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Steel Carabiners for Anchors

Original Post
Daniel Rickert · · Golden, CO · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,143

I want to give back to the areas I climb and thought that I could throw some steel carabiners in my pack to toss up on popular routes not already equipped with them. Any thoughts on why this would be a bad idea? Any brands people recommend? Thanks!

Thomas Gilmore · · Where the climate suits my… · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 1,060
http://www.climbtechgear.com/top-anchor-hook/

Attach 2 of these with fatty quick links
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I think it's a good idea, as long as they can't be easily stolen.

The Morse-Bradys · · Lander, WY · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 4,707

The offerings from team-tough.com are all 316 SS and very good quality.  

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

I like the climbtech mussy as well and just equipped a few routes with them. For moderate traffic on routes which currently only have chains you can also just use a steel gym biner with a metal captive rod (antitheft).

I do not recommend anything solid gate, the spring inside is likely to rust up and they will seize. Wire gates are much more forgiving.

Make sure that orienting the carabiner so the spine lays flat against the rock to reduce twist in the rope. 

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 9,136

The problem is SS is better but WE poor folks do the best we can.

Shelby Wall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2022 · Points: 0

You guys okay with these?...

https://usstainless.com/hardware/spring-hooks/stainless-steel-316-spring-hook-carabiner-3-8-10mm-marine-grade-safety-clip-forged/

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,175

Save yourself a couple bucks for an equivalent: usstainless.com/hardware/sp…

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10

i use these for my anchor draws

weight of aluminum, hardness of steel. best of both worlds.

Edelrid Bulletproof Screw Carabiner

https://www.rei.com/product/221394/edelrid-bulletproof-screw-carabiner?color=ICEMINT

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Chris Outings wrote:

i use these for my anchor draws

Edelrid Bulletproof Screw Carabiner

This thread is about "permanent" anchors - OP is willing to give back to community by installing permanent anchor carabiners and is asking for cost effective recommendations

Even though Bulletproofs are light and strong, they are quite a bit more expensive than other options listed above.

Chris Outings · · Los Angeles · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 10

right. my bad! clearly didnt read all words!

Dan The Man · · BC · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 664

You might want to contact your local access society first. They may be able to help you get the hardware and recommend which routes would benefit. 

Erroneous Publicus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 60

Anybody try the Trango plated steel carabiner with the removable captive pin: trango.com/products/steel-w…?  Retail is $8.95 and you don't have to use a quick link, so saves a few bucks over the US Stainless options. Guessing it clips easier too as it's designed for climbing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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