Where to pack tent in backpack for mountaineering...

I have 15 years of 3-season backpacking experience, but mountaineering is new to me.  On a backpacking trip, when its time to pack up camp and move on, I'm able to lay things out on rocks, pack up the tent (usually the heaviest item in my kit), put the tent all the way in the bottom of the pack, then put all my other gear inside (on top of the tent).

When mountaineering at high altitudes on snow (and potential high winds), I don't see that as a reliable option.  I did a couple winter trips in Utah this last winter, and to keep things from getting wet, I packed up everything inside of my tent and put it in my pack, so that the very last thing that needed to be put away was the tent.  This also prevents loose items from being around the camp site (should there be wind) - things were either in the tent or in my pack.

I'm using a Hilleberg Nammatj 2 for Rainier (the guide service requires a double-walled tent), so it's definitely the heaviest single item in the pack.  How do you all manage this situation?  If I put it in as the last item, my pack will be top-heavy.  My pack (an Osprey Xenith 105) does have the "sleeping bag compartment" in the bottom (with a separate zipper for access), so I can pack it that way, but having that separate compartment in the bottom (versus undoing the straps and letting it be one giant "sack") does reduce capacity because there are nooks and crannies that don't get filled.  Plus, most mountaineering/alpine packs don't have that "sleeping bag compartment" (my Black Diamond Mission 75 and the rest of my alpine packs don't).  

So for those whose pack doesn't have that compartment, how do you pack up camp, and where in your pack does your tent go?

EDIT: I realize that some people are using ultralight and compact single-walled tents like BD Firstlight, MSR Advance Pro 2, etc, that could be stuffed on top and not result in a top-heavy pack.  But many people use Hillebergs, and the Nammatj 2 is the pretty much the most compact and lightest in their black-label line.

Double walled, spit up the tent body/fly/stakes/poles. Get a bag for each and stuff your components inside, then strap it under the brain or to the side using compression straps. 

Unfortunately splitting up the tent body doesn’t work with a Hilleberg. The tent body and fly are all one unit. This makes for a super quick and easy setup, but the downside is you can’t really split up the weight and bulk between partners as easily.

The tent body/fly, even when packed and compressed with a compression sack is pretty bulky. 

Bring a groundsheet, you'll want one to help keep your tent bottom off the snow anyway, and lay your stuff on your groundsheet and pack that last.  It keeps everything off the snow.  Rainier specific, if the weather is miserable/blowing you likely aren't going anywhere or are headed down, unless you're just a sucker for punishement.

Ryan Gardner wrote: Unfortunately splitting up the tent body doesn’t work with a Hilleberg. The tent body and fly are all one unit. This makes for a super quick and easy setup, but the downside is you can’t really split up the weight and bulk between partners as easily.

The tent body/fly, even when packed and compressed with a compression sack is pretty bulky. 

Tent & assted not needed heavy shit on bottom; couple compactor trash bags for extra stuff that can’t get wet on top....that’s what I use in any event.

+1 for heavy duty, durable, large trash bag.

1. Toss things that gotta stay dry in trash bag.
2. Pack up tent, heavy stuff, other wet items, etc. and put in bottom of pack.
3. Put trash bag of stuff into pack; reshuffle items accordingly.
4. Twist trash bag until air tight and sealed and stuff excess down side of pack.
5. Climb on.

Put the tent in/near the bottom of your bag.  99% chance you're not packing up on Rainier is a ferocious storm.  Even if you are, there's not a lot of "stuff", or there shouldn't be; just hold your other junk to one side of the pack and slide the tent "tube" into the other side.  Sleeping bag should be down there too (basically, all the stuff you won't need to access on route).

Hilleberg Nammatj 2 and Xenith 105 are mega big/heavy for Rainier.  Are you sure that's all necessary?  If you have a Mission 75, why not use that?

If your tent isn't separable between 2 people, you can easily still share the bulk of overall gear by having your partner carry the stove, rope, protection, etc.

