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Cheaper alternative for adjustable lanyard.

Original Post
Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

     So I have been thinking of a cheaper alternative to adjustable lanyards like the Petzl Connect for an adjustable PAS. I already have a looped daisy I use currently but it can be cumbersome to adjust/get the right length at the anchors.
     I was considering something like a scaffold knot to a locker then taking the running end from that through both tie in points back to a Prussik or similar friction hitch on what would now be the running part of let say 7-8 mm cordage.
     I’ll post a picture when I put together what I have envisioned as a prototype but want to get some feedback on suggestions or possible pitfalls. Thanks in advance for any input.

Ben Deuell · · Buffalo, NY · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Sounds like you want to make a purcell prusik

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Purcell Prussic works well for what you want. By doubling the loop that girth hitches the tie-in point I get by with 5mm (16’) and feel it’s strong enough and not too bulky. Gives you a good spot to extend the rappel and a full arm reach of extension. Somewhat dynamic with stretch and the prussic should slip under load. 

Aidan Raviv · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 95

Sounds like you haven't had time to read Freedom of the Hills cover to cover yet.

In all seriousness tho, Purcell Prusiks are cheap and will definitely work but the dual connect/kong slyde/camp swing are the wave if you want something less finicky.

Reformed Troll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

...and the award for posting exactly like you’d expect a 25 year old from LA to post like goes to????

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

Just use the god damn rope people. 

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

Yep, Use the rope.  Alternatively for aid climbing I use a Kong Kisa.  $10 bucks but the kicker is you need to find some 9mm rope.  I got some in Yosemite gear store by the foot.

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

I don't understand why some people recommend using the rope when the question was about a personal lanyard.  Did the OP give a use case?  No, he specifically asked about a lanyard... There are numerous scenarios where it is impractical to be using the rope to attach to the anchor.  Say the climb starts by rappelling in and it is 10 rappels.  Are you seriously advocating using the rope to clip in while rappelling?  That method is indeed possible but if my partner did that I doubt I'd ever go climbing with them again.  Now if that same partner busted out a purcell prussic and clipped in to the anchor, I'd probably think, sweet they know what they are doing!

The purcell prussic is the cheapest and most bomber solution I've come across.  I know numerous extremely strong and very well educated climbers that use them.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Max R wrote: Just use the god damn rope people. 

How do you use the rope for a rappel tether?

Edit: I see Mikey mentioned this above.
Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292
FrankPS wrote:

How do you use the rope for a rappel tether?

Edit: I see Mikey mentioned this above.

I don’t! The ONLY situation in which i use a tether, is in what Mikey Describes above. Which is pretty rare for me. In that case i use a purcell. 

I was just assuming, that this thread was identical to nearly every other thread in which people are building massive anchors out of cord and using excessive PAS’s and shit. 
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jonathan Flannery wrote:

im not 25 and live nowhere near LA. 

I don't think he was talking about you.

Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

This is similar to what I was imagining when I created this thread. Something with 2 tie in points off of one master point. I threw this together with stuff I had in the car quickly to show what my thought process was.
What I want is something with two tie ins preferably redundant to one another(2 points with a master point redundant?) that are adjustable in length(prefer independent adjustable length but would settle for two adjustable to same length).Think the Purcell is worth assembly and trying out but always open to suggestions or someone’s experience showing me a better way.

Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Which obviously if exactly what I was looking for existed or could be tied with cordage and biners only then it probably would be more widely used already. May just break down and throw money at the issue with one of the adjustable double lanyards on the market already. Like I said i had an idea floating around and was looking for some opinions from the community at large. 

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Jonathan Flannery wrote: Which obviously if exactly what I was looking for existed or could be tied with cordage and biners only then it probably would be more widely used already. May just break down and throw money at the issue with one of the adjustable double lanyards on the market already. Like I said i had an idea floating around and was looking for some opinions from the community at large. 

You have basically tied a slight modification to the Purcell. Instead of finishing the loose ends by tying them into a loop that can be girth hitched to harness, you have tied each strand to a biner. Not sure why you want two tie in points or did you mean two clip in points? The Purcell is usually used with the adjustable side at the anchor and fixed side at harness. Either way, it can be tied with double loops at each end which would also give you two points.  Regardless, what you have tied there, should work just fine. Disregard the rantings about the rope being the ONLY way to anchor. Those come with any reference to a personal anchor

Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

So what I tied up was basically the Purcell without the double fisherman’s finish to the tails. When using the Purcell as a PAS I’m assuming you girth hitch the side with the DFK to your harness and use a locker in the adjustable bit made by the Prussik? This would give me one adjustable tie in. Anyone know a way I can get two adjustable bits with one girth hitch to my master points on my harness?

Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0
Greg R wrote: Purcell Prussic works well for what you want. By doubling the loop that girth hitches the tie-in point I get by with 5mm (16’) and feel it’s strong enough and not too bulky. Gives you a good spot to extend the rappel and a full arm reach of extension. Somewhat dynamic with stretch and the prussic should slip under load. 

Pic 1 what have you done to finish off the tails? Kinda looks like a doubled double fisherman’s buts pics of knots can be tricky for me. 

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Jonathan Flannery wrote:

Pic 1 what have you done to finish off the tails? Kinda looks like a doubled double fisherman’s buts pics of knots can be tricky for me. 

Yeah the pic is hard to see. It’s actually just an overhand on two parallel bights. Also, if you look at pic 3 the small biner is through two loops which you can use separately for your two points. 

Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0
Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Jonathan Flannery wrote: So what I tied up was basically the Purcell without the double fisherman’s finish to the tails. When using the Purcell as a PAS I’m assuming you girth hitch the side with the DFK to your harness and use a locker in the adjustable bit made by the Prussik? This would give me one adjustable tie in. Anyone know a way I can get two adjustable bits with one girth hitch to my master points on my harness?

If you want a single loop at the girth hitch tie the normal Purcell finish like this. I double it for extra strength when I use 5mm cord. Note: the overhand in this photo needs cleaned up  

Jonathan Flannery · · Springfield, KY · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0
Greg R wrote:

Yeah the pic is hard to see. It’s actually just an overhand on two parallel bights. Also, if you look at pic 3 the small biner is through two loops which you can use separately for your two points. 

Thank you very much for your information. Definitely gonna try it out get time I’m out. 

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10
Jonathan Flannery wrote:

There you go, clip separate biners to each loop and you have two points. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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