First Day Climbing at Rumney - Looking for Recomendations!

Hi All,

Climbing at Rumney for the first time ever tomorrow and we are looking for some crag recommendations. Seeking a crag that has ample, high quality 11s with a couple of 10s to warm up on and a couple of 11ds, 12as to sample.  Also looking for a mix of sun and shade.  I got tired of scouring each crag individually so I figured I would just reach out and ask those who know best.

thanks!

Best 11s at rumney are at orange crush. They are all really good. The crusher is 11d it's hard, it's good. My other favorites are probably black mamba and lions and tigers and bears. Burried treasure and prime climb are also cool too. You can do a bunch of good 10s at main cliff before going to OC.

Warm up at Main Cliff, or Bonsai. Then head to Orange Crush

Summit cliff

Rumney is great for 10's and 12's but weak in 11's I think.
Best in Order:
FIRST - Bonsai warm up- Peer Pressure and centerpiece all the 10d you could want. (some 11's and 12's but not my favorites)
 NEXT hit up Waimea- Everything is good, classic routes all over - Flying Hawaiian will be an 11b you wont forget.
 END at Orange Crush and get in some class 11's Black Mamba 11b, The Crusher 11d or Tropicana 11a

just my opinion. It seems to flow with the hikes too.

If you're midweek you'll likely have open anything you wanted to get on. I avoid main cliff and lower crags on weekends when possible.

Orangahang, Social Outcast, Stoned Temple Pilot are nice entry level 12a's. Peanut Man on Main Cliff is a fantastic route but quite hard for the grade. All pretty beta intensive.

Was there a few weeks ago.  Bonsai is the most beautiful collection of rock I have sever seen.  You might be tempted to stop at the Main Wall on your way to Bonsai, but when you finally get there you'll curse yourself for taking time away from the world class rocks.

Ska Ggs wrote: Rumney is great for 10's and 12's but weak in 11's I think.
Best in Order:
FIRST - Bonsai warm up- Peer Pressure and centerpiece all the 10d you could want. (some 11's and 12's but not my favorites)
 NEXT hit up Waimea- Everything is good, classic routes all over - Flying Hawaiian will be an 11b you wont forget.
 END at Orange Crush and get in some class 11's Black Mamba 11b, The Crusher 11d or Tropicana 11a

just my opinion. It seems to flow with the hikes too.

If you're midweek you'll likely have open anything you wanted to get on. I avoid main cliff and lower crags on weekends when possible.

This is a terrible take. Orange Crush is comprised of stellar 11s. That wall alone makes Rumney great for 11s. 

Yeah I'd echo warming up at Main Cliff (Underdog 10a/b and Sweet Polly Purebred 10c), and/or Armed and Dangerous area (left side of Main: Armed, Dangerous, and Off My Medication 10b, Clusterphobia 10d, Cereal Killer 11c). Then go to Orange Crush for 11s: Tropicana 11a (many people do just the first awesome pitch, but the second is great too and worth doing), Black Mamba 11b (or c if you do the full line), Prime Climb 11b, Buried Treasure 11b, Crusher 11d. At Orange Crush, Orangahang is a great, hard 12a/b, Captain Hook is a good crimpy 12a.

If you find yourself at Orangahang and want another great 12a that's better than Captain Hook, walk across to Bonsai and do Social Outcast 12a.

thank you all for the thoughtful responses.  what a great crag.  already looking forward to the next visit!