Climbing in Parc national des Grands-Jardins

Anyone climbed in Parc national des Grands-Jardins in Quebec? The information here is not too detailed and found some more at:
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/canada/quebec/quebec-city/area/953507295

Seems the only guidebook has been out of print for some time :(  Was looking at some of the easier routes like La Granuleuse. That route has some info, but other easy routes just a name.

I guess my primary question is how it is compared to Whitehorse.

I climbed there briefly quite a few years ago, so am a bit fuzzy on the details. This was in the pre-internet days and the guidebook that we had was minimalist to say the least. We climbed on the slabby crag on the right (east) side of the road heading north through the park (forget it's name but likely the one you are thinking of). Given our lack of knowledge (and generally cautious attitudes) we were very 'conservative' in what we attempted. I recall 2 (or possibly 3) pitch pleasant slab climbs. As I remember the rock was significantly less polished than that on Whitehorse, with certain sections featuring small shallow finger pockets. It was slab climbing, so runouts were were definitely a feature on the climbs that we did, though I don't recall them to have been 'death defying'.

The crags across the road appeared to be steeper and altogether more formidable, as well as seeming to host a significant amount of greenery, but we never went over to look more closely (we only had a couple of days there). I remember staying in a pleasant hut close to both the road and the climbing. There is other climbing nearby-- bigger crags but more in the wilderness at Malbaie and, easier to access, a bit further east at Les Palissades at St. Simeon (I remember massive amounts of poison ivy there however). Directly across the St. Lawrence (there an estuary about 5 miles wide) from Grands-Jardins is the very enjoyable sport climbing area of Kamouraska--a very interesting contrast in both environment and climbing style to the 'wilder' crags of the Laurentians.

Found some good info. Thought I looked at that site before, but must have missed it. It's in French. The topo is really nice!

https://www.escaladequebec.com/pour-une-premiere-visite-dans-les-grands-jardins/
https://www.escaladequebec.com/topos/Topo_grands_jardins.pdf

 I haven't personally climbed there myself but I've talked to a lot of quebecois people who climb there and they say it's really worthwhile. On the adventurous  side. Not sure I would go up till aug, the  bugs can be fierce in quebec  from my experience. 

Ron Birk wrote: Found some good info. Thought I looked at that site before, but must have missed it. It's in French. The topo is really nice!

https://www.escaladequebec.com/pour-une-premiere-visite-dans-les-grands-jardins/
https://www.escaladequebec.com/topos/Topo_grands_jardins.pdf

This is the most up-to-date topo (the previous ~18 y.o. guidebook was pretty minimalist). The Direct route on Mont de l'Ours (on the right side of the road) is a great classic, with multiple variations; 5.6-5.9. Other routes on that cliff are pretty obscure.

The central part of the Dome (the cliff right in front (north) of you when you get in the valley) has multiple classic, mostly slabby routes. 5.6-5.10. Granuleuse, Voie d'evitement, and Tache blanche are the most well traveled, but several lesser-known routes are as good. There is also a great 6 pitch 5.4 route on the west side of the mountain - L'Initiation.

Le Gros-Bras (left side of the road) is pretty intimidating; often wet and dirty, with loose rock probable. More of an alpine adventure. Not recommended for the beginning trad leader; it is adventure climbing.

Routes in the park are almost all trad, with the odd bolt. Belays are bolted on the most popular routes, but on gear elsewhere. 60m rope is essential on some of the Dome routes. 2 ropes (not necessarily 60m) needed to rap down, except where there is a walk off (essentially on the Gros-Bras, and the Initiation on the Dome).

I could go into more details if needed - just email me.

This is a blatant thread hijack, but since a Quebec local is responding to this thread, I have a couple of questions that have been lingering for a while, that I'm hoping Marc-Andre can help me with.

1. Is there any climbing on the Gaspe (beyond Kamouraska)? I traveled there 2 summers ago but could find no information on any climbing. There is a load of rock but most that I checked out (along the coast) seemed to be total choss (though if it were in the UK there would likely be several guidebooks full of routes).

