Best lightweight 60m rope

Thinking about buying a 60m rope for alpine trad with looooong approaches. I want skinny and lightweight because I'm a cardio wimp with weak legs. Got a lightweight rope you love? How skinny and lightweight would you go?

If weight is your criteria, then weigh the ropes (and  by that I mean the actual weight of 60m in the bag, not the "g/m" x 60m measured by the manufacturer)...don't go by diameter.  You'll probably find that a 9.0mm or a 9.1mm weighs about the same as a 8.7 or 8.9mm. For weighing ropes one of those hand-held electronic scales they sell for weighing luggage (0 - 75 lbs to the nearest 0.1 lb) works pretty well, along with some cord so you can weigh it still in the bag.

As for "how skinny"?  Depends on what you might be doing:  Short roped, simlu climbing along a ridge where one person might have to jump of the :other side"...you want to do this with a 8.7mm???  But on snow followed by easy ice and a bit of rock...sure thing....maybe even an 8.0 or 8.3 "half rope".  The 9.0 / 9.2's are a pretty good compromise.  

Another question: do you really need 60m?  If a 50m works, you can save lbs and $$$'s. 

Inb4 Beal Opera 8.5 fanboys 48 g/m blah blah blah

Aramid cover cut resistant skinny ropes are the next big thing.   gearjunkie.com/edelrid-swif…

The one having the most fun :D

Get a fat half rope, you’re not taking whippers at that distance of approach. The skinny singles are thin sheath and fat core which doesn’t matter in real world use (you’re not take 5 factor two falls in a couple minutes).

 Sheath cut resistance in an alpine rope matters more. More sheath, less core. I used an 8mm half as a single a few times, I wouldn’t go that small as a single, didn’t give me a warm fuzzy feeling looking down at it. 8.5 mammut half would be a solid bet

the easiest way to cut 5 pounds from your kit is to lose 5 pounds. A skinny rope is going to cut like 1% off your total weight, its a psychological advantage.

The best way to cut is to bring less, usually pro, water, other niceties...

Its true alot of people could lose wieght and bring the bodyfat and lean mass % into a more preferred ratio.

And to spray. When i am peaking i weigh about 190lbs and climb reasonably hard. According to "inbody" i am 4-5% body fat at that weight.

For an objective with a big hike ill be bringing

8.5mm  X60m @48g
5mm tagline @20g
18-22gram biners
ultralight cams.
Thinest dynema floss
Petzl sitta  UL type harness
And the least amount of extras

All of it if you do all of it adds up to about 10lbs.  But you have to do it all and you have to keep your  rack pretty sparse.

But... if your body comp was more average

5ft9 160-170, between 10-18% body fat.
The smartest thing you could do for your life and climbing is to loose body fat and gain as much lean mass as possible. 

Are you thinking the rope is a single rope or are you willing to use a double/twin as a single or do you want doubles/twins?

How likely are you to fall? How concerned are you about the rope being cut?

If i were trying to go very light i would take something like 8mm twin, fold it in half to use as twin for short difficult pitches, use as single for long easy pitches.  I would carry a beal escaper rather than a tag line for full length rappels.  Get a belay device that has a chance of working using the rope as a single.  Alpine guide?

For a little more weight and bulk a 8.6ish mm triple rate rope would be my default pick. I love my mammut serenity.  If i were to buy next year i would strongly consider the elderid amamid fiber rope mentioned above.

These choices reduce your margin of safety and need to be carefully considered.  But you said alpine climbing which implies more risk.

Best way to get your cardio in shape is to carry a pack uphill.  Consider it training.

So you guys are saying that to drop 5lbs I can:

A) Exercise frequently and eat balanced meals

or...

B) Eat whatever the f* I want and watch TV all night, but pay a couple of Gs for ultralight gear??

Option B dude. This is America. Option B all the way!!    

Edit- I actually forgot to post any useful feedback. I have the Mammut Serenity 8.7 and the Beal Opera 8.5. The weight difference is negligible but I think the Opera may weigh a little more (contrary to what the spec sheet says). I think the Serenity handles much better, but I’ve had it for longer so it’s hard to compare. Both are really nice, but if I had to choose one I’d probably go with the Serenity. The Edelrid post above looks interesting. 

Chris K wrote: Inb4 Beal Opera 8.5 fanboys 48 g/m blah blah blah

Btw, what's with the hate towards that rope? There seem to be quite a few people who don't like it, but why ... Is it the rope or the users?

Appreciate all the input so far! I will check out all the ropes mentioned.

To answer a few questions -

Robert Hall - Maybe I should say "backcountry" rather than "alpine". No ice or glacier travel, no simul-climbing unless the terrain is dead easy, nothing too crazy. Just your basic long multi-pitch where there's enough mileage on the approach and descent that rope weight matters. One climb I'm prepping for is Snake Dike - low chance of rope cutting, low chance of falling, but if I do fall it could be a long scary ride.

Nick Drake - interesting discussion of sheath vs. core. Thanks for that.

Climber Pat, thanks for the reminder to check the specs on my belay devices. I carry an ATC guide and add an ATC pilot if my partner will be leading. (Yes, carrying two devices is extra weight, but not much, and I like the extra security of the assisted braking on the Pilot for my leader). The guide can handle down to 7.7mm. The pilot is good to 8.7mm, so that's probably the lowest I will go for my next rope purchase.

In general -

Not willing to do 50m because that's just not useful in enough situations anymore.

