UFO Textile Cams

Has anybody heard of or used the obrworks UFO textile cams? I would really like to try them but can’t find a way to get them in the U.S. The website is obrworks.cz thanks!

They seem pretty sweet and I understand how they work, I am just trying to figure out how to get my hands on some. If somebody finds a way, let me know!

Years ago, Forrest Mountaineering made a thing called a "Roll your own", which consisted of a length of webbing and a metal buckle, you simply rolled the webbing around the buckle.
I also remember reading about how climbers in Germany used knotted rope as protection, again in sandstone, I believe Henry Barber also played with the idea.
Very cool looking and a refinement to the idea.

I would have to test-fall it with a metal cam/nut backup before I could climb above it and have peace of mind. I get how they works and this is pretty smart, I have no doubt it's a good product in the right circumstances.... but psychology.

Is there a vid of him cleaning it after a whip? Might need some elbow grease. 

ClimbingOn wrote:

I could probably get my friend to ship me two if you will reimburse me and split the international shipping. 

That would be great. I would gladly pay shipping. Let me know!

Former Climber wrote: The one in the middle is a Roll Your Own.  Top is a P Nut, bottom is a Titon.  A shame Supertopo nuked all the pics when they went offline; there was a treasure trove of cool old gear there that is now lost.

Almost. The bottom is A Triton... basically, a combination Titon and belay device.  (See: http://storrick.cnc.net/VerticalDevicesPage/Belay/SlotBlockPages/SlotBlockBelay0483.html  or https://verticalarchaeology.com/2014/10/28/forrest-mountaineering-triton/)

FWIW, I still carry a Titon or two now and then for OW pro. Yeah, not as groovy as a big cam, but plenty versatile if you’re a little clever n looking for placements ( verticalarchaeology.com/201…)

Ok. Here's the deal. You can order them to the US through HudySport.cz. They work well and clean well. They cost just as much as a cam, and weigh a fucking ton. It is a specialty piece for Elbe sandstone. I don't understand why anyone would bother with them if not climbing Czech or German sandstone. 

the schmuck wrote: Ok. Here's the deal. You can order them to the US through HudySport.cz. They work well and clean well. They cost just as much as a cam, and weigh a fucking ton. It is a specialty piece for Elbe sandstone. I don't understand why anyone would bother with them if not climbing Czech or German sandstone. 

Because they’re so crazy and unique and cool is why I want one. If they had true advantages over a cam they would be popular in more than just places that don’t allow metal gear

Anonymous wrote: Perhaps try Wayback Machine. 

Ahhh a connoisseur of podcasts

Once again, it must be emphasized that CMac and Spurrier handled the climbing content and demise of the forum like complete ass hats.

The webbing protection looks exciting! 

Just saw this IG post with some of these protection being used.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzvd1ddgWsq/?igshid=qs9v3wdzgj4k

Older model

OBRWORKS (Czech Republic) UFO Chocks  #1 #2 #3 (2012)

OBRWORKS (Czech Republic) UFO Chocks #0.25 (2015) #0.5 #0,75 (2013)

RESTDAY (Czech Republic) Uforing Ulite  #1 #10 (2012)

Paul L wrote: instagram.com/p/Bzvd1ddgWsq…

Those seem to be an improved design. The addition of sticky rubber on the outside must help greatly.

Looks like there may be some controversy with regard to use of rubber on pro under local ethics. The situation is a bit unclear to me - maybe some climbers from the region can clarify?

See the note below from uforing.eu/cs/uvod/

Note translated into English by Google:

Dear crawling friends,
I'd like to avoid some misinformation about the UFO ring. We have been working on their development and production for several years and the development of climbing rules and technology is still evolving.
Currently we are supplying UFO ring and Ulite model whose last layer (that touches the rock) is made of rubber or rubber. This solution has great advantages in respect of rock, product and also friction.
The development of rules on sand in Germany is such that UFO rings may be used that do not have the last layer of rubber but textiles. It is a backward view that we respect, but it is as if our "beautiful" roads should drive cars on spokes and not use tires. For those who doubt whether the rubber on the rock has better friction than the textile, I suggest you ask yourself the following question: Why is rubber used on climbing shoes?
If someone wants to have a UFO ring without the last rubber layer, (I am not), he has the option. For these cases we also offer UFO-type UFO rings, where the layer is touching the textile rock. Of course, this model complies with the CE standard.
Climbers both in Germany and in Bohemia buy both variants from us and time will show which variant will become the more popular
Unauthorized information that must not be used for glued UFO rings is misleading.
So, nothing happens, both variants are produced and it is up to everyone who has an interest in UFO ring, which option they choose.
Good luck !!!
"Tomas" Sedlacek
Restday

