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Home climbing woody/small climbing gym

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Jed Ngo · · Taichung, TW · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Hey all!

I have a question/situation I was hoping someone could shed some light on. I'll jump to the chase: I work at a school climbing gym but whoever designed the bouldering wall didn't leave room between the actual walls of the building and the backs of the climbing wall. Due to this, it's impossible to replace popped out T-nuts without literally taking off the entire climbing wall panel and changing them out.

Does anyone have any alternatives to T-nuts? Or somehow replacing them from the outside of the wall? I've been looking at "threaded inserts" for a T-nut alternative. anyone with experience with these, are these load bearing? I've linked them at the bottom of this thread. My main concern with these are with the super overhanging walls. Any advice is helpful!

"Threaded Inserts" link: amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Hex-F…;linkCode=df0&hvadid=312395299137&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16820579486564976107&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031119&hvtargid=pla-569771166473&psc=1

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,415

So you're limited to screw ons.  Two options.  One is to buy screw-on only holds.  Atomik has a solid lineup:
https://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/screw-on-holds

The other option is impressive.  Escape Climbing just came out with the Lonestar.  Turn any hold into a screw on!
https://escapeclimbing.com/collections/hardware/products/the-lonestar-pack

Hannah Willett · · Menomonee Falls, WI · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 20

I've used the Lonestar on my home wall; it's pretty nice to fill some gaps, but would be quite expensive to buy a large number of them.

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,611

Though it might not look nice, you could attach a small section of panel (piece of plywood) directly over the old. Put t-nuts in the new section, then screw the new section over the old. 

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
Jed Ngo wrote: Hey all!

I have a question/situation I was hoping someone could shed some light on. I'll jump to the chase: I work at a school climbing gym but whoever designed the bouldering wall didn't leave room between the actual walls of the building and the backs of the climbing wall. Due to this, it's impossible to replace popped out T-nuts without literally taking off the entire climbing wall panel and changing them out.

Since it's not your wall, the owners need to decide if they only want you to patch it for the short term, or fix it for the long haul.    

Andrew Child · · Corvallis, Or · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,552

I don't think that threaded inserts would be a strong enough connection in plywood

Matthew R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

I’d trust those inserts to hold up a picture frame, maybe. No way they can hold up to a person yanking on them. I’d be surprised if they lasted one pull, and, even if they did last for a couple days they are definitely going to pull out eventually. When they do, the wall will be ruined. 

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15

An alternative to attaching plywood as a patch would be to acquire some volumes.

This is just the first link that came up for me, but just for clarity these kinds of things... dimensionvolumes.com/

Jed Ngo · · Taichung, TW · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the replies and input!!! It means a lot that people are willing to help. 

Walt Heenan · · New Paltz, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Is the wall framed with vertical 2x6s behind it? If so, you could cut an inch tall hole just above the wall's bottom plate. Then you could thread a weighted cord into the old hole, attach a t-nut by threading through the t-nut hole, and pull the t-nut up to the back side of the wall. With and awl or other slender tool, you could position the t-nut back in the hole. If you could get the t-nut to stick enough to thread a bolt & washer, you could reset the nut by cranking down on the bolt. Might take a bit of trial and error and in the end may be more work than pulling down the offending panels.

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25
Jon Nelson wrote: Though it might not look nice, you could attach a small section of panel (piece of plywood) directly over the old. Put t-nuts in the new section, then screw the new section over the old. 

This would leave you with the problem of only being able to use bolts of a fairly precise length.

It seems to me that most of these work arounds aren't much easier than just taking down the panels and reinstalling the t-nuts. I mean, how often do they really need changing? Alternatively you could just move the frame out from the wall a couple feet so that you have room to replace them.
Hannah Willett · · Menomonee Falls, WI · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 20
Ryan Pfleger wrote:

This would leave you with the problem of only being able to use bolts of a fairly precise length.

Not if you line up the new hole with the old one. 

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25
Aaron Willett wrote:

Not if you line up the new hole with the old one. 

Hadn't thought of that. Lining them up might be tricky.

Hannah Willett · · Menomonee Falls, WI · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 20

You can just drill the hole in the new piece, then stick a bolt through it to line them up before affixing the new one.

Jed Ngo · · Taichung, TW · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0
Walt Heenan wrote: Is the wall framed with vertical 2x6s behind it? If so, you could cut an inch tall hole just above the wall's bottom plate. Then you could thread a weighted cord into the old hole, attach a t-nut by threading through the t-nut hole, and pull the t-nut up to the back side of the wall. With and awl or other slender tool, you could position the t-nut back in the hole. If you could get the t-nut to stick enough to thread a bolt & washer, you could reset the nut by cranking down on the bolt. Might take a bit of trial and error and in the end may be more work than pulling down the offending panels.

have you done this before? it's genius. i'm def going to give this a go. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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