Wierd Finger Injury

Hey Guys,

I am not a climber but by doing some research I figured that you guys would be more than likely point me in the right direction with my finger injury. Just a very quick background, I was actually recovering from a shoulder injury when I started hanging from a bar to enhance my shoulder strength.Now, I dont know if this is what caused my finger injury or not because the pain in the affected finger did not come much later where I was already taking time off from the GYM to give my shoulder a break.

I have searched all over the internet and I just cannot find what the hell is this injury and need your input really bad. I havent put it in a splint but i have rested my finger with no joy. This has been going on for a few months now.

My Middle Finger Does not hurt when I:
(1) Make a fist
(2) Straighten my hands and fingers
(3) Bend my finger back
(4) Bend my finger to the right

My Middle Finger only hurts when I:
(1) Bend my finger to the left
(2) Bend my finger down

I do not know what kind of injury this is. Like I mentioned, it doesn't hurt at rest and I would be so grateful if I can find out an exercise that will help with this kind of an injury. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Emaad, it sounds like one of two things: Ulnar collateral ligament (UCL) or Radial Collateral Ligament (RCL) injury, depending on which side of the finger.

Your UCL is on the outside (pinky finger side of knuckle) and RCL is on the thumb side. So if it's your left hand and it hurts to bend it to the left (towards your left pinky), then you injured your UCL... just like I did. If it's your right hand and it hurts to bend to the left (i.e. towards your thumb), then it's your RCL.

If the knuckle kind of clicks/pops when you push side ways on the finger while it is it 75% extended, then you probably ruptured or badly tore it. To clarify what I mean by "75% extended", think: high-five position, but drop your injured middle finger about 3", keeping it mostly straight but not flexed (i.e. limp). See image below, but don't lower your finger quite so much.

I recently had a ligament injury, RH index, hurt to push down and to right...it hurt to make a fist, as well. I went and got x-ray after two months with no improvement. Doc said it was ligament and usually pain lasts at least three months. I'm at 7 months now, can climb on it, can finally make a tight fist without pain, but the slightest jam, say like reaching for a paper towel and hitting it straight on into a cabinet, even with very little force, still hurts like hell! Good luck with the healing!

B W wrote: I recently had a ligament injury, RH index, hurt to push down and to right...it hurt to make a fist, as well. I went and got x-ray after two months with no improvement. Doc said it was ligament and usually pain lasts at least three months. I'm at 7 months now, can climb on it, can finally make a tight fist without pain, but the slightest jam, say like reaching for a paper towel and hitting it straight on into a cabinet, even with very little force, still hurts like hell! Good luck with the healing!

BW, I have the same ligament injury currently and am wondering some things—did you take a sustained 3 months of rest/buddy tape/etc? What helped heal it? I’m past the 3 month mark and still struggling but also have been climbing occasionally though I stopped 6 weeks ago.

Have you considered seeing a doctor?

Hi all with injuries. I ruptured my RH middle UCL on 4/20/19 and took a 3 wk complete rest- no weights, no climbing, no nothing. Helped being in Europe for the 1st two weeks.

I started bouldering easy stuff after that (v1s & 2s only, and gradually eased into harder stuff (4s and 5s) over the course of the next month and change. I'm back to my normal activities (v4.5/5.10+) though it hurts to completely straighten the finger (I can get about 85% straight without pain and requires).

Climbing/jamming your hand in your pocket/stuffing a shirt into a backpack should stop hurting so much after 6wks or so. I saw an orthopaedic surgeon who said b/c of the nature of the PIP joint, he refuses to do surgery except for extreme dislocations where both sides of the knuckle have torn ligaments (ie severe breaks usually where the bone has to be operated on as well).

Basically that joint has a natural splint via the volar plate, the non-injured ligament, the bone, and a sheath around all of it. He said it should naturally heal by itself to 100% in 9-12 months though it will prob always have a bump. He added that surgery would a) slow the healing progress and b) risk permanent loss of motion. He also said to continue climbing hard on it to break up any scar tissue buildup.

Elyse Vesser wrote:

BW, I have the same ligament injury currently and am wondering some things—did you take a sustained 3 months of rest/buddy tape/etc? What helped heal it? I’m past the 3 month mark and still struggling but also have been climbing occasionally though I stopped 6 weeks ago.

Elyse, I took almost 6 months off from anything very stressful for the finger. It was tough being right handed and being my index finger, as much of my work is computer based, so even mousing daily hurt. I tried buddy tape, but couldn't stick with it bc I also have a lot of hobbies that require gloves, e.g, gardening, woodworking, construction, etc. I started just hanging on the hang board maybe somewhere between 2 and 3 months, but pretty limited...just trying to gauge the pain and recovery. It is a waiting game more than anything, and just trying to protect it from the constant incidental strikes....that knuckle seems to be the leading edge that strikes every door handle or bedpost or whatever as I pass by. Anyway, I hope your ligament heals quickly...it is no fun being sidelined! Take care!