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Old Man's Head on Bigelow mountain

Original Post
Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

Does anyone have any info on the formation called Old Man's Head, on Bigelow? I've been developing routes on Little Bigelow, and now that I'm familiar with the geology of the range, I can't imagine there hasn't been some development of that crag. Or at least some exploration of it, with climbing in mind. This is taken from the summit of Little Bigelow. The shaded areas to the right of the crags are always shaded throughout the day. Giant overhangs?

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

I’ve ogled at this many times before while on trail runs in the region...established routes?—quite possibly!! 

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Do you mean the same Mt. Bigelow the AT runs right over?? https://goo.gl/maps/QZSY3Pp3bYbmZBqN7 

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

That's the one, Shaniac.

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Looking at the topography in Google (3D mode) (strictly armchair research) it looks like the slabs are fairly low angle. Said another way, one can see why Little B is developed but why Big B may not be as much? https://goo.gl/maps/tAtvgA94FDx18vcU6 That said I would be 110% on board to do a recon weekend up there and see what could be found. (looking for old pitons, obvious lines, etc) This view is the best photo I could find. Plenty of potential for sure. upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe… Considering it is a 4K MT. someone at some point in time must have combed it looking for possibilities. 

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

That’s a great pic, Shaniac.  I’d wager there are some steeper lines up some the sharp aretes abutting the visible gullies.  

Shaniac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 24

Sweet! Let's set up a recon in July?  Who is in?
Worst case, the slabs are low angle and we run out the pro on easy-er terrain. Worst case they are 10.x steep and we need to find some way to recon from above??? Or bring a bolt kit?   Either way exploring a new area is always fun! Thanks all.

Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, ME · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

So cool this area is getting some attention. I poked around in there years ago but didn't do any development, only dreamed of it.
I know there has been some climbing done on the south face of little bigelow, probably 80's. There is a fly fishing guide in Kingfield, I believe, who had done some exploratory climbs.
Not sure about the old man on bigelow though. Looks promising.

Also, the eco-challenge used the south face of little bigelow as part of the course. I think they descended it.
I rapped it in the mid 90's after that. Looked like they bolted the shit out of it for rigging and such.

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

If you guys want to mount a recon, I'm in. I've a camp a few minutes from the parking at the foot of the mountain and would be happy to host a base camp. I've also been (slowly, because of horrendous mosquitoes this year) starting to develop routes on Little Bigelow, and could use some second ascent opinions on the grades I've given the two I've got up, so far.

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

Quickest way to get to the old man's head, as far as I know, would be up the Safford Brook trail from East Flagstaff rd, on the north side.

Chris Trautz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 90

Also Shaniac, that excellent pic is taken looking east at Avery. The old man's head would be on the far side and not visible. Great view of Little Bigelow south face beyond, as well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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