Original Czech:

Vážení lezoucí přátelé,
chtěl bych předejít určitým dezinformacím co se šíří o UFO ringu. Na jejich vývoji a výrobě pracujeme už několik let a vývoj v lezeckých pravidlech a technice se stále vyvíjí.
V současné době dodáváme na trh UFO ring a to model Ulite jehož poslední vrstva (ta, co se dotýká skály) je z pryže neboli gumy. Toto řešení má velké přednosti v šetrnosti ke skále, výrobku samému a také zvyšuje tření.
Vývoj pravidel na písku v Německu je takový, že se smí použít UFO ringy, které nemají poslední vrstvu gumu, ale textil. Je to zpátečnický názor, který respektujeme, nicméně je to jako kdyby po našich „krásných“ cestách měly jezdit auta na loukotích a nesměly se používat pneumatiky. Pro ty kdo pochybují, zda-li má guma na skále lepší tření než textil, doporučuji položit si následující otázku: Proč se na lezečkách používá guma?
Jestliže někdo chce mít UFO ring bez poslední gumové vrstvy, ( já to tedy nejsem), má tu možnost. Pro tyto případy máme v nabídce také UFO ringy typu Ulite – Tex, kde je vrstva dotýkající se skály textilní. Tento model samozřejmě splňuje normu CE.
Lezci jak v Německu, tak v Čechách si od nás kupují obě varianty a čas ukáže, která varianta se stane tou oblíbenější
Neprověřené informace, že se nesmí použít lepené UFO ringy je zavádějící.
Tedy, nic se neděje, vyrábí se obě varianty a je na každém kdo má o UFO ring zájem, kterou variantu si vybere.
Hodně zdaru !!!
„Tomas“ Sedláček
Restday

Frank Stein wrote: Ok. Here's the deal. You can order them to the US through HudySport.cz. They work well and clean well. They cost just as much as a cam, and weigh a fucking ton. It is a specialty piece for Elbe sandstone. I don't understand why anyone would bother with them if not climbing Czech or German sandstone. 

... or Polish one ... Hejszowina

Some of the locals were saying the UFO is not allowed but others said it was fine, it was confusing knowing what exactly was allowed in the ethics. This was in Adrspach. Obviously nothing metal and no chalk, but textiles seemed controversial. I whipped on one while i was there.. It was in a flaring placement and more of a mental piece I was pretty surprised it held. Then I whipped on it again, bomber. I'm a gear connoisseur and love the odd.. Find myself soloing and climbing R/X routes but climbing on czech sandstone was F*cking terrifying, yet cant wait to go back.

Adrspach is a National park, and the rules are set by the Czech mountaineering club/association. Technically, you are not allowed to climb there if not accompanied by a member. Czech sandstone ethics have been undergoing liberalization in the last decade or so, and this has seen some pushback. It is entirely likely that UFOs are permitted (I don’t see why not), but also that some Czech version of trad dads refuse to acknowledge this. 

Czech climbing "ethics" are so silly.  They don't want metal gear, but are okay with the large amount of rotting textile trash left from stuck knot pro.  Someone should tell them about metolius fat cams. 

Dan Smee wrote:

Czech climbing "ethics" are so silly.  They don't want metal gear, but are okay with the large amount of rotting textile trash left from stuck knot pro.  Someone should tell them about metolius fat cams. 

The rock is really soft (only a little harder than Garden of the Gods, maybe) and it constricts all over the place. I’ve never seen an area make so many excellent “nut” placements. Seems like the style is a good tactic for making it last a few hundred years instead of 60 years. Just my opinion—only climbed there one day, for what that’s worth.

Oh, and UFOs were absolutely bomber.

Here's a cool video where they break test knot pro with an experienced Czech climber.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qkbz0aP4pN4