2. Almost every hillside in the Kamouraska seems to have an attractive-appearing crag, yet only one (plus a limited 2nd one) seems to have any climbing, why is that so? Is it due to private land issues, poor rock quality, conservation restrictions, something else? The main crag is delightful but somewhat limited in extent, so I am very curious as to why none of the other options have been developed--there is one extensive crag a bit west that looks particularly enticing.

                                     Thanks for any responses and apologies to Ron for the hijack.

Hi guys, Quebec admin here.
I climb at Grands Jardins every year, amazing playground, the pdf topo on escalade Quebec is updated yearly but please enter the routes in MP if you climb them.
I know a few locals if you need more information for the area.

For Kamou, you can only climb on the official cliff, a local loaded and updated the info on MP.

East of there (Bas Saint-Laurent and Gaspésie) does have a few areas but it's hard to find information.

I'm still trying to get more involvement from Quebecers on MP, it's happening in some areas but still needs work in others.
I'm happy to see areas never documented show up on MP, there's a lot more climbing here than people think.

Alan Rubin wrote: This is a blatant thread hijack, but since a Quebec local is responding to this thread, I have a couple of questions that have been lingering for a while, that I'm hoping Marc-Andre can help me with.

Disclaimer: I used to be a Quebec City local, but now I'm more of a Farley (yup!) semi-regular (if you can call it that when you climb outside only a handful of times a year).

1. Is there any climbing on the Gaspe (beyond Kamouraska)? I traveled there 2 summers ago but could find no information on any climbing. There is a load of rock but most that I checked out (along the coast) seemed to be total choss (though if it were in the UK there would likely be several guidebooks full of routes).

All the big stuff is choss. All the climbing that I am aware of happens during winter. Ice climbing, and some serious alpine mixed stuff.

2. Almost every hillside in the Kamouraska seems to have an attractive-appearing crag, yet only one (plus a limited 2nd one) seems to have any climbing, why is that so? Is it due to private land issues, poor rock quality, conservation restrictions, something else? The main crag is delightful but somewhat limited in extent, so I am very curious as to why none of the other options have been developed--there is one extensive crag a bit west that looks particularly enticing.

I think it is all on private land, and the law in Quebec says that if you get hurt on someone's property you can sue the owner. Although I don't recall anyone ever getting sued that way, lots of land owners are understandably reticent to allow climbing. The Quebec climbing federation and various local climbing groups are trying to make deals so climbing is allowed in exchange of insurance coverage for the owner. But you know how that goes - it's not easy to do.

Rumor has it there are other Kamouraska-area crags accessible if you know the owner, etc. but I know nothing more than that.

One somewhat local climbing group is Les Grimpeurs de l'est (it's actually in Rimouski, farther north along the St-Lawrence. You can find a few topos here but nothing seems worth the long drive: lesgrimpeursdelest.wordpres… )

                                     

Thank you, Luc and Marc-Andre--pretty much what I guessed. Now back to the original thread!!!

Marc-Andre, introduce yourself if you see me (most regulars there know who I am) at Farley.  Alan

Hi Ron.

I spent a few days climbing in the parc several years ago. Route details escape me, suffice it to say it was a wonderful trip. We were there in July. Campground was buggy, but a steady breeze made the climbing enjoyable. We climbed on both sides of the road, and stayed at the campground just before the visitor center. I remember solid granite, good anchors, and no other climbers. More textured than Conway, with generally good protection. That said, slab pitches were typically runout. I’d be happy to discuss more via PM if you’re interested. 

Just came back and had the best time up there!! Climbed L'Initiation on The Dome to the top in ten pitches. One of the best adventures I had with clean rock the whole way. Will write it up with some photos. Too bad I didn't take notes. The day before (Jul 4) Whitehorse didn't have a single bug left but Grands-Jardins still had plenty!! But they were no match for the fun we had!

Wrote up the route we did: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/117327523/linitiation