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Bouldering on Mt. Wachusett

Original Post
Daniel Mordarski · · Boylston, MA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Hey there,

I know there aren't a ton of boulder routes on Mt. Wachusett, but I'm just transitioning to outdoor climbing and this is a super easy area for me to get to (I usually hike it several times per week regardless). Anyone interested in meeting up sometime to go and check out a few routes? Currently projecting V4-V5 at CRG Worcester.

Let me know!

Also down to check out other bouldering areas in Central MA as well...

-Dan

lucander · · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 260

You’ll find a lot more at Crow Hill/Leominster State Forest

Daniel Mordarski · · Boylston, MA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

For sure - haven't had a chance to check it out yet. Like I said though I'm at Wachusett pretty regularly so it's just easy for me.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I haven't heard of any bouldering on Wachusett, but given the existence of a fair amount of rock in the general area it surely won't surprise me if you find some worthwhile opportunities. Still, the Crow Hill area is quite close to Wachusett and does have a reasonable number of developed problems--and a good likelihood of running into other climbers to point them out, so it may be worth your while to expand your hiking circuit and check out Crow (there are good trails there as well). A couple of weeks ago I climbed at Redemption Crag which is just a short drive east on 140 from the Wachusett ski area entrance road. You park at the Redemption Rock historic site (a few possible problems there but best not to use chalk or leave any other traces) and follow the Mid-State Trail across 140 and up the hill a short ways. Just before the 'main' crag there is a sign post to a glacial erratic boulder that has a few problems, and other problems are possible along the base of the main crag and nearby. Continuing uphill on the trail you will eventually reach Crow Hill itself, though it is more directly reached from a lot  on the left a mile or so north on Route 31.

JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

There is a fairly large, steep boulding wall right off the auto road on Wachusett. A few established hard problems. Redemption Crag is a fun half day with good rock and some fun trad leads. Couple good boulder problems in the woods too (more than the glacial erratic). 

Daniel Mordarski · · Boylston, MA · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Awesome guys - thanks for the input!

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

I cleaned and did the left arete next to the road from a sit many years ago, it is literally 20 feet from the road.  Called it True Grit.  Never went back to do the lines to the right but I'm sure they are very good. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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