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Scarpa Phantom Tech vs. La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX?

Original Post
mike again · · Ouray · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 47

I'm considering Scarpa Phantom Tech and La Sportiva La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX for a new pair of ice boots and would welcome thoughts from anyone with experience with both.

I'm interested in replacing my current boots, which are 15 year old Nepal Extremes, with something lighter. I'll use them mostly for ice and mixed climbing, nothing harder than WI5 but interested in stepping up my mixed game from M-baby and M-whatever-I-need-to-scratch-my-way-through-in-poor-ice-conditions to M-moderate. My feet have typically run pretty cold - I have enough room in my Nepals to use toe warmers and do so on colder days. My feet are not particularly narrow (E?), which would suggest trying the Scarpas.

Thanks for any insights.

FWIW, and for reference, here are some threads and review, but not much in the way of direct comparisons in there. Please feel free to point me to other sources.
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111629878/new-scarpa-phantom-tech-ice-boots
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114172144/extremely-cold-in-phantom-techs
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116239168/scarpa-phantom-tech-vs-phantom-6000-warmth
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2016/02/scarpawow-has-it-been-that-long-phantom.html
https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/topics/climbing/best-mountaineering-boot
https://rockandice.com/gear-reviews/climbing-boots/first-look-la-sportiva-trango-ice-cube-gtx/
https://www.thealpinestart.com/2016/04/21/review-la-sportiva-trango-ice-cube-gtx/
https://www.thealpinestart.com/2016/05/09/first-look-scarpa-phantom-tech/
https://blacksheepadventuresports.com/2018/04/07/scarpa-phantom-tech/
https://chickswithpicks.net/scarpa-phantom-tech-review/

Edit: whoops, I meant La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX not ice cubes... still, the below changes the basic request a lot.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I own a pair of Phantom Techs and briefly owned a pair of Trango Evos. While not the Cube I found LaSportivas run narrow compared to Scarpa. Therefore your foot size will determine what brand. The Techs will be warmer. If you find Scarpa fits your foot better try on a pair of Rebel GTXs.

 I have a pair of Techs, 46 and a pair of Rebel GTXs 45.5. I'm in West Portal. You're welcome to stop by and try them on.

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

The la sportiva last destroys my feet, so I go scarpa, but either one isn't going to hold you back climbing M4-5.

Aaron Liebling · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 952

Agreed. This choice is really about fit for your feet and not a qualitative difference between the boots. Try them both on. Also note the usual discussions about different inserts, etc...

Edit: as noted by others, the g5 is the more direct comparison. I got my la sportiva boots mixed up. For the record, I wear phantom tech - love them for pure ice/snow.

Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle and Eastrevy · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 346

These two boots seem a little apples to oranges to me - depending on your usage and foot shape, one should be a clear winner.  

I have only used the Techs so can't help in the comparison but what hasn't been mentioned is the Phantom Techs are getting a complete overhaul for the coming season and look even better (lighter, warmer, better gaiter and zipper) so it may be worth waiting until Fall. Or, all Scarpa was 25% off on Backcountry.com last time I checked.

New Techs shown around 2:15 in this vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ob0Q2rCNQv8

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 448

I agree with Doug, those two boots are not really comparable; the Tech is a warm super gaiter single boot, and the Ice Cube is a very light, minimally insulated lace-up.  If you want to compare the Phantom Techs to a Sportiva boot, look at the G5.  If you want a Scarpa boot like the Ice Cubes, look at the Rebel Pro GTX (discontinued).  Different boots for different purposes.

mike again · · Ouray · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 47

Thanks all - useful thoughts for me. My current Nepals plus a couple pairs of plastic boots before it are the only things I've climbed in or even considered, so this is quite educational and helpful. I just nailed down a full winter season in the mountains this coming year, hence my current rabid state.

Duly noted on fit - I'll let that be the guide, eventually.
Also noted on the update - thanks for that video, looks like a promising refresh.  
To the apples and oranges comment - I was assuming that weight would be a rough indicator for comparison across the lines, and from what I read the Ice Cubes are reputed to be warm as well. But if the Phantom is as light as the Ice Cubes, but warmer, that's my boot as long as the fit is good. Unless there's anything significantly different about how they climb or otherwise move. Would love to hear more comments about purpose and function across these lines, or pointers to where to get that info.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 448

Mike, they are definitely different classes of boots.  The Ice Cubes are 727g, the Techs are 830g.  That might not seem like a big difference, but it definitely is!  For reference, the G5 (Sportiva equivalent to the Tech) is 857g.

Super gaiter single boots like the Phantom Tech and G5 are warm enough for most ice climbing in the lower 48 (can be chilly on frigid days in Bozeman, Cody, or northern New England).  They are also commonly used on winter/spring mountaineering objectives in many places (Cascades, low altitude Alaska, Cordillera Blanca, etc.).  You'll probably see more boots in this class than anything else on a typical day in Hyalite Canyon.

Ice Cube, Trango Tower Extreme, Rebel Tech, and similar boots are lighter and less warm; they're good for warmer ice days, mixed climbing, and technical mountaineering objectives in warmer weather (perhaps N. Ridge of Mt. Baker in summer, for example).

Depending on where you're planning on climbing, it should be a pretty clear distinction which works best for you.

Hope this helps.

mike again · · Ouray · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 47

Kyle, yes, super helpful!

I realize I made a major error in my post - I was looking at the La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX not the ice cubes. Sorry, that was my bad, and very confusing I realize now.

I don't really want a boot quiver, but maybe I'll end up with one... Any way I go, it's going to be lighter than my Nepals, so there's that.

AlpineIce · · Upstate, NY · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 255

If Scarpa fits your foot better than Sportiva, I'd chime in with another vote for Phantom Techs.  For Fall/Winter 2019/2020, Scarpa's releasing an updated Phantom Tech that's reportedly a bit wider in the forefoot, 100 grams lighter than the first-gen Techs, and warmer due to the use of NASA's "Aerogel."  New Phantom Tech report here.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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