Gear needed to start setting up top rope routes

So I have all the gear for gym climbing (Shoes, Harness, Belay devices), but I was hoping to get some suggestions for ropes, quickdraws, slings, etc. For clarity, ideally, I would not lead the climb to start, just set up the anchor from the top and come down.

Bonus question: What is the easiest yet safe way to set up a top-rope anchor?

I copied your post title, googled it, clicked the first result and found all the info you need:

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/set-and-clean-anchors.html

This is just one way to do it.  Best to make friends with someone who has some knowledge to share with you.  Good luck!

I recommend buying a FAT, durable rope that can handle abuse.

For anchoring equipment, it depends on what is at the top of the crag. Check the MP pages or guidebooks to find out what you'll need. You can also ask on your region's MP sub-forum.

If there are typically bolts, some short lengths of cord or webbing is fine. If not, it's nice to have some longer lengths of static rope to sling natural anchors like boulders and trees, which can be far from the edge.

I like to use triple-action auto-locking biners to connect the rope to the master point for some extra peace of mind, especially when the anchor is going to be out-of-sight from the ground.

Bonus question: What is the easiest yet safe way to set up a top-rope anchor?

There is really no hard way to set a TR anchor. The safe way is to keep yourself roped up when you're near the edge. If it's dangerous to get near the edge, I like to bring my climbing rope up with me, tie it to a tree or something further back, and use a grigri or friction hitch to keep myself backed up as I approach the edge.

+1 for the REI anchor building class. My girlfriend and I took that when we started transitioning from gym to crag and it provided a good overview of basic anchors and anchor situations. Not dead yet. Also, Climbing Anchors by John Long and Bob Gaines covers a lot of information that will be useful if you climb in areas that require yiu to build anchors with gear you place yourself.

I would ​start here.​​​

Marc H wrote: I would start here.

Oh boy just like the skate community, people who get remotely decent at it become the most condescending people possible to beginners, cant wait!

Best gear: buy a book!

Ty Farrar wrote:

Oh boy just like the skate community, people who get remotely decent at it become the most condescending people possible to beginners, cant wait!

Sincerely not trying to snark at you here, just trying to provide some perspective.

It's more that its hard to answer the same beginner questions over and over when they are researchable.  There's books, classes, videos and websites devoted to providing the information needed to get started in things like this and yet somehow people repeatedly fail to use those resources and instead expect others to answer these questions for them.  There's risk in self learning these things as you're obviously limited to the information you get from whatever venue you choose but at least you get to pick based on your way of learning and comfort.  Then you can add more sources to compare  and THEN if you want more "expert" (using that word pretty fucken lightly here) input on comparing and contrasting different approaches that's when its most helpful to ask around. Asking someone else also has a lot of pitfalls, again due to the variation in who gives the response and their own understanding.  But basically you're asking us to try and condense all the information out there for you into a blip and do so in a way that is complete and hopefully won't kill you.

Anyway I could ramble on and on but basically don't blame someone else for being annoyed by your question.  Yes sometimes the response could be better written but the burden isn't just and the person giving an answer when it comes to whether a question gets a good response.

Mark A wrote:

Sincerely not trying to snark at you here, just trying to provide some perspective.

It's more that its hard to answer the same beginner questions over and over when they are researchable.  There's books, classes, videos and websites devoted to providing the information needed to get started in things like this and yet somehow people repeatedly fail to use those resources and instead expect others to answer these questions for them.  There's risk in self learning these things as you're obviously limited to the information you get from whatever venue you choose but at least you get to pick based on your way of learning and comfort.  Then you can add more sources to compare  and THEN if you want more "expert" (using that word pretty fucken lightly here) input on comparing and contrasting different approaches that's when its most helpful to ask around. Asking someone else also has a lot of pitfalls, again due to the variation in who gives the response and their own understanding.  

Anyway I could ramble on and on but basically don't blame someone else for being annoyed by your question.  Yes sometimes the response could be better written but the burden isn't just and the person giving an answer when it comes to whether a question gets a good response.

