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Climbing shoe stiffness question

Original Post
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

I'm trying to decide between the Sportiva Otaki and Solutions. One of the biggest differences seems to be the stiffness of the shoe.  Whereas the Otaki is stiff throughout, the Solution is only stiff in the toe area and quite flexible in the midsole.  How does this affect their performance/usage?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Solutions will be much better for steep climbing and overhangs, as you can pull with your toes and keep your feet on easier.  They also have a softer, more sensitive rubber.  Otakis will be better at standing on small edges on vertical terrain.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Ted Pinson wrote: Solutions will be much better for steep climbing and overhangs, as you can pull with your toes and keep your feet on easier.  They also have a softer, more sensitive rubber.  Otakis will be better at standing on small edges on vertical terrain.

Depends on whether you get the mens or womens otaki. The womens have grip rubber, same as the solution.

In general a split sole can allow them to make a shoe that support just under the toes for edging, but since the area under your arch is so much more flexible you can easily get more rubber contact for smearing. Compared to a traditional flat and full shoe shoe for edging, those are hard to deform to slabs and don't smear as well. Take a radical downturn with that construction, you flat out won't be able to smear at all.

FWIW I used a pair of testarossas for a mid 11 granite slab in squish that was edging for the first half and smearing for the upper, both sections equally difficult. I was able to actually smear the upper section easier in those than my katana laces, despite the testarossas aggressive downturn 
Paul Bakker · · San Jose, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 30

Although I don't have experience with Solutions, I do alternate between the Otaki and Skwama (which is also soft).
Generally, both the Otaki and Skwama work well for every type of (sport) route, both indoors and outdoors. Although they feel very different, I still can't decide which one is "better", even after using both almost daily for ~2 years now. I've climbed equally hard (up to 5.12b) in both.

Skwama feels slightly better at smearing, Otaki slightly better at edging. The only place I don't like Skwamas is slabs, where standing on small edges becomes too painful. I like the Skwama a little better for bouldering though.

Back to your question: they will likely perform equally well, and (although they are very different shoes) it probably doesn't matter which one you choose.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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