As far as why I’m carrying a Xenith 105 and a Nammatj 2... the guide service’s gear list (Alpine Ascents) requires things like insulated pants, huge parka, double-walled tent, etc - lots of things that I can’t imagine I’ll need but are required nonetheless. It’s possible that at gear check they say we don’t need certain things, but I’ve been told to come with everything. I’ve purchased the smallest and lightest of pretty much everything on that list, and I can’t fit it in anything smaller than 105L.

We also carry our own stove and tent because this course is designed to teach us to be self-sufficient - it’s not intended to be just a “haul me up the mountain” trip.

It’s 6 days on Baker and 4 on Rainier up the Kautz Route. 

If I was doing this trip on my own, I’d be way lighter and more nimble. That being said, I’m not qualified to do this trip on my own, so I have to follow their rules. 

Hey Ryan,

I understand your dilemma and respect that you need to do what your guide has asked for.  Hopefully they will be practical when packing for the actual trip, and they will let you leave behind redundant gear like extra stoves, puffy pants, etc.  Are you sharing gear with another person on the trip?  It seems like you ought to be sharing a tent, stove, pot, etc. with at least 1 other person.  That should help with your gear load.

The reality is that walking uphill with a 60 pound pack on is just "not that fun" regardless of your level of fitness, and given that you're paying a bunch of money for this experience it's worth doing as much as possible to make it as positive as possible.

If you have any specific questions or want to review your gear list, let me know.

Good luck!

Ryan Gardner wrote: As far as why I’m carrying a Xenith 105 and a Nammatj 2... the guide service’s gear list (Alpine Ascents) requires things like insulated pants, huge parka, double-walled tent, etc - lots of things that I can’t imagine I’ll need but are required nonetheless. It’s possible that at gear check they say we don’t need certain things, but I’ve been told to come with everything. I’ve purchased the smallest and lightest of pretty much everything on that list, and I can’t fit it in anything smaller than 105L.

We also carry our own stove and tent because this course is designed to teach us to be self-sufficient - it’s not intended to be just a “haul me up the mountain” trip.

It’s 6 days on Baker and 4 on Rainier up the Kautz Route.

If I was doing this trip on my own, I’d be way lighter and more nimble. That being said, I’m not qualified to do this trip on my own, so I have to follow their rules. 

Sounds like you have never been on Mt. Rainier.

However you pack, keep extra attention on items strapped to the outside.  I had a top-brand expedition pack, relatively new, blow out a sewn-on strap early on the way up Denali -- luckily happening in camp, and nothing went flying down the hill or into a crevasse.

On other 'big' trips, I've seen a dropped canteen (could have been leashed) slide far beyond possible retrieval, a thermarest roll 1000' down (luckily retrieved 2 days later, but after uncomfortable and chilly high camp nights before and after a strenuous summit), and a stuffed bag go even further -- yet amazingly retrieved that evening, though requiring a night back at the lower camp luckily nearby.

And good luck with weather and goals during your trips ahead!
-Peter

With all due respect I don't think this is really an issue that needs special attention. Make due with what you have for those few times the wind is ripping and the tent still goes in the bottom of the pack. I got benighted on the summit of Rainier due to extreme winds and whiteout, after coming up the Kautz. You can see in the picture from the next morning that the tent is still deformed from wind, and we used pickets, wands, axes, etc to keep that and everything else from flying off the rim. It's alpine, you shouldn't have a lot of junk that can blow away. My hilleberg tent suffered damage on this trip, others would have failed. Keep it simple, and coordinate with your partners.

While in the tent put all your loose shit in stuff sacs and put in your pack. Toss your pack outside and exit the tent. Take down the tent. Remove stuff sacs and secure with your ice axe. Stuff tent into your pack followed by the stuff sacs. I should add that by using stuff sacs you keep yer stuff more organized and depending on what is them they make a pillow.

So many experts.  So little experience.