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Rappelling on a MegaJul

Original Post
Charlie Martz · · Fort Collins · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

So I have a MegaJul and a GriGri.
I always lead belay and top down belay with the GriGri, because I prefer it to other belay devices.
I had an atc for rappelling, however the rubber sheath around the cable has recently worn through and now there are pointy cable bits everywhere.
So I've starting bringing the MegaJul up on clmbs and using it for rappels.
My question is... Do you think its a bad idea to use the MegaJul for rappelling, or is it fine?

Ryan Dresser · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 81

Its fine. Go for it. 

mollycoddled anteater · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 17
Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60
Charlie Martz · · Fort Collins · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

Lol thanks guys, I think I mean more in terms of weather or not the SS will hold up super well if I go and use it a bunch for rappelling, or if its gonna add extra wear to the rope. I've used it for rappels roughly a dozen of times so far, so I'm not really as concerned about immediate safety, as i am about longevity of gear.

EDIT* Grammar

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
mollycoddled anteater wrote:

https://media.edelrid.de/images/attribut/54544017_GAL_MegaJul_MicroJul_MegaJulSport_SS_161205.pdf

Don't. If you miss the next rappel station you will be f№*ked up.

Bring a random tuber and rappel safely.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Charlie Martz wrote:Do you think its a bad idea to use the MegaJul for rappelling, or is it fine?

It is not a bad idea although it is far from fine. A good old tuber is a way to go.

Charlie Martz · · Fort Collins · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45
Pavel Burov wrote:

Don't. If you miss the next rappel station you will be f№*ked up.

Bring a random tuber and rappel safely.

Good call, I never really thought about what would happen if I needed to go back up.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Charlie Martz wrote: So I have a MegaJul and a GriGri.
I always lead belay and top down belay with the GriGri, because I prefer it to other belay devices.
I had an atc for rappelling, however the rubber sheath around the cable has recently worn through and now there are pointy cable bits everywhere.
So I've starting bringing the MegaJul up on clmbs and using it for rappels.
My question is... Do you think its a bad idea to use the MegaJul for rappelling, or is it fine?

Rapped a bunch with the Jul. So much so that I broke the wire of the "brake". Was kinda stuck! Eldriud sent me a new one though and I think they updated the new model.

It can be jerky, you need a strong hand and good technique to do it well.

Ultimately, I switched back to my Smart Alpine which I think is a little better but the Jul was great for a long time and I went hands free on rap many times to clear a rope snag, etc. Test it on you ropes before doing that though.

Also, you can "batman" with the device easily if you need to move up.

Ditch the Gri.

Edit: Used it for years, it never wore out, just that problem with the wire, didn't affect the ropes either.
E MuuD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 160
Charlie Martz wrote:

Good call, I never really thought about what would happen if I needed to go back up.

Um... why would that be a problem with the MegaJul?

chris b · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 11
E MuuD wrote:

Um... why would that be a problem with the MegaJul?

It locks up pulling the rope through that way.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
E MuuD wrote:

Um... why would that be a problem with the MegaJul?

Just try it. In a safe environment. It is way more solid method of obtaining answers versus chatting over Internet.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Chris Blatchley wrote:

It locks up pulling the rope through that way.

Don't rap with the jul backwards, just rap with it the same orientation you belay with, thumb loop out. If you miss the rap, you can batman up.

chris b · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 11
Tradiban wrote:

Don't rap with the jul backwards, just rap with it the same orientation you belay with, thumb loop out. If you miss the rap, you can batman up.

I have three giga jul now which doesn't have this problem anymore

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Tradiban wrote:

Don't rap with the jul backwards, just rap with it the same orientation you belay with, thumb loop out. If you miss the rap, you can batman up.

Just rip your thumb off. I tried the rap with the jul a few times. Jerkiest annoying rappel ever.


LONG LIVE THE GRIGRI. 
Doug Hutchinson · · Seattle and Eastrevy · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 346

Now that the Giga Jul is out carrying a Grigri on multi pitch climbs seems dated to me. I would ditch both the Mega and the Grigri and just use a Giga Jul. Grigri is now a single pitch device for me.

Mitchell Dalton · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 26

I love the MegaJul for belaying above and below. It's a great device except......... on rappel. Absolutely atrocious. It's bouncy and jerky and locks up. I've tried rapping with it in every orientation possible. The only one that feels okay is upside down in a non-locking orientation and it probably isn't super safe. I've lately ditched it completely for an ATC guide simply because it rappels better. Now the GigalJul looks stellar. I haven't bought one yet but I absolutely plan to! It's basically a tuber with a switch for belaying! Half the weight and price of the out-dated grigri! Can't wait to get my hands on one and sell every other belay device I have. 

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 350

Completely sucks to rappel on. Every person will stare at you like you’re the jerry of the wall. This may or may not have anything to do with the megajul

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

If you antagonist muscles are too weak to rap with the Jul, try out the Smart Alpine and ditch the Gri entirely.

Charlie Martz · · Fort Collins · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45

Good call Tradiban, I've ditched the Gri, what do I do with the other half? ;)

Thanks for the feedback guys, I really do like climbing with a grigri though, and don't mind the extra weight, probably gonna get another ceapo belay device to rap with until the sheath on the wire wears though again. Seems like no one's concerned about the megajul wearing anything out too early so that's good news. Cheers. 

Kalli Schumacher · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 1

Isn’t it steel? vs aluminum for other guide capable tube devices? Wouldn’t that make it better for wear? Or do you just mean because it’s so thin to begin with. My atc-guides/now one reverso have worn really fast rapping on skinny ropes (lots of half rope use).

It sucks rapping in standard orientation. I could barely get down. Would not recommend.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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