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Smallest quicklink for bailing

Original Post
Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Just pulled this off a route that someone must have used to bail with. Looked inadequate to me when used biners can be picked so cheaply. Anyone know what the “WLL 0.20t” means as far as strength? How low will you go?            P.S. It’s 2” long, 1/4” material, (or less). It is not stainless.

Nick Woodman · · Saco, ME · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 11

WLL 0.2T means it's rated for 400 lbs working load limit. It probably has a mean breaking force of 2000 lbs, assuming the manufacturer has the WLL at 1/5 MBF. But yes, imo it's silly to bail off quicklinks when carabiners are so easily had. The story I've been told is that people defer to bail links because it was apparently common practice to carry quicklinks so you could replace worn out or missing links at rap stations. Now it's just a pain for someone else climbing the route. 

ducks go quack · · Seattle · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

CAMP makes tiny quick links that are rated. Worth checking out if you're really pushing for weight savings...but why not just take a spare carabiner?

Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

Cos you can get a climbing manufacturer quick link for 2 bucks. Probs can get some carabiners around this price too. But I always carry a couple quick links.

Racechinees . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

It's not about the price of things you leave; it's about what others need to do to remove it. 

Mike Womack · · Orcutt, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,015

Use old carabiners instead of quicklinks for protection bolts! Either pick up a 5$ one and set it aside or find an old oval. Try to only use quicklinks at rap stations.   

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

I don't have a problem clipping a bolt that has a quicklink on it. The trouble is with removal? Or with it being less useful booty?

B DeMers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 46
F loyd wrote: I don't have a problem clipping a bolt that has a quicklink on it. The trouble is with removal? Or with it being less useful booty?

The trouble is with removal. After you lock them and once dirt and water get in there you need a wrench to take it off

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984
B DeMers wrote:

The trouble is with removal. After you lock them and once dirt and water get in there you need a wrench to take it off

Or a saw if the quick link is rusted shut. 

Be considerate of your fellow climbers and use a biner. 
Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

That thing is bomber for bailing.  I don't use quick links for bailing though.  I use non locker carabiner, the older the better.  As to the quick link, if I do you quick links I just do them finger tight so they can be removed without a wrench.  

Alexander Stathis · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 657
Anonymous wrote: Be considerate of others, leave a box wrench on all your bail quicklinks. Like this:

I want this on a T-shirt. 

Jack Pain · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10
Kevin Mokracek wrote: That thing is bomber for bailing.  I don't use quick links for bailing though.  I use non locker carabiner, the older the better.  As to the quick link, if I do you quick links I just do them finger tight so they can be removed without a wrench.  

Same. 

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Was that at Lemon? The rock in the background kinda looks like lemon but I heard that it was still snowed in as of a week or so ago. It's hard to tell its size because of the lack of scale but quicklinks tend to be a lot stronger than they look, unless they are poor quality links (which means poor QC so it could be bomber or it could be really bad).

The quicklinks from climbing manufacturers tend to have much better quality control and are pretty damn bomber, so if you can find a good deal on them then that's the way to go. But as mentioned up thread, it is generally poor etiquette to bail off a quicklink left on a bolt part way up a sport route. You can often find old biners in bulk for sale here on MP and can get a 2 or 3 dollar bail biner, which is hard to beat price-wise. Or if you climb long enough, you might find yourself with a stash of bail biners you've bootied and so you can just use those. 

Peter J · · Bishop · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 647

please bail off a carabiner! quicklinks are stupid and a PITA, I have bootied too many and have nothing to do with them

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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