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Nathan Sullivan
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Jul 15, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
Having been to Voo twice and done some of the easier, not-that-OW climbs, I'm thinking about trying an actual offwidth next time. What is a good intro to non-chimney wide crack climbing? I've lead Slit and Easy Jam so far, both of which seemed well protected and within my abilities.
I was thinking Mother 1, Handjacker or Lower/Upper Slot.
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Alex Leslie
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Jul 17, 2019
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Brisbane, Queensland, AU
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 2,510
Casual Corner was a good easy lead.
I also always have fun on the boulder problems even if I can't tick most of them.
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Nathan Sullivan
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Jul 17, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
Hmm, party dome (the crag with Casual Corner in it) looks like a good place for moderates in general.
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Johnson Rivers
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Jul 18, 2019
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UK
· Joined Jul 2019
· Points: 0
It is nice to see such useful tips. It is a good platform for the people to get their requirements
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Spider monkey
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Jul 19, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 21
Intimidation and jogging to vedauwoo would be great. Don’t let Nathan maxon fool you. Bg crack is not 5.10, not a good “ beginner” offwidth and not that easy to set up a tr on.
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Nathan Sullivan
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Jul 19, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
Yes, I'm well aware from a quick glance at the MP page for the route. Hope the weather holds up for this weekend, it's not looking good...
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Brice C
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Jul 19, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2014
· Points: 0
I thought lower/upper was a good intro. The crux for me was actually pulling on the deep fist early in the first pitch.
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Todd R
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Jul 19, 2019
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Vansion
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 56
Hammer out at Valley Massif.
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Nathan Sullivan
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Jul 28, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
Had a nice fight with Handjacker today. Led halfway up - to the overhang - realized it's not happening. Got on TR, and fought the thing until I made it. Had a nice TR fight with lower progressive too, which is clearly outside my skill range but - why not? After Handjacker, the top out on Progressive didn't seem too bad, awkward, but not bad.
Yeah, gonna need to work on OWs I think. But I had fun, and managed to keep all my blood this time thanks to adequate prep with TC Pros, pants, long sleeves and tape.
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Skyler Mavor
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Aug 6, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 113
From Steve Levin's description for the route Easy Jam: A nice progression on the Nautilus for learning wide cracks is: Easy Jam 5.4, Baldwin's Chimney 5.4, Right Parallel Space 5.5, Piton Perch 5.6, Slit 5.7, Hamburger Crack 5.7, Candlestick 5.7, Upper Slot 5.7+. Remember that, unfortunately, easier wide cracks tend to be squeezes, and are often poorly protected, so take this progression slowly.
Beyond that, try Sugar Crack, Mother, Strawberry Jam, Zipper, and Hammer. Finally and Fallout are perhaps comparable to Lower Progressive, with combination offwidth/layback/face climbing. A great way to learn technique is to try a few of the sustained harder offwidths (many can be toproped or find yourself a ropegun). I suggest Fantasia (toprope access via climbing Kim), and if that feels easy head to Mainstreet.
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rob.calm
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Aug 12, 2019
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Loveland, CO
· Joined May 2002
· Points: 630
Lots of good suggestions above along with a few silly ones, e.g., BG Jam, which is 11a.
For many years, I taught an offwidth climbing class at Vedauwoo for a local outing club. The prerequisite was being able to climb 5.6 outdoors and knowing how to rappel and belay (most of the earlier years took place before the advent of gym climbing). Beginning about the mid-90s, a lot of students were mostly climbing indoors and came to the class with good climbing skills but did less well than the students whose background was outdoors. I decided that this was because the earlier students had experience climbing chimneys so that in their transition to offwidths they had a background of putting their “whole body” into the climb. I changed the class from just one day of offwidth to two days. First day chimneys and the second day offwidths. Following a chimney day, the gym climbers did fine on the offwidths. These climbs are all in the Central Area and were chosen because of their easy access for a class. There are so many fine chimneys at Vedauwoo that a lot good climbing would be missed if they are not climbed.
The following chimney climbs were used not necessarily all of them for a given class. Hide-A-Way Chimney 5.5 Right Parallel Space 5.5 W.C. Fields 5.7 Candlestick 7 H&H Grunt 7 If the class went well, we’d sometimes end up climbing TM Chimney 7+ (more likely 5.8), a more demanding 2-pitch climb than any of the above. Hide-A-Way is a chimney that doesn’t really require chimney moves. It’s wide enough that face moves suffice, but it’s a good starting point to get climbers used to being “inside” the rock and using their whole body.
For the offwidth class, the climbs used were:
Easy Jam 4 Upper Slot 5.7+ Hand Jacker 5.7+ (For offwidth practice climb this right-side in. Somewhat easier near the top if you go left-side in). Knot Hole 5.8 Finally 5.9
If the class really went well, we’d return another day and climb Mainstreet 5.10a.
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Nathan Sullivan
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Aug 12, 2019
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Fort Collins, CO
· Joined Sep 2018
· Points: 0
Interesting! Slit is the only real chimney I've done, so that might be part of my problem - gotta build up that full body technique. I think I did Handjacker mostly right-in, then spun around near the top to grab a nice jug my partner pointed out.
I think I'll go for upper/lower slot, and maybe mother next time. I enjoy this style of climbing for some reason, I might turn into one of those weird offwidth people, heh.
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