Mountain Project Logo

Switzerland in mid-October? What can we climb?

Original Post
Brett Millard · · Kelowna, BC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 10

I am flying into Zurich on Oct 12th with my wife and have to be back in Zurich on the 19th so we have 1 week to go climb somewhere.  Are there any decent multi-pitch areas that are lower elevation?  I read about the "valley crags" in Chamonix and sounds like they will be ok but not sure where else we should be looking?  

Lake Como area in Italy?  

Any chance of doing something higher up in Chamonix or will it be snowing by then?  

Trying to find multi-pitch climbs (sport or trad) that are 5.10 and under.  

Any suggestions?  

SNaert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

It could be snowing, but you should check the forecast the days before you leave. There was already snow a couple of weeks ago, most of it is already gone again.

I do not really have experience with multipitch climbing in Switzerland, but I do have some of the guidebooks for east and central switzerland, I can send you some pdfs if you are looking at a particular place. There are however so many climbs to choose from and I would expect that the weather might be a big factor...

Some areas that I know:
- Bockmattli
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17012#maps
- Mittagfluh
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3194

If the weather in the mountains is not good, you could try the Jura, for example:
- Bamflue: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18747
- Rocher du Grandval: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18796
- Bonnes Fontaines: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16758
- Eulengrat: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18783
- Arête Speciale: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=18793
- Le Paradis: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=16750

This one is high up, but the route Motorhead is famous and beautiful
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2113

Mark P. · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 1,852

I'd recommend looking at Ticino, or further south. It's typically warmer down there, and if you're on a south-facing route you should be pretty set.

Try looking at Freggio, Osogna, or Ponte Brolla. All have multi-pitch routes.

If the weather holds and you're lucky, then there's some pretty accessible multipitch that is fantastic north of the Alps:

Check out Hintisberg or Steingletscher. Those are my favorite easily accessible multipitch areas, with climbs about 6 pitches in length. They're also not very committing so if the weather turns it's easy to bail and walk back to the car.

Brett Millard · · Kelowna, BC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 10

Looks like some great suggestions, thanks guys!  

I find the ukclimbing.com pages really hard to navigate and lacking info.  Any better sites to look at?

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Weather will be hit or miss then in northern Italy, but potentially perfect.  I'm heading out to Umbria/ Trentino next week and it's been pretty prime from the looks of it.  You could check out Mello valley or Como, I've always had decent luck finding climbing vids of people in the area, then writing them on facebook for some beta.  Check out climb europe as well:
http://www.climb-europe.com/EuropeanRockClimbingAreas.html

SNaert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Brett Millard wrote: Looks like some great suggestions, thanks guys!  

I find the ukclimbing.com pages really hard to navigate and lacking info.  Any better sites to look at?

The ukclimbing website is more like a logbook website and provides basic info about location and grades (I use it as a logbook and try to add the info of the crags I visit and that are lacking on the website). You could check thecrag, 27crags, http://topodb.ch (in german), ... but most of these websites have limited information about the routes and none of them have all the crags

Best would be to get the guidebooks:
- Filidor produces some climbing books for switzerland (the ones that I have provide german, french and english translations): https://www.filidor.ch/Pages/BookGroup.aspx?Id=1
- SAC (Swiss alpine club) guidebooks, the ones I have are only in german: https://www.sac-cas.ch/de/shop/buecher/ 

I have
- filidor plaisir east ( filidor.ch/Pages/Book.aspx?…),
- filidor plaisir Jura ( filidor.ch/Pages/Book.aspx?…),
- SAC central east and central west ( sac-cas.ch/de/shop/buecher/… )
and am happy to provide you with some more info about a particular area you have in mind.
Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739

Usually if it's wet on the north side of the alps, its drier on the south side (and vice versa). So just check the weather forecasts and you'll have options. If it's wet on the Northside, then definitely check out Ticino (as Mark P said). Good gneiss multipitch and it's easy to get to from Zurich. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

International
Post a Reply to "Switzerland in mid-October? What can we climb?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.