Training squeeze chimneys?

Last year, I climbed the Steck-Salathe, and most of the climb went quite smoothly.  The one notable exception was the Narrows, where I spend 2 hours on lead, struggling to move a few inches and repeatedly slipping back down as I could sense the sun slowly dropping on the horizon.  Eventually, I made it through (with no small effort), but I vowed to get stronger on the wide.  I spent the spring and summer forcing myself onto offwidth and chimneys pretty much every time I went climbing.  I led TM's Deviation, Eeyore's Enigma, Free Press, Sacherer Cracker.  Battled on TR with Generator Crack and Ahab.  Hell, I even practiced on the UC Berkeley campus offwidths!

This past weekend, I headed to Astroman, thinking I was finally ready for the Harding Slot.  Well, I made it through the slot (following), but not without tremendous effort and all 5 stages of grief as I realized that I literally could not move in any direction for at least 10 minutes.  Any way I moved seemed to lock me in place and prevent upward progress.  I still don't really know how I got through besides sheer desperation, and the second half of the climb was definitely harder because of how much energy I burned trying to move just an inch.  

I eventually want to get strong enough to go back and redpoint Astroman.  That means I need to be able to climb squeeze chimneys.  Where do I go to learn this skill?  It seems that most of the squeezes in Yosemite would maim me if I fell out (I don't have Valley Giants or Big Bros).  Do I just toprope Generator over and over until I can get it without falling?  Crawl across the pavement while someone presses a sheet of drywall into my back?  Accept Chuck Pratt as my guardian angel?

And most importantly, how the hell do you generate upward force when you can't even take a full breath?

I spent 20 minutes stuck in the harding slot. Shuffle when your lungs are empty!

In all seriousness I think it's a grunt no matter what you do, mentally preparing for being uncomfortable and trying hard despite the very real feeling of claustrophobic asphyxiation is probably the best thing to "train".

Mark Google the wide fetish. Jaybro and Fish both hang out at that site as do most OW climbers. The site is all dedicated to climbing OW. You will find all the knowledge you seek there.

making romantic relations inside of the coffin can help

First pitch of touch and go (first pitch is a blue collar 5.9?)  at Donner has some great flared squeeze chimney if you hug close to the crack. It’s very protectable by the crack inside. Obviously it’s easier if you stay out in the wider part of the flare, but you’re not looking for that. You can climb it left- or right-side in.

Same goes for Scheister at Sugarloaf. First pitch is only 5.7, but if you squeeze into the inside of the flare I think you’d get what you’re looking for. 

It's entirely puzzling that you're looking for tips on how to do squeeze chimneys after having done SS and Astroman. It seems like your training climbs (TM's, Eeyores, Free Press, etc.) should have been done, and felt easy, before doing the SS - my reading comprehension might suck, and maybe you did those routes before the SS. I'm further puzzled by the question because it's like asking "how do I get better climbing 5.10 hand cracks?" Well, start by climbing some 5.7 hand cracks, learn the technique, build strength and fitness, then progress to 5.8, 5.9, etc.

In that respect, start on your training climbs, learn to heel-toe jam, inhale to get yourself good and stuck, then exhale while keeping the back of your arms on the wall against your back and your palms (fingers down) on the wall in front of you. Inch your way up, in hale and get stuck, then repeat ad nauseum until you're through the squeeze. Squeezes are slow. You can't blast up them the way you do a finger, off-hand, hand, or fist crack. Smooth, steady, one solid position to the next - even if it's inches at a time; don't thrutch. Monitor your heart rate - don't let it get too high. Learn the techniques - heel-toe, correct arm position, etc. Go do easy chimneys like Schiester, building up to doing routes at Arch Rock like Entrance Exam, Midterm, or English Breakfast crack.

Or just do what Alexey suggests, which sounds like the optimal ratio of pleasure and pain. Chimneys are like that.  

Adam P. wrote: It's entirely puzzling that you're looking for tips on how to do squeeze chimneys after having done SS and Astroman. 

I'd like to be able to climb squeeze chimneys more effectively so that I can later redpoint Astroman.

It seems like your training climbs (TM's, Eeyores, Free Press, etc.) should have been done, and felt easy, before doing the SS

Hindsight is 20/20.  I was entirely ready for 14 out of 15 of the pitches on the SS, and thought I was ready for the whole climb.  After realizing the Narrows was a style I hadn't trained and wasn't good at, I decided to train on more squeeze chimneys before getting on Astroman.

I'm further puzzled by the question because it's like asking "how do I get better climbing 5.10 hand cracks?" Well, start by climbing some 5.7 hand cracks, learn the technique, build strength and fitness, then progress to 5.8, 5.9, etc.

Not really.  Hand cracks protect easily with regular-sized cams.  Squeeze chimneys often don't.  Also, hand cracks are common.  Squeeze chimneys are not.  I've climbed most of the well-protected squeeze chimneys that I know of.  I know there are many more that I don't know of, hence my post.  

In that respect, start on your training climbs, learn to heel-toe jam, inhale to get yourself good and stuck, then exhale while keeping the back of your arms on the wall against your back and your palms (fingers down) on the wall in front of you. Inch your way up, in hale and get stuck, then repeat ad nauseum until you're through the squeeze. Squeezes are slow. You can't blast up them the way you do a finger, off-hand, hand, or fist crack. Smooth, steady, one solid position to the next - even if it's inches at a time; don't thrutch. Monitor your heart rate - don't let it get too high. Learn the techniques - heel-toe, correct arm position, etc. Go do easy chimneys like Schiester, building up to doing routes at Arch Rock like Entrance Exam, Midterm, or English Breakfast crack.

Or just do what Alexey suggests, which sounds like the optimal ratio of pleasure and pain. Chimneys are like that.  

Thanks, good advice here.  Keeping the heart rate low is something I need to work on.  I'm very comfortable on chimneys like Scheister (it's 5.7), and I plan to spend some more time at Arch Rock since it seems to be cooling down.  Any tips on shoulder positioning and rotation?

There's also Self Abuse at Sugarloaf, though it's not really that tight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVrKGl3Xli8

TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT, whatever man just take it and go!

I usually end up turning diagonal/sideways in tight squeeze chimneys and use my leading arm to chicken wing and hold my progress while my lower arm, arm bars. My legs are in the "froggy position" opposing pressure between butt and knee and knee and heal, most of the upward progress comes from my lower leg pushing me up (because I'm kinda sideways). if its a little bigger like the upper part of the narrows then both my arms are arm baring so my palms are pushing on the wall in front of me with fingers facing down and elbows on the same wall as my backs on. Again my legs are in the froggy position. From here my arms help assist with scooting my shoulders up and my legs help working my butt upwards., pretty much the same thing but slightly less sideways.null Usually if I start feeling tired I just pause and breath and remind myself I'm in a secure position and I'm not really using any energy when I'm not moving. Pretty much what adam P said. hope that helps a bit! I imagine pete whitakers new book will have some good info on this as well.