A skinny 60m rope will shave ~3+ lbs over my current 9.9 Maxim 70m Glider rope, which is significant when you're hauling it for 16 miles and 5000 ft of elevation gain.

Yes, I'm training too. Strength, cardio, and climbing, including hiking and climbing with a pack.

Yes, I'm thinking about other ways to pare back and shave weight on my gear.

Losing body fat is not an option. I'm already well into the athletic / underfat zone. Stronger legs/lungs and lighter gear are my only options to make this easier.

L Kap wrote: Appreciate all the input so far! I will check out all the ropes mentioned.

To answer a few questions -

Robert Hall - Maybe I should say "backcountry" rather than "alpine". No ice or glacier travel, no simul-climbing unless the terrain is dead easy, nothing too crazy. Just your basic long multi-pitch where there's enough mileage on the approach and descent that rope weight matters. One climb I'm prepping for is Snake Dike - low chance of rope cutting, low chance of falling, but if I do fall it could be a long scary ride.

Nick Drake - interesting discussion of sheath vs. core. Thanks for that.

Climber Pat, thanks for the reminder to check the specs on my belay devices. I carry an ATC guide and add an ATC pilot if my partner will be leading. (Yes, carrying two devices is extra weight, but not much, and I like the extra security of the assisted braking on the Pilot for my leader). The guide can handle down to 7.7mm. The pilot is good to 8.7mm, so that's probably the lowest I will go for my next rope purchase.

In general -

Not willing to do 50m because that's just not useful in enough situations anymore.

A skinny 60m rope will shave ~3+ lbs over my current 9.9 Maxim 70m Glider rope, which is significant when you're hauling it for 16 miles and 5000 ft of elevation gain.

Yes, I'm training too. Strength, cardio, and climbing, including hiking and climbing with a pack.

Yes, I'm thinking about other ways to pare back and shave weight on my gear.

Losing body fat is not an option. I'm already well into the athletic / underfat zone. Stronger legs/lungs and lighter gear are my only options to make this easier.

Gotta  be careful with those ATC minimum numbers.  The ones you are quoting are for double/twin use not single.    For single ropes the diameters for ATC guide is 9-11.  If going with skinny rope as a single you really want an ATC Alpine Guide whose single range is 8.5 - 9 mm.  I would recommend the alpine guide over the pilot too.  You will be much happier if someone takes a high fall factor fall.  Also with ATC Alpine guides you will not be forced into simul rappelling or other blocking techniques when rappelling.  

I have used a single 7.7mm twin rope many times on moderate rock routes, but prefer to use a 9.2mm single for anything with long pitches (prevents doubling over the twin rope to achieve a full-strength system) or harder than 5.7 (I'm weak and could fall off).

I've got a triple rated Sterling Nano IX dry, light, not too soft, very dry, decent sheath. Good impact/stretch ratings.
My other choice was the Mammut Serenity Triple rated UIAA dry.

Now if I could loose 30 pounds I'd be flying up the cliff.

weighmyrack.com is a cool website that will list all the ropes on the market based on weight...

Luc-514 wrote: I've got a triple rated Sterling Nano IX dry, light, not too soft, very dry, decent sheath. Good impact/stretch ratings.
My other choice was the Mammut Serenity Triple rated UIAA dry.

Now if I could loose 30 pounds I'd be flying up the cliff.

I absolutely loved my Sterling Nano IX!!! Used it for full time duty on sport and trad.

The Serenity seems much much easier to wear out and I only use it when I want to go light for long approaches and/or easier climbing. I don't trust it as much

Zach Harrison wrote: the easiest way to cut 5 pounds from your kit is to lose 5 pounds. A skinny rope is going to cut like 1% off your total weight, its a psychological advantage.

I hate this argument.  You don't know who's reading this or how big the op is.  I'm 5'10" and 157lbs Should I really lose weight?

But to the OPs question:  if it's easier climbing with and you simul a lot I've used a half rope folded in half to make a 30m twin.  Still get full raps

Zacks wrote:

I hate this argument.  You don't know who's reading this or how big the op is.  I'm 5'10" and 157lbs Should I really lose weight?

No, for cases like yourself you should eat more and put some muscle on so you can carry your own pack. This aint sport wankin sonny

climber pat wrote:

Gotta  be careful with those ATC minimum numbers.  The ones you are quoting are for double/twin use not single.    For single ropes the diameters for ATC guide is 9-11.  If going with skinny rope as a single you really want an ATC Alpine Guide whose single range is 8.5 - 9 mm.  I would recommend the alpine guide over the pilot too.  You will be much happier if someone takes a high fall factor fall.  Also with ATC Alpine guides you will not be forced into simul rappelling or other blocking techniques when rappelling.  

Or just add a second carabiner. I've caught quite a few falls on one strand of 7.5-8mm half rope and done single strand raps just fine. 

That said I might still get one of the new guides this year for ice because less faff with two carabiners would be nice in the thick gloves I belay with, that's not an issue on rock. 

Nick Drake wrote:

Or just add a second carabiner. I've caught quite a few falls on one strand of 7.5-8mm half rope and done single strand raps just fine. 

That said I might still get one of the new guides this year for ice because less faff with two carabiners would be nice in the thick gloves I belay with, that's not an issue on rock. 

You are right a second carabineer works fine.  I just don't see people belaying with a second carabineer when they should.  It is easier to point them to the right tool that they are likely to use correctly.