I agree with the majority of what you're saying, but I don't understand the point of a "beginner climber" forum if people are just going to be told to not even try starting... I have read many articles on the subject, but I was trying to avoid purchasing books and was looking to just get some recommendations and reasoning from other climbers who also were inexperienced at one point. I think that articles and books often assume that the reader understands lots of the climbing equipment jargon etc. I like using forums because I am able to get a dumbed-down "Explain it like I am five" type answer before I go and do the real research, but that seems to be frowned upon here...

I think the opposite approach would be more beneficial.  Do the research on anchor systems first then ask around forums for clarification and tips.  Not only will you gain a wealth of necessary knowledge to stay safe, but you're also demonstrating to others that you have the initiative to do so.  There are different solutions to different scenarios, but in any case always practice first!

second the REI anchor building class.  Ask the instructor for gear recommendations based on the crags you have in mind, then practice rigging and cleaning the systems you end up purchasing from the comfort of your couch.

Marc H wrote: I would start here.

some classic satire.  Another reason to frequent the forum.

Best of luck

T G wrote:

Ignore those people because they're just being shitty.

Part of the challenge, Ty, is that when we're new at something, we tend to assume that things are simpler than they really are. Your question about the gear and techniques needed to set top rope anchors is really a pretty complex question that encompasses a pretty diverse set of skills and environmental factors. Any simple, straightforward answer you'd get will likely be inadequate and oversimplified. Setting top rope anchors requires an understanding of the pros and cons of various gear (slings, cams, passive gear like nuts, the rope itself, carabiners, etc.), skills in rope management, skills in anchor building and anchor systems with adequate redundancy, rappelling safely (if necessary), etc. And that's just the basic start of it. Listing out a series of suggestions for ropes, slings, carabiners and other gear isn't going to get you any closer to learning about setting top rope anchors – not basic, ideal-scenario anchors – and certainly not less-than-ideal-scenario anchors in the wild (which is most of them).

When people are suggesting that the best way to acquire those skills and that basic knowledge is in person from other experienced people - they mean it. The intent isn't to put you off or dismiss you - it's to steer you in the direction that will provide you with the best -- and likely quickest -- possible start to this long apprenticeship called climbing safely.

Thanks TG, very helpful. I guess I should have clarified that I have experienced climbers willing to take me out/teach me. But I was thinking it may be nice if I purchase some gear ahead of time so I can learn using the gear I will be using going forward.

Ty Farrar wrote:
Bonus question: What is the easiest yet safe way to set up a top-rope anchor?

Here's a bonus question for you..."What would the correct ignition timing be on a 1955 Bel Air Chevrolet with a 327 cubic-inch engine and four-barrel  carburetor?

Yer definitely gunna die

I put some suggestions in your other thread, in the CO partner subforum.

Typically someone has to lead climbs to set up a TR since much of the sport around here doesn't have a walk off.  The exception is Duncan's ridge, which actually has TR/Trad routes with bolted anchors you can set up from the top of the cliff.  It's a good place to learn or climb after work.

Ty Farrar wrote:

Oh boy just like the skate community, people who get remotely decent at it become the most condescending people possible to beginners, cant wait!

Nope, that’s not me. 25+ years in and I’m nowhere near “remotely decent” yet.  Can’t wait to get there tho!

OK, I'll suggest something. 2 2' slings, 2 4' slings, 4 non-locking biners, 4 locking biners, 60' of 9 or 10mm static rope

Ty Farrar wrote: So I have all the gear for gym climbing (Shoes, Harness, Belay devices), but I was hoping to get some suggestions for ropes, quickdraws, slings, etc. For clarity, ideally, I would not lead the climb to start, just set up the anchor from the top and come down.

Bonus question: What is the easiest yet safe way to set up a top-rope anchor?

Just food for thought, a few years back a young woman was killed here at the Gunks when the top rope anchor set up by her beginner friend failed. If I understand the accident correctly the knot on the anchor's webbing was not tied properly and failed. I may not have all the details right but that was the general gist of it. 

Point being, even top roping is serious business.  Books and websites can be great, but actual humans (paid or unpaid) showing you what to do (and not do) is pretty essential. Building practice anchor setups at ground level and testing them might be a good idea too. 

