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Help with RRG trip!

Original Post
Matt Lienemann · · Glenshaw, PA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Planning to make my first trip down to Red River Gorge October 9-13. My group climbs 5.10 and under for sport so I was wondering what areas you would recommend for a good grouping of routes and where to camp close to them! Thanks in advance any other tips are welcome!

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 263

Muir Valley seems like the place for you. Any of the campgrounds will work. Miguel’s is the place if you want the real RRG experience.

BWulf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 1

Another vote for Muir Valley. Well maintained & easy to navigate thanks to copious signage & small labels at the start of most routes. Note that it’s $10/car to park, and there are no dogs allowed. Land of the Arches campground is ~10 minutes down the road from Muir, and will probably be quieter than Miguel’s. October is prime time in the Red, so expect crowds and lines for popular routes. 

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

I am not quite sure what the date for RoctoberFest is this year, but your visit might be around that time - be prepared for extra fun, and crowds.

Adam Ronchetti · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 25

I'll third for Muir Valley. Maybe PMRP if you have the right vehicle. I wouldn't bother with MFRP. 

Paul Coakley · · KY · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 25

Muir Valley Bruise Bros wall is your spot.
Agree that Oct. is peak season in the Gorge.
Fincastle campground is small and primitive but on the road into Muir Valley.  Walking distance.
Have fun!

D S · · Bishkek, KG · Joined May 2014 · Points: 0

Just to add some variety because there are a couple climbs outside of muir valley

Phantasia wall is pretty cool and has a few good climbs in that range such as Creature Feature 5.9, Pogue Ethics 5.9, Lord of the Flies 5.8, and Overlord 5.10. Pretty sure Perverse Intentions 5.10 also has new bolts on it as of a couple years ago so that would be a nice one too.

Could also combine some close things in the PMRP to get a pretty full day. The Gallery crag in PMRP has: 27 years of climbing 5.8, Brief History of Climb 5.10. Then it's just a short walk (<5min) around the cave to Volunteer wall which has Darwin Loves You 5.9, Swap Meet 5.6, and a couple very worth while 5.10s.

pat a · · ann arbor, mi · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Roadside is another nice option, and it has a nice combo of pumpy overhung 5.10s and slabby climbing that less experienced/fit folks can climb without pumping out half way.  If anyone leads trad, there are also some fantastic <5.8 lines there.  

Bonus: the permit requirement ( grainingfork.org/newpermit/) keeps attendance down a bit on really busy weekends.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Dillon Schwertz wrote: 
Could also combine some close things in the PMRP to get a pretty full day. The Gallery crag in PMRP has: 27 years of climbing 5.8, Brief History of Climb 5.10. Then it's just a short walk (<5min) around the cave to Volunteer wall which has Darwin Loves You 5.9, Swap Meet 5.6, and a couple very worth while 5.10s.

Keep in mind - the Motherlode hill maybe tricky for some vehicles, but there is no need to drive down. You can park at the top of the hill - there is a small parking lot. The hike down will only add 5-10min as compared to parking at the bottom. Everything within that part of PMRP can be easily accessed on foot. 

Derek Ehrnschwender · · Cambridge, MA · Joined May 2015 · Points: 45

If you find you're tired of the crowds and want to get some views, venture into the north gorge. Pistol Ridge has a few short but spicy 5.8s and It's a Wonderful Life, a super tall 9+ that alone makes the hike worth it. Really beautiful spot up there, and definitely off the beaten path. The north gorge is way prettier than the south gorge IMO, and far fewer brotographers

Carl Engelke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Some great suggestions here. Would agree that Muir Valley is probably your best bet. High concentration of crags - if one is too busy you can just walk to another! Good signage, lots of moderates, and all the routes are labeled with a medallion at their base.

There are also a few other spots with multiple walkable crags (see below) which would be good places to check out, though the roads are more treacherous so check that situation out in advance.

Agreed about Phantasia and Roadside (aka GFNP), but stay away from Perverse Intentions if you go to Phantasia; from the guidebook: "Just what were them perverts doing in those woods with that there drill? Not putting up a classic, that's for sure." (paraphrasing from memory)

Muir Valley sport climbs up to 5.10 with >2 user stars

PMRP and BRRP Bald Rock area sport climbs up to 5.10 with >2 user stars

PMRP Coal Bank area sport climbs up to 5.10 with >2 user stars

MFRP sport climbs up to 5.10 with >2 user stars

Hope this helps!

Troy F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 11

Just go and make your own mistakes. Miguel's has great pizza for any kinds of diet. Cheap showers at Daniel Boone. If you camp at Miguel's you have chance to wake up in a puddle if you choose the wrong place to put your tent, but its great for Car/Van camping. Thankfully this wasn't me, but the fella that had it happened to woke most of people staying there.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Miller Fork - The Nursery
Miller Fork - Camelot
PMRP - The Gallery
PMRP - Velo
PMRP - Drive By
Muir Valley - Johnny's Wall
Muir Valley - The Hideout
Muir Valley - Bruise Brothers 
Muir Valley - Land Before Time
Muir Valley - The Great Wall
Muir Valley - Practice Wall
Muir Valley - Guide Wall
Roadside

There's more stuff out there, but this is a solid list. Muir Valley has some softer grades, so dont be scared to try some routes out of your perceived range.

Don't climb in groups bigger than 4, or people will hate you. Split up, even if at the same wall, and when people ask "how many more do you have?", it should just be between the 4 that you're climbing with, not the other broken up groups trying to jump in after you. This will speed up your day and everyone else's at the crag.

Andrew Krajnik · · Plainfield, IL · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 1,739

That's Columbus Day weekend, so it'll coincide with Rocktoberfest. Be prepared for crowds, but that being said, we've been down there for Rocktoberfest for the last 3 years, and we've always been able to get plenty of quality climbing in. Enjoy!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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