Camping in Lander/Ten Sleep

Heading to Wyoming for the first time, where are some good places to camp? Are there particularly popular campgrounds for climbers? I'll be looking for partners so I'm hoping to meet some people there. Thanks!

Hey all! Planning a trip here in the next couple of weeks. Going to be climbing in ALL NEW areas I haven't visited before. Any free camping in the following climbing areas? Oh, also, with COVID-19, could anyone let me know if any of these areas are closed? Thanks!

1. Spearfish (what's the deal with Hanna campground? Free or no? I heard about the meadow. Still free?)
2. Wild Iris
3. Southern Blackhills bouldering
4. Custer State Park

Any suggestions on climbing in Montana? 

​Taylor S wrote:

The whole state is a choss heap. 

Whole state of Montana? Anything worth checking out? We would really like to explore the good quality climbing there and definitely open to some great hikes!

Ten Sleep is Montana’s best sport crag. 

Sweet, thanks! What are everyone's thoughts on Sinks and Wild Iris? I'll be climbing in end of July-beginning of August.

Taylor S wrote: Sweet, thanks! What are everyone's thoughts on Sinks and Wild Iris? I'll be climbing in end of July-beginning of August.

Too hot for sinks except up at Fossil Hill. Iris is good then

My friend and I are staying up at the Iris and always want company. There’s free camping in Ten Sleep Canyon but for finding partners head to the Ten Sleep Rock Ranch

I really enjoy camping at the Ten Sleep Brewing Company.  It's a fun hang and they've got great beer...and showers!  Last time I was there it was $5/night.  I will say that there is little shelter from the sun, so it can get kind of hot there in the height of summer.  

Either way, be sure to stop by the brewery and support a small local business!  They've been nothing but awesome to me and my friends!

Stayed at Hanna last month. Great location and suprisingly good cell service.

Also stayed at the Brewery in Ten on that same trip. Also a great location with cell service, shower, toliet. There are plenty of free camps near the fish hatchery just outside of ten sleep, but no cell service in the canyon.

Jon Frisby wrote:

Too hot for sinks except up at Fossil Hill. Iris is good then

Jon - when you are up at Iris in the summer do you find it manageable to climb during the day (sun; heat) at the Main Wall? Or are you mostly just climbing in the evening for shade and cooler temps. What time does the shade show up for the Main Wall?

1. Spearfish (what's the deal with Hanna campground? Free or no? I heard about the meadow. Still free?)
2. Wild Iris
3. Southern Blackhills bouldering
4. Custer State Park

Hey Taylor,

I am out living in the Black Hills area this summer. Near Spearfish Canyon the meadow camping is still open to my knowlegde.
As for the CSP/Rushmore area, there are lots of options for free camping on Forest Service Land relatively close by, as well as the Wrinkled Rock camping area right outside of Rushmore.

Hope this helps.

JCM wrote:

Jon - when you are up at Iris in the summer do you find it manageable to climb during the day (sun; heat) at the Main Wall? Or are you mostly just climbing in the evening for shade and cooler temps. What time does the shade show up for the Main Wall?

You can climb on the rodeo wave all day. Morning or evening for most other sections of the wall.

Jon Frisby wrote:

Too hot for sinks except up at Fossil Hill. Iris is good then

Thank you for the beta!

Chris Lile wrote:
Hey Taylor,

I am out living in the Black Hills area this summer. Near Spearfish Canyon the meadow camping is still open to my knowlegde.
As for the CSP/Rushmore area, there are lots of options for free camping on Forest Service Land relatively close by, as well as the Wrinkled Rock camping area right outside of Rushmore.

Hope this helps.

It does indeed. Thanks a lot, Chris! Where is the meadow camping? 

can anyone provide a guidebook recommendation?

joe trabucco wrote: can anyone provide a guidebook recommendation?

Lander Rock Climbs 2018 and one of Aaron Huey’s books for Ten Sleep, Swallow The Lightning is the newest one.  They have both of them at Neptune in Boulder.

Courtney H wrote:

Lander Rock Climbs 2018 and one of Aaron Huey’s books for Ten Sleep, Swallow The Lightning is the newest one.  They have both of them at Neptune in Boulder.

I just got the Lander Rock climbs 2018 book. Love it! But it doesn't tell you how many bolts the sport routes have... Is there a way to know the amount of bolts there are? Also, does the book have trad and sport? Can't really tell a huge difference, if any.

why would lander rock climbs have 10sleep?   

I don't know about current lander guide books (mine was written by Paul Piana so its pretty old). but if ten sleep is on the list, get Louis' book. Aarons book is painful to use and he spent more time trying to be cute than informative. Louis' book just came out too.

Taylor S wrote:

I just got the Lander Rock climbs 2018 book. Love it! But it doesn't tell you how many bolts the sport routes have... Is there a way to know the amount of bolts there are? Also, does the book have trad and sport? Can't really tell a huge difference, if any.

Most climbs in lander are fully visible from the ground. Most of the climbs in that guide are sport excepting certain parts of sinks. I believe the trad pro is described vaguely (not nearly as specific as most trad area guides) where applicable. For the best local trad you want to hit Fremont canyon