Best climbing-oriented approach shoe?

Looking for an approach shoe that would be good for climbing 5.easy pitches.  That is, a shoe that is maybe not the most comfortable for hiking or solid for standing in aiders, but a shoe that fits/performs more like a climbing shoe.  

Maybe the Evolv Cruzer Psych?  

Thanks.   

I like my LaSportiva Boulder X. They are a bit clunky but great for stabbing into cracks and blocky, chunky granite approaches. Low top and comfy, not helpful for carrying a load, and not too light weight. Kinda like old reliables. I’m good on 5.9 hand crack in these too.

I use La Sportiva TX 4's and have climbed up to 5.8 in them. I've heard of others climbing 5.10 and beyond in approach shoes. The TX2's are much lighter and slimmer like a climbing shoe. These could be climbed in even better, I would assume, and I look forward to trying them. I think your ability to climb x grade in x footwear relies much more on your personal abilities than the shoe itself.

Scarpa Crux maybe

I've been using the TX2s  as descent shoes. I have them sized more for hiking but if sized on the snug sized would climb climb well.  The downside is they are very flexible and don't provide much protection for your feet. Stone bruises are not uncommon. The soles are really grippy on rock but don't provide much traction on dirt.

TX4's are great for slabbing on, and mellow *(whatever that happens to be for YOU) climbing. I peak at 10easy valley grade and can comfortably go 5.6 in TX4's, 5.7-5.8 in TX2's. Downside is that I wouldn't want to do a 5mi approach in TX2's.

Don't have any experience w/ the Scarpas but the cruzer is way too lightweight/flimsy for me to want to climb in. YMMV...

My vote goes to the TX3/4 (since I haven't climbed in the new Guide Tennies). Since they have enough stiffness to actually edge something when sized slightly smaller than your legit hiking boots, but still soft enough to smear things.

IMO floppy approach shoes like the Evolv Cruzer, Scarpa Gecko, and TX2 suck for actual climbing. Since you can't edge with them if you actually want to size them to hike anything in them, then what's the point of having an approach shoe. Then on the other end of the spectrum you have stiff 2x4's like the Boulder X and Crux that are TOO stiff (and heavy) and you can't smear with them.

But if you're doing stuff that doesn't require any edging then Tx2's or hell some trail runners at that point...

Thanks everyone.  I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

I'll check out the Sportiva Tx series.

I went in the middle with the TX3’s. I was looking for an approach shoe that would climb Up to 5.6’s  and I could also use for all day hikes.

I’ve done higher grade climbs in them but there is no point. Nice and grippy even on smooth rock. Also great when setting up a top rope for kids or new climbers.  Light enough to clip on a harness on a multi pitch climb when you need to walk off. And also used them when aid climbing.
I guess they do everything they are advertised to do. 

The TX series has a wider toe box than most other approach shoes.  In general they smear well.  However, with the relatively soft flex, they are not great for edging.  They are not nearly as good for edging as the old Gandas.  

If the Tx shoes fit you well, the best model for climbing would be the TX2 leather, with your toes touching the end of the shoe.  TX2 has much better sensitivity than the TX3 and TX4.  It also has a lower volume toe box.  Leather uppers are key if you plan to jam them in cracks.  

Karl Henize wrote: The TX series has a wider toe box than most other approach shoes.  In general they smear well.  However, with the relatively soft flex, they are not great for edging.  They are not nearly as good for edging as the old Gandas.  

If the Tx shoes fit you well, the best model for climbing would be the TX2 leather, with your toes touching the end of the shoe.  TX2 has much better sensitivity than the TX3 and TX4.  It also has a lower volume toe box.  Leather uppers are key if you plan to jam them in cracks.  

You know I have a pair of basically brand new Ganda Mids. Find they don't actually climb as well to Guide Tennies or TX4's. idk maybe I still have yet to break them in? But the toe stack is huge and makes it so you can't feel much.

But in regards to toebox, the ball girth measurement doesn't feel too different from Ganda to TX last. It's just that the volume distribution is different. Like the difference of 5.10 Pinkies being tall and narrow and TC Pro's being short and wide. 

A lot of those suggestions seem really weird to me. Boulder X? TX4? Those things weigh like 47 pounds each and have terrible sensitivity. They're basically the opposite of a climbing shoe and excel at the things the OP said he didn't care about. I'd recommend something much lighter like the Cruzer Psyche, TX2, or maybe Five Tennie.

Short Fall Sean wrote: A lot of those suggestions seem really weird to me. Boulder X? TX4? Those things weigh like 47 pounds each and have terrible sensitivity. They're basically the opposite of a climbing shoe and excel at the things the OP said he didn't care about. I'd recommend something much lighter like the Cruzer Psyche, TX2, or maybe Five Tennie.

I love my Arc' teryx Acrux FL GTX approach shoe, I've climbed 5.8 in them and they are comfortable enough to hike with out tying the laces, they are my goto for approach and hiking. 

The Scarpa Crux shoes climb well. They're sticky, and less board-like than they might look. My one issue with them is, because of the all-around cushioning, they can rotate around my feet and slip off footholds if I'm using the outside edge. If I lace them tighter, I get numb spots. Maybe this wouldn't happen if you have normal- or high-volume feet.

I tried on Five Tennies and they had even more cushioning than that, so I'd avoid those for real climbing.

I'm a 10a sport climber and 5.8 trad leader in climbing shoes. I can second 5.5 and top rope 5.6 in Merrell Gloves. The gloves also fit nicely in a bullet pack if you plan to walk off a multi-pitch. 

I feel confident climbing in my Boulder-X's, much more so than my five-tennies or evolv cruisers.  They edge really well and have a much more powerful toebox and lace onto your foot really solid.  Not sensitive in the least... but they perform well enough.

I'm on my 4th pair of scarpa cruxes in 6 years.  They don't edge well, but I climb 5.8 pretty regularly with them.  I don't think I've led anything in them though.  They feel very sticky to me.  

I forgot my shoes for a day trip to indian creek yesterday but was able to follow up some 5.10 hand cracks though.

I'm an idiot, though, and I haven't tried the sportivas at all.  So I got nothing other than that weird flex.

I guess my point is that for 5.easy, anything with sticky rubber ought to work.  Just pick something that goes with your outfit.

I suppose the low cut scarpa mescalito is best for rough approaches and too clunky for low grade 5 climbing?

Thanks for chiming.  I appreciate it.  

I mostly just want to avoid the clunky hiking boot-ish style or running shoe style approach shoe.  All your recommendations are helpful.  

For reference, back in the 90's or 00's I had a pair if Nike Air ACG Cinder Cones (or whatever they were called).  They fit and felt like climbing shoes with the sticky rubber, but were super comfortable.