Best technical stemming dihedrals in CO
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I recently got back from doing the Original Route on Rainbow Wall and realized how much I love that style, the Red Dihedrals were sooo good. I started thinking about ones in colorado and can't think of that many. 2nd pitch of Ces't La Vie, Over the Hill/Ariel Book, Not my Cross to bear, 3rd pitch of Wunch's, Outer Space, and a few others come to mind. Hayden Kennedy's Kokanee Corner looks absolutely amazing. Anyone know any good climbs of this style, preferably in the 12 and 13 range (but I'd love to hear about any grade) that are in or close to CO? |
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A bit more of a corner but Smokin Stems in Piedra Canyon is lot's of fun. Especially the last 10 feet. |
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Great send in Vegas Max. Impressive to follow. Always wanted to check this puppy out, although closed until July - mountainproject.com/route/1…;query=red%20dihe&search=1&type=route |
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Rampart Rage in Devils head is pretty rad. |
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Max Manson wrote: I recently got back from doing the Original Route on Rainbow Wall and realized how much I love that style, the Red Dihedrals were sooo good. I started thinking about ones in colorado and can't think of that many. 2nd pitch of Ces't La Vie, Over the Hill/Ariel Book, Not my Cross to bear, 3rd pitch of Wunch's, Outer Space, and a few others come to mind. Hayden Kennedy's Kokanee Corner looks absolutely amazing. Anyone know any good climbs of this style, preferably in the 12 and 13 range (but I'd love to hear about any grade) that are in or close to CO? New Mutant in Vedauwoo, which was put up by the Devils Tower stemming master Todd Skinner. Old school 12c. It is flared hands and fingers/crimpingTheEdgeOfTheCrack (aka 'tips'), and the key to the crux is technical stemming. It is real hard 5.13 if you try it without stemming/shoulder scums btw. Todd Skinner on New Mutant |
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Not my cross to bear in Penitente is awesome, if easier and bolted. |
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The Bircheff-Williams on Middle Cathedral in Yosemite was always a classic. |
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Hey Max! I certainly haven't done it, but looking up at Scary Canary, it seems like it might fit the bill. Have you done Side Wall? You'd skate it as your warm up, but be careful with protection on the first half of the pitch! (Or use Practice Wall to hang a rope on the first half, then continue into Side Wall corner above, a la Adam Brink beta.) I assume you've done Vertigo a billion times, but there's a nice section of corner below the roof on that, as well. Cheers! |
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These look super cool! Thanks for all the great reccomenedations! Excited to check them out |
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Linking Sidewall pitches 1 and 2 is sweet (5.11R). False Prophet is an amazing corner (5.11+R). If you link it with Unbroken Chain it is even harder and more dangerous. Arial Book is easier but still super proud (5.11-). Englishman's Home to Nobody's Home is stunning and has lots of good dihedral climbing in the first half (5.12 with good runouts). And then there is the one I want to go do with you, Red Dihedral! |
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I spent most of January of this year on the stigmata at Mickey Mouse Wall which shares the start/crux of the red dihedral. The red dihedral is a fairly serious undertaking with several punchy sections between gear but is THE most striking corner in the front range. Morning shade til about 1pm, not recommended til colder months. The stigmata is technically harder then red dihedral but safer as it is acceptable to preplace the stem crux and then bolted the whole way, although I’ve heard of climbers claiming ascents of the red dihedral preplacing the initial crux as well. Aside from this, Wendego at rincon is amazing, scary canary is great as well. Lots of great corner pitches on the diamond. If you want to pay a small fine Tague yer time in the Black also has some of the better corners I’ve tried in the state. Have fun |
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Read what Corey wrote if you want 5 star sustained stemming pitches. Most of the others are a few moves of stemming and mostly face climbing. Then there is the Fiend. |
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Ah the fiend! Still need to go try that thing |
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Wow! The Fiend looks pretty amazing! |
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People's Choice and Persistent Vegetative State (both in Clear Creek Canyon) are both really fun, albeit only 5.10a and bolted. |
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michalm wrote: Read what Corey wrote if you want 5 star sustained stemming pitches. Most of the others are a few moves of stemming and mostly face climbing. Then there is the Fiend. Correct me if I'm wrong, but hasn't the fiend only seen one repeat since its FA in the 80s? Carlo Traversi wrote that he thought it was harder than most 5.14s he's done. I also remember reading that someone fully dislocated their knee on one of the drop knees. |
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Jason Giblin wrote: While I can't corroborate the claim of a single repeat, I do know that my two friends who climb this hard (I sure as fuck don't) do believe this climb is rather (perhaps significantly) harder than its grade suggests. I once batman'd up it on a single ascender and that was far easier than climbing it :P. |
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Red dihedral . Up at the terrain/mickey mouse wall |