Yosemite Finish

Hey Everyone,

I am seeking some info on the correct way to tie a Yosemite finish. I have been using what I thought was the correct method of tying the knot for quite some time now without any issues, however I recently did some research online an I couldn’t find a general consensus on the correct way of doing the Yosemite finish. From what I could find there seems to be three different ways of doing the Yosemite finish, which are depicted in the images below.
Are any of these wrong? Are they all right?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

(I have been tying in with the finish in image 2)

1) 

2)3)

I use #3 because it's the easiest/fastest for me. I don't believe there is anything wrong with using any of the variations you have shown.

I'll take curtain #2 please

They're all "right" in that they finish with the end coming out the bottom of the knot... which people have come to think is nice and out of the way (true) and is easier to untie (not sure of). I've done #3 when trying to look cool (I'm not).

My understanding is that it doesn't matter unless you belay using the loop created by your tie-in knot rather than the harness belay loop (if I am mistaken, somebody please correct me).

I use #3. It is definitely easier to untie after a few lead falls - pulling the tail out makes some room inside the 8 so you have a head start on working it loose. 

Number 2 is the best and easiest to untie.

Double bowline > a knot that is still hard to untie after a 20 footer

Zach D wrote: They're all "right" in that they finish with the end coming out the bottom of the knot... which people have come to think is nice and out of the way (true) and is easier to untie (not sure of). I've done #3 when trying to look cool (I'm KNOT).

Fixed it

I'd worry about cross loading or shock loading the knot, it's also possible that the angle that you force the rope in at when putting it through in #1 could cause what I call microtears, basically the rope equivalent of a microfracture. These occur especially in something like the yosemite finish, where it could force all of your weight onto that one strand that the rope tightens around. I've lost a few friends to microtears, so stick to option 2 or 3.

None of those are strictly speaking correct in my opinion. Although they are all fine. With respect to the yosemite finish there are two ways to tie your initial figure 8, one that is conducive to tying the yosemite finish and one that is not. The knots in the picture are tied in the way that are less conducive to tying the yosemite finish. If the working end exits the figure 8 knot (before finish) on the same side as the pair of rope sections that go back to your harness that is better. So the knot would be in the picture something like load strand, working end, two sections of rope that go back to your harness (left to right). Then the knot dresses far better and you don't either partially capsize the knot or end up with an extra twist in it. Although all of these are almost certainly fine this way dresses the nicest and is the most practical.

This in my opinion is the only correct way, although like I said - it doesn't actually matter that much but I manage a climbing gym and these are the things I think about.

Bryan wrote: None of those are strictly speaking correct in my opinion.

This in my opinion is the only correct way,

Bryan knows what’s up. Start rethreading your 8 when you tie it by going around the outside so the final tail ends up on the inside. Then you can correctly wrap the tail for the Yosemite finish

I do it like Bryan as well.

There are crossloading failure modes for other variations, but it is unlikely to cross load to this degree in real world use: https://vimeo.com/40767916 

I also tie it like Bryan’s photo. Better for that  ring loading scenario and easier for your partner to see that it’s clean. As Drew said start the rethread on the outside , some call this “start hard finish easy”. - Edit

I've been using 2 and it works great

#3 didn’t wrap around the main strand, so I wouldn’t call it a “proper” Yosemite finish but that could just be me.  #2 is how I do it, although I think I tie my 8 more like Bryan’s, as it ends up looking like that.

You and I Bryan, were on the same wavelength.
An incorrectly tied yosemite finish can actually weaken the rope when ring loaded, saw the tests on rope lab. If you use your tie in loop to belay or something like that it ring loads it, something you yanks don't tend to do but is very common in the uk.

Also, tying it Bryan’s way makes the knot easier to untie, even without Yosemite finish. If the loaded line is on the outside, it’s going to cinch hard against the non loaded loops, which will remain loose and squishy, furthering your post fall woes. Having the load line on the inside prevents this, as it tightens over a larger area of the knot.
I’ve never had too much trouble untying a fig 8 done this way

Former Climber wrote:

Again....  Ring load your tie in knot?  How would you even manage this?

Simply not an issue.

If you were to fall and say a QuickDraw clipped the ring of your figure 8 or, more commonly, if you clipped it whilst working a route. 

A ring loaded figure 8 WILL capsize under body weight. This is essentially why people die when they mistie the euro death knot with an extra twist thinking an 8 is superior to an overhand. 

Former Climber wrote:

Again....  Ring load your tie in knot?  How would you even manage this?  And to the point of the knot rolling?

Simply not an issue.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/belaying_-_rope_loop_or_belay_loop-1129

I think it's pretty clear here that former climber simply doesn't actually understand what ring loading is and rather than doing a 5 second Google search he such going to say its not possible.