I'll echo the danger part of simply setting a top rope anchor. To do one effectively (and not to die), you need to know how to build a bomber anchor, and that skill is one perfected over many gear placements.

I'd say, "limit yourself to bolted anchors to start", but even that may be dangerous, as those anchors may not be accessible to you in the area you climb at safely from the top of the cliff. I'd say, "limit yourself to tree anchors", but I don't know what type of trees ya got.

It may be best to follow a trad mentor and understand gear placements.

GOOD LUCK!

In exchange for you being a good sport with my wise-assery, I’m happy to go climb a multi-pitch route or two with you in Eldo or Lumpy, if you’re interested in that sort of thing. I can show you what gear I like, why, and how to use it. You can then start deciding what gear you like and don’t like without having to purchase it.

Shoot me a PM if you’re interested.

T G wrote:

Ignore those people because they're just being shitty.

I don't think I was being shitty, I was giving a reason why people respond to these sorts of questions the way they do.  Some might be being shitty but I think most are really more...exasperated at the question.  Because its asking a lot of random people without displaying the necessary self drive to fill in the blanks on ones own.

Part of the challenge, Ty, is that when we're new at something, we tend to assume that things are simpler than they really are. Your question about the gear and techniques needed to set top rope anchors is really a pretty complex question that encompasses a pretty diverse set of skills and environmental factors. Any simple, straightforward answer you'd get will likely be inadequate and oversimplified. Setting top rope anchors requires an understanding of the pros and cons of various gear (slings, cams, passive gear like nuts, the rope itself, carabiners, etc.), skills in rope management, skills in anchor building and anchor systems with adequate redundancy, rappelling safely (if necessary), etc. And that's just the basic start of it. Listing out a series of suggestions for ropes, slings, carabiners and other gear isn't going to get you any closer to learning about setting top rope anchors – not basic, ideal-scenario anchors – and certainly not less-than-ideal-scenario anchors in the wild (which is most of them).

Which is what I said in the "But basically you're asking us to try and condense all the information out there for you into a blip and do so in a way that is complete and hopefully won't kill you." bit.  Basically I can't condense all that information into a short post format without either writing a book someone else has already written or missing things that could get him killed.

Ty Farrar wrote: So I have all the gear for gym climbing (Shoes, Harness, Belay devices), but I was hoping to get some suggestions for ropes, quickdraws, slings, etc. For clarity, ideally, I would not lead the climb to start, just set up the anchor from the top and come down.

Bonus question: What is the easiest yet safe way to set up a top-rope anchor?

If you're learning use your partner's gear. They should already have what you need and it should be good climbing gear. It's also nice to see how it all works before you spend money on stuff that you may not need. The concepts stay the same and if you can't carry the lessons over into setting up your own system then you probably don't understand it well enough yet.

For ropes, get a 70m UIAA certified dynamic single rope from a reputable manufacturer (Beal, Bluewater, Mammut, Petzl, Black Diamond, etc) in the 9.5-10.0 range. Why? Because they'll do the job, last well, and work with just about any belay device. Double check your belay device's manual to make sure it will work with the rope you get. You don't have to spend a ton. I usually shop the sales and end up under $200.

Other things: A 20-30' cordalette of 7mm CLIMBING accessory cord. Go to an REI or JAX Outdoor Gear and they'll have it. You'll also want 4 lockers for the TR if you're setting up off bolts. This is slightly overkill but you'll use them later on anyway and you're better off using lockers on key points until you know when to use and not use lockers. I like to use a Black Diamond Rocklock Magnetron as one of the lockers for the rope to make sure it can't unscrew but there are other options. Tree and gear anchors are a different beast and setup.

As for how to set it up - learn this in person from several experienced people or a certified guide. Why several? Your friend may have a super sketchy way of doing stuff that 9 out of 10 other climbers would not trust their life to. This could be from how they learned, ignorance, or inexperience. I've had other parties tell me that they didn't trust their random partner's methods - and I wouldn't either from what they were doing. By seeing it a few ways you should be able to notice if things are being done very differently and be able to research and ask why. Also some of the worst accidents come from people trying to set up topropes from above with sketchy approaches. Knowing which crags and routes have safe options is something best learned from others and MP doesn't give great info on this.