Warming up WITH a hangboard (not for a hangboard)

We've seen the pictures and videos of people warming up with their Tension, Franklin, SicGrips, Awesome Woodys, etc. hangboards at the crag.  Did some Google searching and came up surprisingly empty.

So, if you use a hangboard to warmup at the crag, what's your routine?  If you use it to stay warm during long breaks between burns, what do you do?

the whole vid is good but he talks about warming up starting at 5 min

My coach/friend just got me stated on a new hangboard protocol which includes a new warm up that I think would be very applicable at the crag. Start with rolling out the body, some locross ball work on the teries major and pec minor. Then make a fist as fast as you can 50 times or so. This should get a nice pump going with lots of blood flow to the forearms. Then around 3 sets of 10-15 reps, hanging with good form and posture for 2-3 sec. From here i do a series of weighted hangs increasing weight until i reach my training weight. Now you are warm and I start the real workout. shooting for 10-sec on 8 reps 1:15-1:30 rest between.

I am hoping to try the first portion (rolling through 3sec hangs) this weekend for my warm up to see how well it works.

Warming up with a hangboard (when done correctly, it still blows my mind how many people can’t half crimp and just hang with bad form) helps save time and skin. I usually use my flash board when I’m at an area without warm ups, when skin is thin and needs to be saved for the proj, and when I’m in a hurry.

Anyway. Warm up looks like this : resistance band IYTs 3x 10 each. Ideally I squeeze a donut or grip trainer on the approach/drive, focusing on slowly working up to a half crimp held for 7 sec, r 3, x7. Then I’ll do inverted rows in the incut 18mm. And finally I’ll work my way up to doing half crimps for 10 sec. I don’t think there’s any strict time between rests/hangs. It’s all about listening to YOUR body. Also, once you have warmed up, generally you rest prior to pulling on the wall.

-Dono 

Donovan, that's great info.  Thanks for sharing!

Donovan Allen wrote: It’s all about listening to YOUR body.

Like most climbers I have had more tweaky fingers than I can remember. I have been using a hangboard to warm up since about a year now and haven't taped up my fingers once. I could not fathom not using it to warm up. At least for me, it would be welcoming an injury.

The way I warm up is how I would recommend: intuitively. While you are warming up constantly ask yourself: "Could I try and crimp my absolute hardest with no chance of injury?" Same goes for the rest of your body too, especially shoulders if your are injury prone there.

I've done similar routines to Donovan, but I'm using my foot against the cord on a tension block and only one hand. I found this easier to set up when out climbing than doing body weight. As a bonus you get the posterior chain firing at the same time.

I find using the 7mm incut on the older tension block really gets me fired back for small crimps when I'm taking long breaks between goes on hard (for me) sport. Bouldering in the winter I like it if my hands have gotten cold also. 

I see you changed the title after I posted and I'm a little confused. Do you think it makes a difference where the hangboard is located? I do the same warmup inside and outside   

Jer wrote: I see you changed the title after I posted and I'm a little confused. Do you think it makes a difference where the hangboard is located? I do the same warmup inside and outside   

No, I didn't.  The location matters because I want to warm up at the crag instead of in a gym or at home and then drive an hour to climb.  I did appreciate the link, nonetheless.

I use a Tension Flashboard.  I’ll usually first do an easy warmup route or two just to get big muscle warm.  Then, I’ll do a strict half-crimp repeater set (7:3x6) with feet on the wall (board is usually hanging from a low bolt - I bring a daisy chain to adjust height as needed).  I rest a bit, then go by feel doing various body weight 7-10 second hangs, resting as needed, using whatever grips the route I’m working calls for.  I’ll rest another bit after that then get on the project...  I’m still perfecting this sequence but I definitely feel much more ready to pull hard, especially if the warmup routes at a crag don’t have small/similar holds as the route I’m working on.