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Finger numbness

Original Post
Jack Hoen · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 788

I just finished a Joe's Valley trip, and after climbing pretty hard, I've come back with a numb finger. It's the ring finger on my right hand, and the tip to the first joint is numb/tingly. It's kind of like how your foot feels when its fallen asleep, but after a day of icing and rest, it's still the same.
It happened when I was cranking on a sharp pocket, where my pointer and index fingers were stacked on my ring finger. After, my ring finger was kinda misshapen at the joint, but it didn't hurt or feel different than normal. But now the numbness is still persisting, right in the area of where I think the A5 pulley is.
Any idea of what this could be? Others were saying I should get it checked out for nerve damage, or maybe it's some kind of pulley tear? I'm interested in what your opinions are. Sorry if this is already a topic in the forums, I looked and couldn't find anything like it. Thanks

niche pome · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 103

Completely anecdotal, but I had a very similar thing happen to me about 2 weeks ago, same finger, same description (completely numb tip/pad, getting better moving towards the knuckle but still tingly). It happened when I was repetitively trying a problem on a day where my total bouldering load was relatively high (~twice what I usually do in a hard session).

The numbness seemed unchanged for a day or two but has gotten progressively better since then. Today I can barely notice it. I'll say that it didn't seem to have an effect on the strength of my finger but I still took at least 2 days off. Since then I've been more careful to limit the number of tries per day on limit boulder problems.

Is it affecting you other than just feeling numb? 

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

Numbness and tingling are due to a damaged nerve. If there are no other symptoms -- pain, swelling, bruising, loss of strength or stability -- then there's probably no other damage. A minor peripheral nerve will regrow in a few weeks.

Justin Laursen · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 430

Happened to me twice. Once while cruxing out on a sharp hold for too long and once from max hangs. Sensation will return. It may take longer than you think. You can still send the gnar.  

Rissa M · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

I worked on a super crimpy route in the gym. And, all my fingers have been slightly numb at the tips for three months now. Let us know what your doctor says! @Jack Hoen

Jack Hoen · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 788

I think I had a case of neurapraxia, mainly in the ulnar nerve of my medial right ring finger; that finger was numb and tingly for weeks. It got better over time and has completely healed by now. Neurapraxia happens when a nerve is compressed or damaged, so that could be what happened to you, but it usually heals after around 8 weeks.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neurapraxia#:~:text=Neurapraxia%20is%20a%20disorder%20of,eight%20weeks%20before%20full%20recovery.

Since your fingers have been numb for so long it might be more severe, or it could be from repetitive damage. It probably isn't axonotmesis or neurotmesis, judging from how those types of injuries occur, but you could look into those. Because it's in all of your fingertips and not isolated to just one nerve, it might be just an overuse injury. I would recommend just taking a break from climbing and seeing a doctor about it if it doesn't go away soon.

@Rissa M

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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