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Home campusboard setup or similar for power work

Original Post
David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424

A hangboard is fairly straightforward to set up in your home to train strength, but what's a reasonably-sized home setup to train power? The best I can come up with is a few campus rungs which you move further apart as you get stronger.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 356

Weighted pull ups on rings? You can also stagger the rings. Obviously you’re not training contact strength but power will be great. 

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Build a woody with large moves between small holds. You need the coordination of the posterior chain initiation and core tension, not isolation of the fingers/upper body. Actually I would argue that a campus board only reinforces poor technique for many of the people using them. If you're not solidly in the V10 and 13+ range your time is far better spent working power through actual climbing movement. Once you're up in that range your finger strength is in the range that the hold size on commercial woody/system board is likely too large to force further adaptation.

You could easily adapt Rob Mulligan's system training layout here for use on both strength and power:
https://joshuatreebouldering.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/system-training-part-1/

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424
Nick Drake wrote: Build a woody with large moves between small holds.
I don't have room for that.

 If you're not solidly in the V10 and 13+ range your time is far better spent working power through actual climbing movement.
I'm not in the V10/5.13 range. However, I always climb when possible, but don't always have time to drive out and climb. So this is for times where I will either be campusing, or doing absolutely nothing. So I think my time would be better spent campusing than doing nothing.

You could easily adapt Rob Mulligan's system training layout here for use on both strength and power:
https://joshuatreebouldering.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/system-training-part-1/

Thanks, I'll read that over.

Brandon Ribblett · · The road · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 80

un even pull ups, weighted pull ups, power pull ups.

truthfully i dont feel that campusing will be helpful until your climbing around 12+ or so. until then it will probably just lead to injury. 

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
David K wrote: I don't have room for that.

I'm not in the V10/5.13 range. However, I always climb when possible, but don't always have time to drive out and climb. So this is for times where I will either be campusing, or doing absolutely nothing. So I think my time would be better spent campusing than doing nothing.

Thanks, I'll read that over.

Don't think full moonboard size, when you read over the link think about how small you could really build something similar and go from there. You don't need to do full boulder problems, if you've got the height to do 1-2 explosive moves that's all you need.

I'd opt for push ups, dragon flags, rice bucket extension work, get some kettlebells and do one leg romanian deadlifts. Pull strength is so grossly over emphasized in climbing, but that's mainly because learning how to truly engage a flagged foot hard, find subtle toe hooks and other ways to drive by pulling your hips to the wall is a hell of a lot harder to learn and discuss than 1-4-7 or the elusive 1-5-9.  
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392
David K wrote: A hangboard is fairly straightforward to set up in your home to train strength, but what's a reasonably-sized home setup to train power? The best I can come up with is a few campus rungs which you move further apart as you get stronger.

I've used a System Board for a couple decades.   System training is a lot less prone to injury than Campusing and is better full body and movement conditioning.   

If you put some larger holds on it, as well as the "training" holds, you can warm-up easily.  I haven't checked recently but several hold manufacturers made sets of system holds.    Get a good variety: warm-up jugs, pinches, slopers, edges, underclings, gastons, etc.  You can also put campus rungs on it or just not use your feet with the holds you have.

https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-build-symmetry-with-the-systems-board/

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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