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Are crack gloves cheating?

Original Post
Augustine McDermott · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

I’m getting more into crack climbing, and am currently just using tape. I’ve seen crack gloves all over the place, and 1. Is there an ethics debate over it and 2. Are they worth it?

David A · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 405

1. Maybe

2. No, the debate is not worth it.

Use em or don't. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Crack gloves are more convenient to use than tape, although I think tape works just as well to protect the backs of my hands.

I don't really care whether people think it's "cheating."

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274

your rope is cheating...

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Apparel, rope and gear is cheating; so dumb question. 

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

1. Yes

2. I love them

Parachute Adams · · At the end of the line · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

If tape is legit and you think gloves are cheating then you should give up your shoes and start taping your feet. 

Dan Jay · · New Westminster, BC · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

1. Probably a tad bit cheating. I definitely notice an advantage from the rubber on them, especially in damp cracks

2. Yes 100% I have very thin skin on the back of my hands thank to a skin condition when I was younger so they're lifesavers and save a ton of time since I don't have to tape up everytime I go crack climbing.

Marc-Olivier Chabot · · Gatineau, QC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 440

1. No
2. Yes. It's easyer and faster to put and remove than tape. Very convenient. 

Darin Berdinka · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 372

10+ years ago they were definitely cheating and everyone would laugh at you.     Somehow they've suddenly become common and even cool.   No clue why the change.

Travis S · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 70

Am I the only one who does all climbs buck naked to avoid any cheating? I thought this was common amongst the climbing community 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Ethics-schmethics.   Careful though, it’s “gateway” gear to dry tooling...

Nut Tool · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

One pair of crack gloves > a full trash bag of used tape in the landfill. 

JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,100

1) No. The debate was won a long time ago: sticky rubber on the back of the hand is cheating.

2) No, because every climb you do with them needs an asterisk.

In all seriousness though, if you are an occasional crack climber, they will likely make the experience more enjoyable. One downside to them (and the reason people who really enjoy crack climbing don't typically use them) is they will make any kind of tight or technical hand jam fit worse (as well as remove all sensitivity), and they will provide no thumb protection for fists and stacking. Lastly, they will squirm around on your hands, which is annoying and also tends to unsettle the jams.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424

They certainly make jamming more comfortable, but they wiggle around so much, I stopped using them.

Cornelius Sale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

No one cares about the landfills filling up with tape after a trip to IC?  I for one care too much about the environment to buy rolls of disposable tape.

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

On long, difficult crack climbs I prefer taping.  If the crack, or crack sections are short, then gloves.  Haven't found any gloves that are as good as a good tape job.

Wilburn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 386

The only debate about crack gloves is on Mountain Project. Crack gloves are absolutely worth it if they fit you.

Gloves are more sustainable and I prefer them to tape IF I can get the fit right. Tape does have its place since you can customize the thickness of your tape glove. 

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262

Plenty of threads on this. They are cheating unless your old and have old man/women skin, then its fine.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

Crack gloves are awesome. Especially for hairy guys and for climbs with a mixture of different kinds of climbing where you might want to protect for just one pitch. Ie. El Whampo in Tahquitz or something like that. 

Math Bert · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 90

In climbing, there's no such thing as cheating, only lying.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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