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Question about Simul Climbing (Alone on the Wall)

Original Post
Adam Eisenbarth · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 40

I just finished up Alone on the Wall and Alex Honnold (when he simul climbs Freerider with Tommy Caldwell) says that he is taking more risk when leading the simul.. I have learned the follower takes more of a risk. Why does he say that?

TaylorP · · Pump Haus, Sonora · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Because he has huge run outs or sometimes no protection at all. The follower usually has a few pieces or is fixed on the anchor

Dave Baker · · Wiltshire, UK · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 303

If the follower falls, the leader can get pulled off the wall when the rope comes tight.

Crag Cat · · wow Boulder, big surprise · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 51

That is correct, if the follower falls while simul climbing they will take a huuge whip but might be ok. If the follower falls they rip the leader off the wall, kinda like doubling the force of the whip. Much much more dangerous for the leader.

Matt Wetmore · · NYC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 520

They also use microtraxions clipped to a piece to act as top belays for the follower.

Brent D · · New England · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 279
Matt Wetmore wrote: They also use microtraxions clipped to a piece to act as top belays for the follower.

True, and if you develop enough slack between that microtrax and the follower, you start getting into shredded rope territory.

I've always thought of it as the leader takes more of the risk, the follower takes more of the responsibility.  Stronger climber should ideally be following, so there's less of a chance of them falling and pulling the leader off the wall.  

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
Brent D wrote:

I've always thought of it as the leader takes more of the risk, the follower takes more of the responsibility. 

Absolutely.

clodes mlakos · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

im sure that u are right

Russ B · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 42

Imagine you're 20 feet above your gear, and suddenly your belayer unclips from the anchor and jumps off the wall, pulling you down and into the last piece of protection and the wall. It can get really ugly, even on low angle terrain if the follower falls while simuling. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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