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Big wall training in the gym

Original Post
Jesse Scarborough · · Menlo Park, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 90

1. Hauling
     I weigh 145lbs. My haul bag weighs 180lbs. Getting it up a few feet is hard and wears me out. What are some gym workouts that can help with this? Squats? Fly pulldowns?
2. Big racks
     No full ultralight rack for me yet, so I've got a mix of C4s, totems, and a few ULs. What's a good way to train for this endurance? I've been doing crack laps with a ~20lb weight vest, is that enough?
3. Eyeball hygiene
     Contact lenses are a pain when camping on the ground. At 1000' I'm even more worried about the contacts getting blown away, losing my solution, and getting dry eyes. What have other people done about this? 

Noah R · · Burlington, VT · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0
Jesse Scarborough wrote: 1. Hauling
     I weigh 145lbs. My haul bag weighs 180lbs. Getting it up a few feet is hard and wears me out. What are some gym workouts that can help with this? Squats? Fly pulldowns?
Bring less stuff? Are you hauling your follower as well?

2. Big racks
     No full ultralight rack for me yet, so I've got a mix of C4s, totems, and a few ULs. What's a good way to train for this endurance? I've been doing crack laps with a ~20lb weight vest, is that enough?
3. Eyeball hygiene
     Contact lenses are a pain when camping on the ground. At 1000' I'm even more worried about the contacts getting blown away, losing my solution, and getting dry eyes. What have other people done about this? 

2 pairs of glasses one as a backup. Use croakies

Alec Sluser · · Concord CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 26

1. There are different hauling techniques one can utilize if strength is not their not their friend. A 2:1 hauling method or space hauling are just a couple techniques. On this forum, there are climbers who are smaller than you taking up loads twice the size. It can be done, you just have to know what techniques work for you.

2. You are aid climbing I suppose? An overall better physical shape will be more beneficial to you as opposed to “sick forearm workouts”. If you are aid climbing, you gotta suck it up. You have to  deal with the heavy bags, all the gear you thought you needed but really don’t and now the jingles of your rack of hexes you thought you needed for the sweet C1 pitch are taunting you every time you move. You can wear a chest rack to help disperse the weight of your gear, or look at the pitch beta beforehand and leave some gear in the haul bag.

3. Good luck.

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

I do standard BarBell workouts.. (check out Starting Strength)
Squats/Dead’s/Bench/Press/ plus Pull-Ups and Dips

I run (not tons, maybe 7-10miles a week)

I do about 10 hilly miles a week walking/hiking with a 50lb vest

I mostly boulder (some routes) in the gym

You want a generally strong body for walls, and very strong legs for humping and hauling. You need aerobic endurance for all day stamina- and when 2:1 Hauling is done right, it feels like a CrossFit class. The 50lb vest will really help with humping loads to the base and developing the musculature for shouldering a heavy double big wall rack.. I find I don’t free tons on walls, so the bouldering keeps you on your game when you need to do a few weird moves.. 

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Be in alligator wrestling shape.

Jesse Scarborough · · Menlo Park, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 90
Mark Hudon wrote: Be in alligator wrestling shape.

I've filed complaints on several occasions, but my gym simply refuses to import alligators for me to wrestle in the bouldering area. 

George Foster · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 12
Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 916
Jesse Scarborough wrote:

I've filed complaints on several occasions, but my gym simply refuses to import alligators for me to wrestle in the bouldering area. 

Prob because Trump has all the gater stock in the US backordered for the border wall moat

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70
Jesse Scarborough wrote: 1. Hauling
     I weigh 145lbs. My haul bag weighs 180lbs. Getting it up a few feet is hard and wears me out. What are some gym workouts that can help with this? Squats? Fly pulldowns?
2. Big racks
     No full ultralight rack for me yet, so I've got a mix of C4s, totems, and a few ULs. What's a good way to train for this endurance? I've been doing crack laps with a ~20lb weight vest, is that enough?
3. Eyeball hygiene
     Contact lenses are a pain when camping on the ground. At 1000' I'm even more worried about the contacts getting blown away, losing my solution, and getting dry eyes. What have other people done about this? 

1. I weigh 143 lbs and I'm old. Never had a problem. I use a 2:1 until half the water is done; then 1:1

2. Aid anything that isn't 5.9?

3. I wear glasses. And bring 3 pairs.
Ned Plimpton · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 116

Aren’t you supposed to do big wall aid climbs off the couch?

Ron O · · middle of nowhere, southern… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

I do.

138 pounds, so I try not to haul bags over 65

If you have good technique the gear does most of the work. Learn to topstep and become more efficient.

Good technique comes from experience. Experience comes from bad technique.

Christian George · · Home-yes, Town- no · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Gym?
Good grief, you train for walls at a BAR!

No one else pointed out the obvious solution... eat more bacon, gain 30 pounds.

WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

For Hauling:
Deadlifts, front squats and thrusters
weights will be determined by your strength

Id use something like:
DL: 225
Front Squat: 185
Thruster: 95

Do something along the lines of:

15 min - EMOM (Every minute on the minute)
6 - (pick exercise)

or
3 Rounds -
10 min EMOM- exercise
rest 3 mins

Work on building a functional strength basis first and then start bring into the heavy breathing with things like this.

Darrell Cornick · · Salem, OR · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 5

I bought a 30 pack daily disposable contacts and saved them for walls. Suck the aluminum oxide off your fingers and pop em in. Worked well for me. 

WoodyW · · Alaska · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 70

Besides getting a barbell in your hands or on your shoulders to build overall strength, get a pair of etriers and a couple draws, load up your harness with gear and work on bolt ladder speed. Most climbing gyms have a bolt ladder somewhere in a corner or can make one easily. Bolt ladders are a good way to practice your A0/C1 speed and efficiency.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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