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Climbing info on Little Yosemite Valley?

Original Post
Welcome To The Zoo · · UMass · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1,805

I was just up there backpacking and the upper Merced river canyon is WILD. I'm surprised I can't find much info on routes in this area. I know of two routes (Golden Bear 5.10b 15 pitches, and Bunnell Point - NW Face 5.9 14p) on Bunnell Point. Both put up in the late 50s.

But it looks like there is a shit ton of steep rock out there. Anyone have info on other routes in this area? Topos, descriptions, photos, etc?
Specifically I'm talking about climbs east of HD, Broderick, and Liberty Cap as those areas are pretty well documented




Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

Peter,
My notes show these routes:

Moraine Dome (8005')
2485. Minerals' Manufacturing Plant A3?, 2p
2486. Assembly Line A3?, 1p

Sugarloaf Dome (7683')
2487. Sugarloaf Dome - SW Face 5.6 A2, Ro, Secor, aid diag left from bushy ledge
2488. Sugarloaf Dome - South Face 5.9, Ro, Secor, free traverse R from bushy ledge

Bunnell Point (8193')
2489. The Golden Bear 5.10b, 18p, left dike, topo, bad and missing bolts 2015
2490. Bunnell Point - NW Face 5.9 *, 14p, right dike, 15x, Secor
2491. When I'm 64 5.10d, 8x, new route, mentioned by Bruce Morris 2015

Greg has done The Golden Bear and mentioned the broken bolts.
A topo exists for it.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2632893/Little-Yosemite-Valley-Climbing​​​

Your lowest photo is the East Face of Sugarloaf Dome.
It's true there is lots of rock there and good potential, but the long approach hike will deter many.

Welcome To The Zoo · · UMass · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1,805

Cool, thanks Clint. Does the old Roper book have topos for some of these routes, or just descriptions?

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,738

The 1971 Roper guide just has descriptions for these routes.
For a few routes it has a line on a photo, but not for these.

Here's what these books have:

Roper (1971) p.187-188:
Sugarloaf Dome - South Face
III, 5.9   Sugarloaf Dome is a little-known formation situated at the east end of Little Yosemite Valley,
some five miles upstream from Nevada Fall.
The clean, white south face was first climbed in November 1951 by John Salathe' and Cliff Hopson.
Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost climbed this face free in 1960.
Each party who has climbed this face seems to have taken a different route.
From a brushy ledge halfway up the face, Salathe' and Hopson went diagonally left across the south and southwest faces - this involved much direct aid.
A better route is to climb more or less straight up above the brushy ledge.
The 5.9 is found on a friction face several pitches above the ledge.
Descend via brush-filled slopes to the west.

Secor (1992) p.314:
Bunnell Point
Northwest Face IV, 5.9.
First ascent June 1983 by Alan Bartlett and Robb Dellinger.
There are two dikes just to the right of center on the northwest face.
These dikes slant up and left  and meet about halfway up the face.
This route follows the right dike, and slants up and left for fourteen pitches.
There are fifteen bolts on this climb, but beware of some off-route bolts that lead to the right at about mid-height.
The Golden Bear V, 5.10b.
First ascent July 1989 by Bart O'Brien and Mike Jauregui.
This route follows the left-hand dike ...
[see Brad Young's topo]

I added the area and The Golden Bear topo:
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/117131021/little-yosemite-valley

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Between yesterday and today. · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 148

If you are willing to walk that far you will never run out of projects. Ever.

Welcome To The Zoo · · UMass · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1,805

Thanks a ton Clint! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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