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Best technical stemming dihedrals in CO

Original Post
Max Manson · · Superior, CO and Stanford, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 491

I recently got back from doing the Original Route on Rainbow Wall and realized how much I love that style, the Red Dihedrals were sooo good. I started thinking about ones in colorado and can't think of that many. 2nd pitch of Ces't La Vie, Over the Hill/Ariel Book, Not my Cross to bear, 3rd pitch of Wunch's, Outer Space, and a few others come to mind. Hayden Kennedy's Kokanee Corner looks absolutely amazing.  Anyone know any good climbs of this style, preferably in the 12 and 13 range (but I'd love to hear about any grade) that are in or close to CO?

Parachute Adams · · At the end of the line · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

A bit more of a corner but Smokin Stems in Piedra Canyon is lot's of fun. Especially the last 10 feet.

Peter B · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Great send in Vegas Max.  Impressive to follow.  Always wanted to check this puppy out, although closed until July - mountainproject.com/route/1…;query=red%20dihe&search=1&type=route 

Todd R · · Vansion · Joined May 2014 · Points: 56

Rampart Rage in Devils head is pretty rad.

Climb of the Century? Eldo.

Crux Pitch of Cloak and Dagger. The Black. 

JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,100
Max Manson wrote: I recently got back from doing the Original Route on Rainbow Wall and realized how much I love that style, the Red Dihedrals were sooo good. I started thinking about ones in colorado and can't think of that many. 2nd pitch of Ces't La Vie, Over the Hill/Ariel Book, Not my Cross to bear, 3rd pitch of Wunch's, Outer Space, and a few others come to mind. Hayden Kennedy's Kokanee Corner looks absolutely amazing.  Anyone know any good climbs of this style, preferably in the 12 and 13 range (but I'd love to hear about any grade) that are in or close to CO?

New Mutant in Vedauwoo, which was put up by the Devils Tower stemming master Todd Skinner. Old school 12c. It is flared hands and fingers/crimpingTheEdgeOfTheCrack (aka 'tips'), and the key to the crux is technical stemming. It is real hard 5.13 if you try it without stemming/shoulder scums btw.

Todd Skinner on New Mutant
George Foster · · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 12

Not my cross to bear in Penitente is awesome, if easier and bolted.

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

The Bircheff-Williams on Middle Cathedral in Yosemite was always a classic.
On Lumpy Ridge, Howling at the Wind, Corner Pump Station and Romulan Territory.
Boulder Canyon has Cosmosis

Garth Sundem · · Louisville, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

Hey Max! I certainly haven't done it, but looking up at Scary Canary, it seems like it might fit the bill. Have you done Side Wall? You'd skate it as your warm up, but be careful with protection on the first half of the pitch! (Or use Practice Wall to hang a rope on the first half, then continue into Side Wall corner above, a la Adam Brink beta.) I assume you've done Vertigo a billion times, but there's a nice section of corner below the roof on that, as well. Cheers!

Max Manson · · Superior, CO and Stanford, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 491

These look super cool! Thanks for all the great reccomenedations! Excited to check them out

Adam Brink · · trying to get to Sardinia · Joined Mar 2001 · Points: 610

Linking Sidewall pitches 1 and 2 is sweet (5.11R). False Prophet is an amazing corner (5.11+R). If you link it with Unbroken Chain it is even harder and more dangerous. Arial Book is easier but still super proud (5.11-). Englishman's Home to Nobody's Home is stunning and has lots of good dihedral climbing in the first half (5.12 with good runouts). And then there is the one I want to go do with you, Red Dihedral! 

Corey Flynn · · Beattyvillain · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 170

I spent most of January of this year on the stigmata at Mickey Mouse Wall which shares the start/crux of the red dihedral. The red dihedral is a fairly serious undertaking with several punchy sections between gear but is THE most striking corner in the front range. Morning shade til about 1pm, not recommended til colder months. The stigmata is technically harder then red dihedral but safer as it is acceptable to preplace the stem crux and then bolted the whole way, although I’ve heard of climbers claiming ascents of the red dihedral preplacing the initial crux as well. Aside from this, Wendego at rincon is amazing, scary canary is great as well. Lots of great corner pitches on the diamond. If you want to pay a small fine Tague yer time in the Black also has some of the better corners I’ve tried in the state. Have fun

michalm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 824

Read what Corey wrote if you want 5 star sustained stemming pitches. Most of the others are a few moves of stemming and mostly face climbing. Then there is the Fiend.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105848243/the-fiend
Otherwise, go to Devil's tower in September.

Corey Flynn · · Beattyvillain · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 170

Ah the fiend! Still need to go try that thing

Max Manson · · Superior, CO and Stanford, CA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 491

Wow! The Fiend looks pretty amazing!

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424
plantmandan · · Rice Lake, WI · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 95

People's Choice and Persistent Vegetative State (both in Clear Creek Canyon) are both really fun, albeit only 5.10a and bolted.

Central Corner (Skinner Mountain, South Platte) is another fun one, also only 5.10a

  

Jason Giblin · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 75
michalm wrote: Read what Corey wrote if you want 5 star sustained stemming pitches. Most of the others are a few moves of stemming and mostly face climbing. Then there is the Fiend.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105848243/the-fiend
Otherwise, go to Devil's tower in September.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but hasn't the fiend only seen one repeat since its FA in the 80s? Carlo Traversi wrote that he thought it was harder than most 5.14s he's done. I also remember reading that someone fully dislocated their knee on one of the drop knees. 

Todd R · · Vansion · Joined May 2014 · Points: 56
Jason Giblin wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but hasn't the fiend only seen one repeat since its FA in the 80s? Carlo Traversi wrote that he thought it was harder than most 5.14s he's done. I also remember reading that someone fully dislocated their knee on one of the drop knees. 

While I can't corroborate the claim of a single repeat, I do know that my two friends who climb this hard (I sure as fuck don't) do believe this climb is rather (perhaps significantly) harder than its grade suggests. I once batman'd up it on a single ascender and that was far easier than climbing it :P.   

Stonebhikku · · boulder, co · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 221

Red dihedral . Up at the terrain/mickey mouse wall

El Camino real up in lumpy

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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