rest of the route the next day. I figured this would give me the best chance of success. While mid-12 sport climbing isn't at my limit, I do not believe I would have a chance at freeing every pitch clean if I did it in one day, especially considering the fact that some pitches will likely take 2 or even 3 goes to send. 

Friends of mine (5.13 climbers for reference) have attempted it and got shut down hard. I think there’s potential for big falls as well. My impression is to take it seriously.

Cron wrote: Related thread from a few months back you might find useful.

Thanks! I didn't see that thread earlier, definitely some useful stuff in there

I did this route about a decade ago so memory is a little foggy but I didn't think it was particularly hard or required a lot of crack climbing. It's old school, not in the grading but in the style.  Lots of moves on small holds with smeary or small edge feet, sometimes above bolts.  Whether you think the grades are right or wrong depends on your background and skill set.  If you prefer/excel on steep thuggy climbing like the arsenal in rifle, Sendero will feel way hard.  If you're good at standing on your feet and problem solving on limestone like some routes at tensleep, it will be fine although I do think it would probably be 13a in tensleep.  FWIW, it would be 12b or c at an old school French crag like Buoux or the Verdon.  All that aside, it's a very nice route in great position.  

I'm not sure how much traffic it gets these days but some of the harder PC multipitch routes can be a little dirty up high (the worm, devil's cabana boy) so having a way to find/clean/chalk holds can be nice.

yevquest wrote: I did this route about a decade ago so memory is a little foggy but I didn't think it was particularly hard or required a lot of crack climbing. It's old school, not in the grading but in the style.  Lots of moves on small holds with smeary or small edge feet, sometimes above bolts.  Whether you think the grades are right or wrong depends on your background and skill set.  If you prefer/excel on steep thuggy climbing like the arsenal in rifle, Sendero will feel way hard.  If you're good at standing on your feet and problem solving on limestone like some routes at tensleep, it will be fine although I do think it would probably be 13a in tensleep.  FWIW, it would be 12b or c at an old school French crag like Buoux or the Verdon.  All that aside, it's a very nice route in great position.  

I'm not sure how much traffic it gets these days but some of the harder PC multipitch routes can be a little dirty up high (the worm, devil's cabana boy) so having a way to find/clean/chalk holds can be nice.

Just from the pictures/videos/descriptions, I can tell that the route fits my style. I climb best on vertical, slabby limestone. The crag that I recall fitting my style the best is the grail, which I have heard is very similar to the style found on the vertical routes in EPC. Thanks for your perspective 

It depends on what style you're used to.
In Potrero grades I would have given it a 12c, but somewhere like Squamish where slab climbing is the style, it wouldn't get more than 12b.
I managed it with one fall, before ever having climbed a .12d
I've heard from people that don't climb a lot of slabs that it's even stout for 12d though!
Either way, have a great time - one of my favourite routes, anywhere!
Very clean these days, and mostly fresh bolts

Jason Giblin wrote:

Just from the pictures/videos/descriptions, I can tell that the route fits my style. I climb best on vertical, slabby limestone. The crag that I recall fitting my style the best is the grail, which I have heard is very similar to the style found on the vertical routes in EPC. Thanks for your perspective 

Side note, you would probably like Hombre de Rifle there.

bagel bagels wrote:

Side note, you would probably like Hombre de Rifle there.

That’s definitely on my list. I always assumed it was a rifle-esque route, thus my anti-style

Funny I was just reading this: alpinist.com/doc/ALP47/70-s…  in hard copy last night! Sounds like Cedar and Alex did A TON of route cleaning that they expected to grow back quickly; thus some people who might post on MP here might have beta from post this massive clean up and not the current conditions! Honnold does give some beta on a couple moves in the article as he was soloing and making adjustments to what was previously figured out / ticked.

I would also suggest (though it is a bit direct) to message those who have climbed it directly via the suggested and star ratings, ticks and comments on: mountainproject.com/route/s…

I did this to try to figure out timelines on graffiti on Royal Arches in the Valley and had a 50% response back...maybe you will hear more!

FYI: I cross referenced this convo in the other one Cron above linked.

Jason Giblin wrote:

That’s definitely on my list. I always assumed it was a rifle-esque route, thus my anti-style

Not Rifle-esque at all. Mostly slightly-overhanging endurance climbing on ~1-pad holds. More like the Aggro Gully than Rifle.

Hey guys, we are planning a trip to Potrero based entirely around trying to send Sendero.  What do you recommend for time of year?  Mid-winter seems too cold.  Maybe November or early March?  

We just went up the first 7-8 pitches to help film a video for a friend. It's like crack climbing without any cracks (except the last bit of the first pitch) mainly side pulls and vertical pockets for finger locks and jams. 

Definitely recommend a belay seat, if you're slow, as the first 5 pitches are long and hanging, you can always ditch it at the ledge. Choose your shoes wisely too there's a lot of smearing but also edging. A tag line is nice or you can rap the other route to the right

The cruxes are well bolted however the "easier" climbing feels a bit more space but I'm also a weenie. If it's your style I'd say it'll feel 12.C ish just because it's basically hard climbing after hard climbing. The climbing we did had very little loose rock and they replaced many of the bolts two seasons ish ago. Heads up if someone is climbing the route to the right as there was a bunch of rock fall while climbers were on it. A microwave sized rock hit the bivy about 30 mins after we left.

We did it in March and it was around 75 degrees but went in the shade around 11:30. . Good luck!!