Gortex pants for 6000m?

Does anyone still use or bring gortex full zip pants on glaciated 6000m climbs? I always bring mine but have yet to wear them, just sticking to softshells instead. I want to ditch these things but can't bring myself to leave them behind on a big summit. Have you ever been mid climb and wished you had them or pulled them out? I hate gortex.

The alternative is a lighter pair of Non full zip commit to them instead of a softshell pant. 

There's no liquid precipitation at 6000M, why would you wear goretex? 

mpech wrote: There's no liquid precipitation at 6000M, why would you wear goretex? 

Right. I'm thinking mainly for heanious wind, which can be hard to predict at 2am on summit day (ie. Before you leave the tent).  

A few things to consider in favor of hardshells:

• No liquid precipitation that high, but depending on the region, you can get "sticky snowfall".  This type of snow can easily stick to soft shells and then melt from body heat.  
• Some models of hardshells can be more wind resistant than softshells (some aren't)
• Hardshells often can unzip for venting, while softshells rarely have this

• Insulated softshells
• Insulated baselayer
• Lightweight hardshells (Mountain Hardwear Ozonic, poor wind resistance but very light)
• Heavyweight hardshells (Arcteryx Beta AR)

• Insulated softshells, if weather looks good
• Insulated softshells + lightweight hardshells in pack, if weather looks good but with potential "sticky snow"
• Insulated baselayer + heavyweight hardshells, if weather looks questionable or bad

yes, but mainly for wind...

I'm mulling over this very decision in anticipation of an upcoming trip to the Cordillera Blanca. I still haven't arrived at a good answer. Will likely bring both and make a game time decision before leaving base camp.

As I usually wear softshells 90% of the time in winter, but I feel Gore-tex pants may be warranted for high winds that usually cut through most softshell weaves.  As long as the hardshell pants have decent side-zip venting, I've never gotten too hot while moving upward.  Nothing beats the comfort and stretch of softshell pant, though.

In the Cordillera Blanca I always just wore insulated softshells without a base layer. I didn't have hard shell pants but on one climb it was pretty poor weather, windy and super cold. I would have been quite happy to have some then, especially if we didn't bail! 

Wow, I'm surprised people are lugging around the Beta AR. It's the exact pant I have and am trying to ditch as they are bulky and heavy.

I think for the Cordillera I may just stick to my softshells and heavy base layer, it worked for me on Denali although it was barely enough. My other ideas are put a houndini pant on under the softshell, or skip the softshell and commit to a Zeta SL pant for the summit. Both require a decision on the tent and not mid climb. Of only there was a trim fitting double zip gortex pants that is light, it doesn't seem to exist and I hate baggy pants with crampons!

I used to have the OR Foray pants. They're lighter weight than the Beta AR, not as bombproof but perfectly adequate as it's something that you're not going to use most of the time anyway. They don't have a full length zip but it's still long enough that you can put them on with crampons on. 

MyFeetHurt wrote: Wow, I'm surprised people are lugging around the Beta AR. It's the exact pant I have and am trying to ditch as they are bulky and heavy.

I think for the Cordillera I may just stick to my softshells and heavy base layer, it worked for me on Denali although it was barely enough. My other ideas are put a houndini pant on under the softshell, or skip the softshell and commit to a Zeta SL pant for the summit. Both require a decision on the tent and not mid climb. Of only there was a trim fitting double zip gortex pants that is light, it doesn't seem to exist and I hate baggy pants with crampons!

Mammut Nordand Light Gore-Tex Active, C-Knit hardshell pants.  Claimed weight of 260 grams and they appear to be slim fitting in the lower legs.

I found the MHW exposure/2 paclite to be a fairly decent comprise. They have full side zips, and the leg opening is 19.25 on a L vs the Beta AR which is 20.4. It has two snaps at the leg that can reduce size as well. It's not perfect but better than the AR. I wish Arc’teryx would make a pant like you describe light, slim fitting with full side zips, I can't stand the huge feeling and bagginess of the AR's.  

MyFeetHurt wrote: Wow, I'm surprised people are lugging around the Beta AR. It's the exact pant I have and am trying to ditch as they are bulky and heavy.

I think for the Cordillera I may just stick to my softshells and heavy base layer, it worked for me on Denali although it was barely enough. My other ideas are put a houndini pant on under the softshell, or skip the softshell and commit to a Zeta SL pant for the summit. Both require a decision on the tent and not mid climb. Of only there was a trim fitting double zip gortex pants that is light, it doesn't seem to exist and I hate baggy pants with crampons!

For the Cordillera, i think you've already answered your question. A mid/heavy base with a insulated softshell should be enough in good weather.

The Cord is much more tame than than anything close to the artic circle. 

^^^ this
Was recently there. Mid-weight 250 merino bottoms under OR Cirque or Icepants (zip open thighs) was plenty enough. I had an ultralight rain shell rig (primarily for wind) bet it never came out of the bag.  YMMV, but managing the heat and water was more of challenge than any cold.

I've got both the OR Foray pants and the ArcTeryx Alpha SL pants, and I much prefer the Alphas for anything in the mountains. They are paclite, full side zips, and burlier than the Foray by some margin. They are 13 oz, so just a tad heavier than the Foray if I remember correctly.

ArcT doesn't seem to have them on their site anymore, but they are still available at some retailers.

For equatorial 6000M peaks, I'd opt for the lightest, least burly, hardshell for wind. Something like this? https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/mens/mens-pants/mens-apollo-pant/p/2691700001008.